Just picked up a '88 240DL in decent shape to drive back-and-forth to work. Got it home by hauler because it wouldn't start. . The car wouldn't even turn over at all/ The former owner bought a new alternator and battery but never installed it. Thew them in last night and now the car turns over, but still won't start. Well, looking on here today, I have been troubleshooting. Thus far, this is what I have discovered/attempted:

Thought it may be fuel pump. This is when I realized it had 2 fuel pumps. Doh! So, open up the access thru the trunk for inner fuel pump. Doesn't seem like it is running. Check voltage, only 10 volts going to pump. Is this the correct amount of voltage? I can't find this anywhere...

So, I pull fuel pump and find strainer needs replacing. Replace it, but now I still need to figure out why interior pump isn't working. Hook pump up to 12 volts, and it runs. So, again, is the 10 volts correct?

Now, not knowing if 10v is correct and if the relay is any and if the exterior mounted pump even works, I fond that I can jump a wire between fuses 4 and 6 and both pumps SHOULD run. So, I install interior pump back in, jump the fuses, and I can hear pumps (I thought working). Couldn't tell if it was both pumps or just 1. Lay down by exterior pump, and it is running. Still, sounds like interior pump is running, too. So, I unplug interior pump to confirm, and no change in sound. So, it seems as though only exterior mount pump is working. So, now I am back to, is 10volts enough? Anyone wiling to check the voltage at that plug? Also, since I bypassed the relay, what the odds the relay is bad, too?

Any help is appreciated, I would love to get my small investment running.. Thanks in advance...

 

Try the following website for in-tank fuel pump specs....airtexproducts.com you have to create a profile and wait to be accepted....sucks....but you have access to all sorts of technical data regarding fuel delivery and trouble shooting.

I saw on the Haynes book a picture of the guy testing the intank fuel pump on a sedan and it reads......13.50V but this might be an older model like an 81....they had a VDO pump that has been discontinued and replaced with the AC Type pump.

 

You should be getting 12v to the in-tank pump. If you remove fuse 4 and jumper the right side of fuse 6 to the right side of fuse 4, this should just activate the in-tank pump. Try that and see if the in-tank pump is working.

A good write up on in-tank pump diagnosing/replacement can be found at

http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm

Good luck.

 

You seem fairly saavy, so probably have done this, but just in case: Have checked your relay? If the fuel pump relay has cracks in the soldering it can create resistance in areas (which eventually burns the whole thing out) but they may be underpowering the pump.
**EDIT** Sorry, skimmed over you jumping it. It might be worth checking, but if the jump doesn't work probably not the relay. If your cams are turning, check for a spark at all points in the ignition circuit. Then i would investigate the wiring to the pump.

Also, again, probably already done, but just in case: are your cam's turning? Could be a timing belt.

 

Turned out to be the 25a fuse. Replaced it and it fired right up. Now I think I may have a bad fan clutch because while sitting idle for 10 mins or so the temps starting rising. Just have to check to see if the fan us kicking on or not.

 

not necessarily likely, but at least worth considering: http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-200/Elec...9-257-335-193/

If you can't find anything wrong with the cooling system, it might be the meter.