I assume you do a lot of city miles. BC you say kilometres and that kilometereage is low for that year.

350km a tank around town isnt that bad.


Fix idle issus and go from there.

 

wagons had small tanks until mid 90s 940s increased it some.

 

Im talkin' about the old 16'ish gal tank.

 

I don't think the tank on my 92 740 turbo wagon is much over 14.3 gallons usable.

I *wish* it had about 18-20 gallons, considering that the turbo gets 18-20MPG, or 16 if you're leadfooting it around town.

my benz has over 18 gallons, and gets 20 around town and 24 on the highway, with more horsepower AND more torque.

 

240's should always have the 15'ish gallon tank. Same with solid axle 700's.

I may have squirted 16 gallons in my 240 RARELY. Most of the time it's 15-ish. On my 740's I recall if I hit 15 gallons I was definitely pushing it.

The IRS equipped 760/940 come with a 21 gallon tank. My ol' 1988 764T drank over 20 gallons at fill up. Same thing with my 1996 964. I recall gas attendants being surprised when I told them I wanted $70 worth of gas!

Interesting you say older WAGONs had smaller tanks. Maybe to combat the ol' wagon tail squat....

 

The idle has gotten worse

Cold start in the morning it wont start on the first crank and then when i crank it again it will shoot up to the 2000rpm area and stay there until i give her some gas ....

I ordered a tps and another IAC

So frustrating

 

before throwing more parts at it, have you been down the idle adjustment procedures here?
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...injection.html

 

Is mine an LH2.2 or 2.4?
86' 740 GLE wagon - non turbo

 

LH2.2 was used in non-turbos from 1984 to 1988. 1989+ is LH 2.4, unless its Regina.

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...#Idle_Problems

 

Make sure your throttle cable/ plate isn't binding. Next time it does that, don't give it more gas, then shut the car off, remove the intake air tube and note throttle position.

 

Hey, my battery just wanted to check in and let you know that it is doing much better and has no problem consistently starting the car.

 

so i fixed the idle. I replaced the IAC and the TPS.

but still not getting good km's per tank !

in the city im getting not even 300km per tank... and no i do not have a lead foot.

where can i go from here??? 02 sensors and maf?

 

'per tank', how many liters are you putting in at 300km ?

a well tuned 740 should get around 10L/100km (24MPG) in around-town driving, but that depends on the town, too. a place like San Francisco, you'd likely get worse as its all stop and go 1 block and steep hills.

 

full tank. i never put less then a full tank. i even top it off!

 

yes, but how many liters are you putting in? and how many km ('less than 300km' isn't a useful statement as it just sets a limit).

'empty' as in red alert light still has like 6-8 liters in the tank. I believe your wagons tank is like 60L empty, but i bet your fillups are more like 50L

anyways, assuming everything else is good, the #1 cause of excess gas consumption is erroneous ECT (Engine Coolant Temp sensor) readings, if the ECU thinks the engine is cold, it runs it richer. Now, I'm NOT saying dash out and replace the ECT, instead I'm suggesting you read its resistance when your engine is hot and again after its cooled down, read it at the ECU connector, behind the passenger footwell side panel on the door hinge side. this takes wiring into account.

also, you can verify you're car is in 'lambda balance', find the connectors to the O2 sensor, unplug the single wire connector and wrap a thin strand of copper wire around the pin and plug it back in. with the engine fully warmed up, hook a DC volt meter up to this wire and ground... you should see readings that swing between 0.1 or so to 0.9 volts or so. it might be 0.3 to 0.7, the exact voltage doesn't matter, what matters is the swinging back and forth, at idle this should happen every few seconds and if you rev the motor up a bit, it should happen faster like once a second. it also shoudl be symmetrical, the high voltage time and low voltage time should be about the same.

 

start with a compression test and move up from there. You can even do a leakdown test. A compression guage is about $50USD. A leakdown tester is about $100USD. Whatever that is in Oz Bucks or Europas.


Need to have good healthy compression and valves that don't leak for optimal MPG.

 

I tried PM'ing ya a while ago about something (forgot topic), Pierce, but it kicked it back saying you don't accept PM's. On THIS forum, I can't blame ya. PM box would fill UP with first time posters and their nonsense.

So I am gonna drop this one here. Topic: Astronomy:

Have you been looking at the planets that have been close together in the sky recently? It's pretty awesome with just the naked eye, but can I come over and use your scope!? jk. meet halfway! i am by Tijuana.

 

thats Venus and Jupiter, and within a matter of a few more weeks, they both are dropping around the sun and will no longer be in our evening skies. Venus is on the near side of the sun (if you get a pair of decent binocs on it, you can see that its crescent shaped now), while jupiter is heading around the far side of the sun (ok, actually, jupiter moves really slowly, WE are moving around the opposite side of teh sun from Jupiter. by Fall, they will be in the early morning sky (something we don't get much of here, as it usually fogs up in the morning near the ocean here).

 

Oh yes, Venus and Jupiter. I think I knew that, but asked anyways for the sake of it. Yep, low in the western sky during the evening. Is it common for them to be close like that, though?

I took an astronomy class in college and it was gnarly hard, but I enjoyed it a lot.

 

Update

I have replaced the injectors... It is still sluggish on cold starts but not as severe as before. I dont have any check engine lights but im thinking either mass air flow ? 02 sensor?

I find it weird how after changing injectors it has cleaned up the problem a bit. So maybe the burned fumes hitting the 02 sensors is cleaner and thus helping the problem a bit????