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It is hard to start when cold. It starts then dies quite quickly. The current technique for starting is a little throttle held constantly while turning it over. The engine will start and die three times before running constantly. Holding it at about 2-3000 rpm while warming up and then it is fine. Any suggestions?
milage is is unknown as the motor is sitting in a different car than the one it was born in. As far as I know it is a B21 motor (I don’t know how much information that imparts) 2.0l, the engine number is covered up making it hard to read
The ambient temperature at the moment is around 15 degrees Celsius. If it helps I can take a photo of the actual engine itself.
Is this KE-Jetronics, aka CIS-E fuel injection ? B21's were only used the first few years of 240s, Starting about 1983, they used LH II, then LH 2.2, then in 1989 LH 2.4 up til the end of production in 1993.
2.0L would be a B20 motor, from a 144 or something, with pushrods, instead of SOHC.
if the motor is a transplant from a different year car, then noone is going to be able to help you remotely as there's just way too many variables. each of those different fuel injection systems has a different way of managing idle and cold start enrichment. and many B20 engines predated FI and used carbs instead, so now we're getting into chokes and the like.
ok, that looks a B21 engine (2.1L most likely), with KE-Jetronics injection, aka CIS-E. these are pre-1982....
there is a cold start injector in the middle between the intake runners 2 and 3, this helps the engine start when its cold.
right above (in your top view picture) said cold start injector is a broken off vacuum hose. with this open, the engine is going to have an awful idle.
ok, that looks a B21 engine (2.1L most likely), with KE-Jetronics injection, aka CIS-E. these are pre-1982....
there is a cold start injector in the middle between the intake runners 2 and 3, this helps the engine start when its cold.
right above (in your top view picture) said cold start injector is a broken off vacuum hose. with this open, the engine is going to have an awful idle.
LEGEND!! Thank you sooooo much! I am thoroughly impressed you have made my weekend!!
also, more vertical and to the photo's left of the cold start injector, there's an air valve thats used for idle management. I've never worked on one of thse, so my knowlege is entirely theoretical.
there *used* to be a website, k-jet.org, that was full of useful info on these older engines, but sadly, its gone as of about 2 years ago, and worse, its now a junk re-director that tries to get you to install their search crap to hijack your browser.
it is in a ‘88 T3 Caravelle to be precise. Unfortunately the photo cheated a wee bit and that hose that looks like it just stops, disappears further down and connects to something else. I have had a look at the wiring and hoses in that area and everything seems to be as it should.
I have started looking for a mechanic now that works with older Volvo’s, this is a bit beyond me and this morning it took waaaaay too long to start. It fires into life, holds its rpms (with constant throttle), and then just dies.
I was just reading the manual and I had a couple of ideas. As far as I can see there are two systems that kick in on a cold start. The Cold start injector and the auxiliary air valve. Now the injector stops once the motor is running, only injecting extra fuel as long as the starter motor is on. If it was not operating properly I would have a hard time starting it at all. But the air valve is operated by a bi-metallic strip, slowly turning off as the motor warms up. If the strip stopped functioning then that might explain why I can get a little life in it, but once the extra fuel from the cold start injector stops it dies quickly.
Two things. Does this sound completely off? And if it is the strip in the Aux air valve, what would the fix be?
i can't help you there, I've never touched a CIS volvo. I've had CIS VW's and Mercedes, and only had to work on the Mercedes (the VWs were relatively new and ran flawlessly). The Mercedes has a proper idle air control valve and a computer that controls all the aux stuff, although it will run without the computer.
hmm, I do seem to remember reading, that aux air valve, there's two variants on it... one of them is a proper idle air control valve, the other is just a dumb thermotimer thing. but tahts all I remember.
well, I wouldn't replace anything without testing first.
unplug that air thing, hook up a test lamp across the two wires, and see if it gets power when you switch the engine on.... I think its function is to act like an idle boost...
if it doesnt't get power, then thats probably the problem, time to investigate the control circuit, which as you said probably involves some sort of thermoswitch.
if you do see power when the engine is on, then remove the valve, and use some jumper wires to apply power to the valves terminals and see if it opens/closes by blowing through it with a clean rubber hose....
i'm looking at the wiring diagram for a 1980 B21F CIS.... kinda confused, it appears to get power from the fuel pump relay, which would suggest its *always* powered if the engine is running., so maybe the thermoswitch is /inside/ the aux air valve?? AFAIK, the fuel pump relay is only on when the engine is actually turning over, and not just when its switched on (it probably comes on for about 1 second when you switch on the ignition, then shuts off again until the engine is cranked over).
10-10-2018, 12:31 PM
240 that won't idle on cold start
