finally getting around to replacing my strut tubes. a family friend said he has access to a machine at his work that can replace the inner strut. just have to bring the struts to him.

what is the simplest method of removing the strut assembly from the car?

thank u!!

 

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Fro...rutReplacement

not sure what this 'machine' is, you jack up the front end, put the car on sturdy(!) jack stands, loosen the big gland nut on top of the strut towers, install spring compressors, remove top nut, unbolt strut mount, unbolt lower end of strut from suspension, remove strut, and the shock absorber/damper cartridge comes right out.

I recommend replacing the upper strut mount when you do this, as your old ones are likely cracked and tired. avoid off brands and repackers like Uro, Meyle.

 

not exactly sure what kind of setup it is (he works at a Bmw dealership) but i assume it's something like this https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mSwUcsJV95w

Is it possible to get the strut out as a whole without compressing the springs? I don't want to mess with spring compressors or the gland nut if I don't have to.

 

you need to compress the spring to take the strut out, otherwise it all explodes in your face.

and, that gland nut is whats holding the string in, its directly on the shaft of the strut. no idea how you'd think you could remove any of it without removing that gland nut, did you read the article I linked?

 

You take the WHOLE ASSEMBLY out, NOT compress the spring while in the car, then you use the machine to compress the spring and take the strut out! Compressing the spring while still in the car makes no sense and it could be impossible in some cars due to lack of space...

 

alright so how do I get the whole assembly out?

 

 

That video's for a 700 series, not 200. The bottom side is a little different on a 200.

I've replaced the front shocks on my '91 240 a couple of times, in a short amount of time. (Why is a longer story.)

Here's my two cents:

You certainly can take the whole strut out, but that seems excessive, and then you should probably do an alignment, because to remove the entire strut assembly, you have to undo some bolts/nuts (3 per side) that affect the alignment. On the 700 series, it looks like the alignment elements (judging from the video) aren't affected when you remove the strut.

This is how I did it.
240 DL shocks and strut replacement
(It's post #4 if the link doesn't go directly to it.)Then you don't have to do an alignment. At some point the author says, "If you can't get the 3 top bolts to clear the fender lip, you can loosen the 3 nuts holding the ball joint to the control arm." He's right, you can get more wiggle room if you do that... but then, you should consider an allignment... I didn't do that. You can get the strut tower out. It ain't easy.

This link has nice pictures, but removes the strut entirely (so don't follow those instructions. The pictures are just for reference.):

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/1986+19...placement/7576

Notes on the pictures:
Step 5 shows a special tool--you can pretty much use a hammer on the top. Use some wood do prevent damage on the top of that--you'll use that to hold onto when you re-install the steering links.
Step 6 is the step you skip. It also shows what the problem is--there is adjustability on those 3 bolts. Unless you are absolutely sure you put it back together correctly, you really need a re-allignment.
In step 8, be sure to mark the position of the bolts--the front side has adjustability (The 2 nuts in the metal portion). I did it with a sharpie.

Anyway, it's not super hard, but still a bit of a pain.

Best of luck.