Fixed a friend's 1990 240 whose heater valve had failed, causing it to have full heat continuously. I looked around for a retrofit kit and found a couple of them, one of which was no longer available as a kit.

I did find reference to a Wagonmeister kit for $160 and another kit was no longer for sale. The website EuroPartsHouse.com is no longer an active domain, but there is still on old YouTube video which shows a kit he apparently once sold and no longer does. So I did some digging and found the exact same valve he used, and sourced a couple of short 90 degree elbow heater hose sections, heater hose couplings aka nipples, clamps, and made my own kit like his. You can see it all adds up to about $37.75 and that included 2 of the heater hose couplings which came in a 2 pack and a 12 pack of hose clamps which I only needed 4.

Valve: Universal Air Conditioner part number HV 2211C currently $14.98 on Amazon
Heater Hose Connector 5/8" x 5/8" Hose Barb straight fittings approx 3" total length (2 pack) currently $6.98 on Amazon
Heater hose 90 degree: Gates 20338 Molded Coolant Hose currently $6.79 on Amazon
Hose clamps #8 5/8" to 1" adjustable I bought a 12 pack of stainless steel from Amazon for $8.99

I cut one end shorter on the Gates hose to match the 90 degree hose in the first picture below. I didn't take a video just a few pictures. I did not purchase nor install the Wagonmeister kit, because of the cost, but probably the most helpful video for me was the following title on YouTube for installing the Wagonmeister kit. General information including seeing the removal of the covers and removing the old valve were very helpful:

YouTube video title not a link: Wagonmeister Volvo 240 Heater Core Valve Replacement: Review and Installation Instructions

I drained the antifreeze from the car which minimized the amount of antifreeze I had to deal with when I disconnected the heater hoses from the old valve. The most tedious parts of the job were getting the old valve out and fixing the heater control cable to the new valve, bending the end of the cable so that it wraps around the pin on the replacement valve and is the correct length. Now that I've done one, I could do another one in about 2 hours rather than almost 4 hours. I had to find something to drain the coolant into, to keep it and put it back afterward. Then I had to burp the air out of the system after I put the coolant back in at the end. Anyway, it's a very satisfying job once you're done.

As mentioned, the following kit for which I bought basically the same parts to make my own kit, is no longer available and this website no longer exists:



See descriptions in the picture below.


Bent the end of the cable and slid it over the pin, keeping the cable the correct length so that when the heater control in the car is pushed to cold, the heater valve is fully OFF/closed.



Another view closer in shows "ON" displayed on the valve; the valve is in the OFF/Closed position with the word "OFF" hidden behind the pin with the cable wrapped around it.

 

Hey, thanks for writing this up! I know there may be a time in the future that many of us are looking for how to do this. I daily drive my 240, so having resources available to do it yourself can be a make it or break it on a budget.

 

Great how-to on the heater valve for us old DIYers. Never hurts to save the dough-re-me!