I was coming home yesterday and the engine just shut off, didn't hear a sputter or missing out or anything. Will not restart. Did some checking today. I have spark at #1 plug wire. Could not hear fuel pump run after turning key to on. Disconnected fuel line and had no pressure. I jumped #4 & $6 fuses, pump runs and shoots fuel out. I then pulled the relay out and jumped 30 and 87/2, again pump ran and flowed fuel. I substituted 2 different identical relays and no fuel. Then I reconnected the fuel line, jumpered #4 & 6 on the fuse panel, could hear pump running, and tried to start, would not try, cranks good, no start. How can I have spark, force the pump to run and yet not even try to start? I can't afford to throw parts at it, any ideas? I'm guessing since I've got spark, the cps, computer and ignition circuit is good. To just shut off like it did, I expected it to be the cps, but I have spark.

Thanks
dave

 

Have you checked the timing belt? It is still possible to get a spark on one cylinder without the timing belt turning the halfshaft (you mentioned you checked for spark on only one cylinder).

Pull the oil cap off and have someone crank the engine.You should see the cam turning.

Good luck

 

I'm not sure you'd get spark at all if the timing belt was broken. If you did, you'd get a constant spark too, since the cam isn't turning. Either way, check it...does it sound normal when you crank it?

 

I only checked spark on 1 cylinder. I am by myself this week, so it's hard to look at the cam while turning the key. I did check it, though and the cam definitely was in a diferent position after cranking the motor. And it does sound normal when it cranks, just no start.

Thanks
dave

 

Its possible that something is wrong with your fuel ECU, and the injectors aren't opening. I would check for both ignition and fuel trouble codes. See the LH2.4 section:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...neOBDCodes.htm

The fuel relay also contains the "system" relay, make sure you have battery voltage on the orange #5 wire connected to the AMM, with the key on.

 

I'm an idiot. Tested the stuff posted about today. Then realized I didn't have a fuel pump relay even plugged in. Here's the correct info:

Battery voltage 12.5, orange #5 wire at AMM voltage same.

Got a 1-1-1 out of the diagnostics.

Found 2 computer looking boxes under dash in passenger footwell. Wiggled connectors and pushed in solidly. No change.

dave

 

The fuel ECU BOSCH part number should end with -561 or -572, I think the ground connections are on the fuel rail.

Next would be to see if the injectors are opening (by listening or using a noid light).

 

I just got it to start by jumping fuse 4 to fuse 6. It dies when I disconnected the jumper. Can definitely hear the pump run with the jumper hooked up. I'll go check the computer #'s.

Thanks
dave

 

There's a 3rd box in the outside of the passenger footwell behind the kick panel. It's number ends with -561. I don't have noid lights and I'm by myself again tonight so can't listen while cranking the motor. Probably too deaf to hear it, anyway. Can I check the injectors with a basic DVOM? Will my cheap Craftsman DVOM cyle fast enoug to work? It's not a graphing model, unfortunately.

dave

 

So will it run OK when you jumper the fuses? Did you get 1-1-1 for both sockets 2 and 6?

 

Yes, I got 1-1-1 at both 2 & 6. It did run with the jumper on fuse location 2 & 6.

Thanks
dave

 

Yes, I got 1-1-1 at both 2 & 6. It did run with the jumper on fuse location 2 & 6.

Thanks
dave

 

Most likely it's the fuel ECU. The pink label -561 has a known failure where it no longer grounds the blue/green to the pump relay. Try to find a white label -561 or a -951. Search for "pink label" for more information. They are cheap used from junkyards or ebay.

 

I think it is a white label now. Will it hurt anything to run it with a jumper and a toggle switch unti lI can find a reasonable price ECU?

dave

 

The best temporary fix would be to ground the blue/green wire at the relay .. this will also verify the ECU is the problem if the car runs like that. The only drawback is this bypasses a saftey feature where normally the pumps only run when spark is present.

 

Have you looked behind the fuse in the panel to see if you have broken or corroded wires?

 

I will look behind the fuse panel tonight and ground blue/green that wire as a double check.

thanks
dave

 

I grounded the blue/green wire at the fuel pump relay tonight. Started right up. I drove it to town that way (34 mile round trip) and it ran great all the way. I will look for a replacement for the fuel ECU. Will also look for corrosion behind the fuse panel, have not done that yet.

I appreciate all the help from everyone; Bubba240, you nailed it for me. I would never have got this running without your help.

Thank you
dave