Hi guys does anyone know where to get a new or slightly used B230 NA header or a new manifold. my manifold is rusted through and I am looking something decently cheap to replace it with.

 

exhaust? probably a junkyard is your best bet. snag the exhaust manifold AND downpipe from a newer 240, and it should bolt up to your head just fine, and you always adapt the tailpipe to the bottom of the downpipe. if your car has EGR and you live in a smog state <cough>California</cough> be sure to grab a header that has the EGR port.

do bring a can of Kroil with you to the pick-and-pull, them old rusty exhaust studs will be a bear to remove.

 

thanks man. Also one other quick question. How long does my exhaust need to be to avoid valve damage. I have always heard that running no header could damage valves.

 

IMHO, the stock exhaust system is optimal on these cars, unless you're going crazy with engine modifications, and if thats the case, you'd be better off over on TurboBricks | High Performance Volvo Club

just please remember.... louder does NOT equal faster. I have a neighbor who's poured $20 or $30 thousand into customizing his harley fatbutt, thing sounds like an earthquake going by... my dead stock 18 year old bmw touring bike, with luggage, totally dusts him and is nearly silent. I can't stand riding with him, he's so loud.

 

Im looking into later after shes running again getting a different cam and I was going to basically dump the exhaust right after the cat. so lets say I have $400 dollars right now what are some things I can do to improve performance?

 

please don't drive anywhere near my house with no muffler.

get a 94/95 "L" block B230FT out of a 940 turbo, and tweak it out, crank up the boost, aftermarket fuel injection controller, bigger injectors, high flow fuel pumps, ported heads, etc etc, and you can get maybe 200-250HP beore things start getting really expensive and you have to completely upgrade the whole drive train. the guys on turbobricks have it down to a science.

a stock B230FT turbo will get you about 160 HP in factory tune, with about 240 ft-lbs of torque.

none of it involves no mufflers. at some point around 250 HP you might want bigger exhaust pipes and high flow mufflers. before then, no point.

 

so i thought about the b230 turbo. how do i get my hands on the turbo a
and all the pping for that and how much is that?

 

you need the complete engine. get one from a wrecked 940 turbo from a pick and pull.

get the wiring harness, intercooler, and just about everything else under the hood. get the ECU and ICU too, they are in the passenger footwell, and the wiring harness between there and the engine. get the transmission, its the heavier duty AW71 version, and usually has lockers (crude positraction). 1992+ 740/940's have electric fans, and bigger radiators, so get those too. the turbo cars typically have taller rear end ratios and the beefier version of the Dana30 rear end, so you want to get the guts of the differential (the 7/9 has a different torque arm and rear suspension arrangement than the 240 so you can't just swap the whole rear axle, but the inner parts should be compatible).

7/9's have a way different fuse panel and relay panel (ok, 2's don't even have a relay panel, they are shotgunned all over), so you'll need to get creative with the fuel pump relays and stuff. probably can hack that part of your harness into the LH2.4 wiring harness for the newer 7/9

the 1994/1995 blocks have improved piston skirt lubrication via squirters inside the block, this will greatly forestall piston slap.

all the turbo engines have sodium filled valves, and lower compression ratios. if you turbocharge a normal engine, you'd blow it up in a week.

frankly, I wouldn't even think of going there. instead, I'd find a new 92-95 940 Turbo, preferably wagon (ok, I like wagons) and fix THAT up.

 

Ok well lets look at the 240 I have. lol. with that $400 hundred without a turbo what can be done? what are some free mods that can be done as well?

 

$400 won't quite buy 4 good new tires.

$400 will get you 4 decent new shocks/struts, with the hardware bits that should be replaced, but the labor is on you (if you take it to a mechanic, you're looking at about $400-500 labor for all 4 shocks/struts).

$400 will buy you about 100 gallons of gas at the current west coast prices, thats about 7 tanks.

there's no such thing as cheap bolt on horsepower. anything that claims it is, is lying.

 

SO I have been looking for the K cam. Do you know where or how I can obtain one?

 

IPD sells the european style Vx cam, VX Street Performance Camshaft for Non-Turbos

no idea where you'd find a 'real' volvo K cam, afaik they weren't sold in the US.

 

Do you happen to know how the VX cam compares to the K cam?

 

I don't. my daughter's 87 240 has its original stock cam, and so does my 92 740 turbo.

my experience with friends who 'cammed' and otherwise hotrodded their (non-volvo) engines has generally been that there's no free ride. if you improve performance at the top end, drivability suffers at the low end. a cam is usually the 3rd or 4th stage in a series of modifications, starting with improving air flow and fuel delivery. the higher the performance, the sooner stuff breaks, and the more money you can pour into it.

 

Basically I am looking to do a restoration. I am just trying to get the best performance out of the stocker I have. I would like to know of a few things I can do that improve performance. A few things I have heard but aren't sure of are: taking the screen off the MAF, replacing the ignition coil with one from a B234, and of course the cam shafts. Any thing else you guys have heard of that I can do?

 

I wouldn't take the screen out of the MAF, I've never HEARD of anyone doing that, as a performance enhacment or otherwise. the stock coil has plenty of spark for stock RPMs and fuel/air flow rates, more spark won't do anything. given everything else stock, a cam that improves high RPM performance usually messes up lower RPM performance.