HMMM the marks all line up with the proper marks on the back timing cover?
The Crank washer slot lines up with the mark on the aliminum cover?

 

Yep.....still no start though.


[IMG]local://upfiles/8151/304A2E7B286D418AA593C1E216AB8486.jpg[/IMG]

1. All timing marks line up.
2. Distributor lines up with old washer marks left by the mounting bolts.
3. Rotor is pointing up at TDC. (this one still bothers me, its pointing at #3 tower instead of closer to #1)
4. Hot spark while cranking.
5. Can hear fuel pump running and get full fuel flow if I remove the return line from the FPR.
6. At TDC I've looked into the oil fill hole and can see that both valves are closed on #1 cylinder.
7. I can hear the injectors clicking while cranking. I used a test light on the connectors and I get a light on both wires in the connector while cranking. I thought I should get power on only one wire and the other one would be the groung wire that the ECU grounds? Is this correct?
8. New sparkplugs, new rotor, new cap, new wires.
9. unplugged the MAF, no start.
10. pinched return line, no start.
11. Tank was below 1/4 tank, added 5 gallons of fresh gas. Gas coming from return line smells fresh.
So this is where I stand as of this morning. Only 2 things buggin' me at the moment is the power on both wires of the injectors and the rotor pointing almost directly at #3 tower at TDC. Anyone see something I'm missing or have any ideas? Only thing I know to try now is to start testing sensors and wiring continuity. But I need a wiring diagram and test values for all the components.

 

Yes the ECU grounds one side of the injector. The test light might not be able to pick up the pulse though. See if you can get ahold of a Noid light. That will tell you if you have injector pulse or not.

Also have you checked compression yet?

 

I haven't checked it myself, but I probably should. The previous owner checked it and wrote the results on the hood insulation. All are shown to be above 140. I'll add that to the list of things to double check today. I doubt I will be able to get a noid light today. Both wires are suppose to have power?

 

They might show power on both check link to see if you have a harbor freight near you.
The link is to a noid light set.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92667

 

Checked compression.
#1 150
#2 130
#3 160
#4 140
Off to see if I can find a noid light set. Found one.....all injectors are being pulsed.

 

Thats close enough.

 

Tried a shot of starting fluid, no luck. I'm running out of ideas. I'll try rigging up a gauge to check fuel pressure. But I doubt this is a result of low pressure, since the starting fluid got no reaction. Unless maybe I'm getting too much fuel already. But I haven't smelled fuel like I would if it was flooded. Still thinking.............

 

Pull the plugs and make sure they aren't soaked with gas.

 

Did that.....waiting for the battery to charge back up to try some more.
Update....success!! It runs...but it has a terrible exhaust leak. Looks like exhaust manifold gaskets. Problem was that rotor that kept bugging me. I took the distributor out again and flipped the piece over that fits into the end of the cam. Got the rotor pointing in the right direction and it started right up. Didn't run it for long, but it idles good and smooth and starts right up everytime. Just have to order that crank pulley so I can put all the belts back on and not worry about that hunk of cast iron flying off. Thanks for all the help!