Hi all, I'm working on getting my brothers newly acquired 242 Turbo to run after it has sat for a decade. The previous owner stated the fuel pump died so he parked the car. Anyway, while I have revived many other cars which sat for as much time if not longer than this one, I have never had a problem with low compression (luck?). I turned the motor over by hand, which turned easily. I did a compression test which came back with 55, 95, 10, 75. I soaked the cylinders with marvel, now I get 80, 110, 50, 100.

When cranking the motor over, it seems to lose compression after 6 rotations. After the Marvel soaking, this has not changed at all. It does not even want to start, not even a pop of sputter. I'm getting fuel and spark too. Is it time for new rings? Should I try soaking it again? Did the PO overheat it and burn the motor up, then lied about it?

Help is greatly appreciated.

 

Have you checked the timing belt to make sure it is spot on? A mis-set belt will cause those issues...

 

Sitting for years without gas or oil getting spread on the cylinder walls can lead to rust. If a valve was open and the humidity was high with varying temperatures, water can condensate on the cylinder walls and rust it. The owner may be perfectly truthful, it may have just deteriorated. It depends on how and where is was stored. I hope that's not the case, and since it turned over by hand it's less likely, but all it would take is on good crank from the starter to free it up again. I think swift is on the right idea. Along those same lines you can check valve lash.

 

ummm, if the timing belt is ok, you could try the soak thing again, but the change in compression from the first time, would lead me to think you will need to pull the head and check the valve seats, and possibly dismantle the head and perform a valve job. there are rubber spacers in the valve uint that have proably dried and shrink, thus the valves will not close completely so low compression. Also check the oil for antifreeze , could be bad head gasket or worse yet warped head.

 

Hi, I've encountered similar problems over the years. If left for exceptionally long periods of time the piston rings can sometimes shrink back into the piston ring groove and you lose compression. I'm not sure what "marvel" is, I assume some kind of lubricant????,,,, anyway, what I normally do is this, first take the plugs out ( I know you already have so just humour me) and spray a good load of Plus Gas or WD40 (a very light lubricating fluid) into each cylander and spin the engine for a while to clean off any surface rust on the cylanders, at the same time it will work itself into the piston ring grooves. Then get yourself some 20/50 motor oil, any old cheap crap will do, put some into a squirty type oil can and squirt a load of oil into the cylanders, loosely refit the spark plugs, just a couple of turns will do (dont connect the HT leads yet) and spin the engine again for about 10 seconds. Remove and clean the plugs, give each cylander about half a dozen squirts of oil again and refit the plugs and connect the HT leads. Give it about half throttle and spin the engine, and providing your rings aren't totally shot, that should start the engine. Obviously all this is assuming you have no other issues such as stuck valve's etc. If the engine does start DONT REV IT UP or you'll break the piston rings, just let it run at a slightly fast idle, say about 1,200 rpm until the engine is fully warm, dont switch off yet, have a visual check for any leaks, if all ok take the car for a VERY gentle drive, about 15 minutes would be good and keep the revs under 2,500 rpm. All going well that should free the piston rings and restore compression. If it does start using this method you will get an enormous cloud of white smoke from the exhaust, that is quite normal and should clear in a minute or two, it's just the 20/50 oil burning off.

 

You are correct sir, but with a twist. I pulled the timing cover and discovered a huge vacated mud dauber colony. I cleaned a nests out, reset the timing and it happened again. I went back to inspect the gears and discovered that hardened mud was caked in a couple of the grooves. Cleaned them thoroughly, reset the timing yet again, and she fired right up.

Never seen that before, but will check any future dormant cars from now on, especially on cars with interference motors. Glad it was a Volvo and not a Honda!

This site is awesome! I really appreciate the help!

 

now thats a cool story, glad you got it sorted,,, I wonder if Snap-On make a tool for removing mud dauber's,,,,,,,

 

Non-Texans can not grasp just how big Texas mud daubers are! Let's just say they need FAA clearance to land!. I'd give serious thought to replacing the T belt and adjuster at this point. Jumping time can't be good for the teeth of the belt.

 

Oh...for clarification Marvel Mystery Oil is just that. Originally sold as a top end lube, it can be added to the oil, gasoline, transmission etc. Also makes a good air tool lube...
Mud daubers and their domeciles..................

I've hit their "daubings" with a lawn mower and had them take off like a rocket...undamaged!