I have a 1990 240DL sedan. The windshield washer is not working. The wipers work (I've replaced the wiper motor twice in the last 6 years). Checked the fuse(s) (Fuse #2 according to the list inside the fuse compartment cover). Opened the hood and found what I'm pretty sure is the washer motor (drivers side engine compartment right up next to the firewall with a few hoses coming off of it and a connector with 3 wires). I pulled the connector and had my son power on the ignition and hit the washer switch. I tried all combinations of wires to test with a Voltmeter and didn't get any power at the connector.

1) am I looking at the correct unit (this is in fact the washer motor, right?)
2) why are there 3 wires going to it?
3) Which is Positive and which wire is negative for testing purposes?
4) If I'm not getting power at the connector, what's my next step?
is there a relay or fuse somewhere else?
Can it be the switch itself on the steering column and how to test that?

THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY HELP!!!!!

 

Washer Pumps & Squirter Nozzles

The washer pump motor has only two wires connected.

 

Volvo's online "1990 240DL owner's manual" seems to think it's located under the coolant reservoir, over by the right fender, just behind the headlight...
https://www.customers.volvocars.com/...0240_04.htm#18

Silly question: you sure you're not looking at the brake fluid reservoir?

 

the washer pump should be right in front the washer bottle up behind the right headlight, like...

 

Thanks you guys for the "new info"! I'm on the road until May 11th but it seems that what I was looking at was NOT the washer motor! I'll get a picture of what I was looking at just for ha-ha's and post it when I get home and will also take a look at the REAL washer motor, test for power, continuity, etc. Is it a 12volt motor? Just to be safe. . .I was going to connect it to 12v to see if the motor was good. THANKS!

 

yes, its a 12V motor.

you should also see a 1/4" hose that runs fromm the washer tank to the pump, then another from the pump, through the passenger side wheel well, up the passenger size hood hinge to a T that goes to the two squirters.

my 87 240 doesn't have any pump-like things on the firewall on the driver side that I can see, just the brake master cylinder/booster thing, the throttle cable, and so forth. but I don't think the 87 has an EGR valve, and I know the EGR system has a vacuum controller thing that looks a bit like a motor and is on the left somewhere (my 92 740 has it forward of the driver side wheel well, behind the battery). on the PASSENGER side of the firewall there's a motor thing, but I thought that was the wiper motor. it has like 4 wires and no vacuum plumbing.

 

These pumps don't have a lot of torque so any calcification on the pump mechanism and the pump will not work. There's not much to them. You can remove the bottom plate and clean out the little pump gears, put it back together and see what happen.

Ron J

 

silly me, that motor-thing on the passenger side of the firewall is the WIPER motor (I'm used to these not hanging out in the engine compartment)

 

Hey Pierce and Ron: REALLY appreciate the feedback and for confirming that the motor is in fact 12v and also to possibly take a look for calcification. If I'm getting juice at the pump then I'll take a look at the pump but seems like the pumps are pretty cheap anyway.

I can verify that the motor on the passenger side of the firewall is in fact the wiper motor. Like I said earlier, I've replaced that twice in the last 6 years or so (aftermarket/rebuilds). I look forward to getting home and finding out exactly what I WAS looking at thinking it was a washer motor!

Thanks again and I'll let post what I find out asap.

 

I have the same issue and found the fault is with the connector that goes into the top of the washer pump. My 240 is 23 yrs old and the cushions around each of the two connectors inside the grey plastic part were all crumbled from age and so preventing a good connection. I'm looking now for a replacement of the connector, that grey plastic piece at the head of the two wires containing the two connectors or will just work at making them tighter.
I know this is the solution because the pump works when I put the connectors in place - but the pump won't work after some driving which caused them to loosen up again.

,

 

All those gray connectors are is added security from disconnection. Within the gray connectors are simple bullet connections. There is a hinge on one side of the gray connectors that after opening, the wires can be removed and connected directly. Toss the degraded gray portions until you source new.