I think that plug goes to the cold start injector. Does it plug into the head or the manifold? If it's the manifold it's the csi plug.

 

Yes it does plug into the manifold.

As for the low idle, I'm beginning to think I need to "adjust" the TPS. I had taken it off when I had the manifold out and I think something may be off. When I open the throttle, I do not hear a click noise. From what I've been reading, this means that the TPS needs to be adjusted, so that it knows when no pressure is being applied to the throttle via the pedal - the ECU then manages the idle.

 

I have since adjusted the TPS using the methods described here: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ic.php?t=43870

It seems to have worked and the car no longer stutters on idle. It has, however, created a new problem. I now have a very high idle on a warm start, with a bit of surging. The car will idle at about 1000 RPMs, then slowly rise to 2000 RPMs, then cut back down and slowly rise again. The throttle cable is just taught, and is resting just at the stop plate.

Video:


I unplugged the IAC connector and the RPMs went right up to about 2000 with a very fast surge. I'm assuming this is telling me that the IAC is working properly since it got worse when it was unplugged. I also ran the diagnostic test, mode 3, port 2, and the IAC was clicking as it should when the car went through the diagnostics.

Any thoughts as to what may be causing this?

Thanks, as always!

 

This afternoon I had an opportunity to take a drive to New Germany, NS with a friend to take a look at '90 240 DL wagon, automatic, with 350,000 kms. We took my 240 for the trip (about 3 hours there and back) and she ran really well. It didn't miss a beat, and kept up on the hilly highway at 120km/h, in 5th, without so much as a groan. Unfortunately the 240 we went to look at was in rough shape, with lots of body fill on the rear quarters.

The high idle was still persistent on my 240, however, so I just got back in from some more diagnosing/adjusting. I removed the IAC and cleaned it out, with no change in the idle. I decided to adjust the TPS once more with great success. It appeared that I went from having it in a position creating a low idle, to one that was creating the high idle. I placed it in a spot near the middle and now have a consistent warm idle at ~750 RPMs. I'm very happy with the result!

 

the idle /should/ start around 1200-1500 rpm for a cold motor, then drop in a couple minutes to the normal warmed up 700 rpm.

 

Yes it was doing that just fine on a cold start. It was only idling high after a warm start, or after I had driven the car for 15-20 mins and came to a stop. All fixed now though with the TPS adjustment.

 

I have a random question, that I'm hoping someone will know the answer to.

Over the winter I took the driver's seat out of my 240 in order to stiffen up the lower springs, and to fix the lumbar support. When I took it apart, I noticed that the heated seat pad was crumbling and as in no shape to be repaired. While at the local pick-n-pull yesterday, I noticed the 1994 940 that was there had heated front seats as well. Does anyone know if the heated seat pads from the 940 are the same as the 240? If the plugs aren't the same, would I be able to remove the plugs from my 240 pad and solder them onto the 940 pad?

Thanks.

 

even different year 940's have different plugs :-/

I doubt they are the same as the 240's, but sure, it shouldn't be hard to splice the 240 plug onto the 940 seat heater cable.

 

I've been tinkering away at a few things on the 240 for the past couple of weeks. I removed a cruise control system (this type: http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/im...e/GR-44027.jpg) from an
'87 wagon at the pick-n-pull yesterday, and forgot to write down where a couple of the wires in the harness plug into. Mainly the small spade bits that don't plug into the stalk, or pedal switches.

I remember seeing an install manual for this version floating around at one point with all of the details, but can't seem to find it now. I have found the install booklet for the '91 model, but not the older type. Does anyone have a copy of this instruction manual or know where the wires all go to?

 

hm, my 87/88 wiring diagram green book doesn't have the cruise control

there's a greenbook dedicated to the 1990+ cruise control, which looks pretty darn similar to the older one.

there's a black ground wire thats connected to the control unit pin 8, this would go to a chassis ground somewhere nearby.

there's an unspecified color wire that goes from the steering control stalk pin 1 to fuse 12.

there's a yellow wire that goes from the CU pin 5 to the speedometer, but this doesn't say what pin. I note hte wiring diagarm for the instrument panel shows a connection from the spadelug '200' next to the speedo to the 'shift indicator unit' (this is a light on a stickshift car that tells you to shift much sooner than you probably want to, hahahaha). anyways, it appears that spade lug 200 is an output of the speedo

 

Thanks Pierce. The spade plug is what has me a bit confused. My understanding is that the orange wire from the harness (loner wire) goes to the speedo somewhere, but I'm unsure of where. It's the other single wire that must be the one that goes to a shift light. It comes off of the brake/clutch switches.

I have it grounded properly and going to the correct fuse.

 

Here are the left over plugs. Again, I think orange goes to speedo. The blueish-green one I am unsure of. Also, there is a tap on a wire (and if I remember correctly), taps into a brown wire somewhere under the dash. Totally lost at this point.

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Since my last post, I removed the older cruise control system as I could not find a proper wiring diagram anywhere to figure out where these wires go. A week ago, however, I picked up a '92 parts car for a whopping $100, and it had the newer '91+ version of the cruise control.

I installed everything as per:http://www.ohio.edu/people/ridgely/v...%20Install.pdf but I still don't seem to have a working system. I've been doing a ton of reading, and a bunch of people are talking about a yellow wire that connects to the rear of the speedo on the double spade plug. From what I can see in the cruise wiring harness, the yellow wire from the control module, goes into another wiring harness plug and turns into a blue/black wire, which matches the wire going to the speedo through the regular speedo wiring harness.

The install instructions above make no mention of a yellow wire from the module the connects directly to the speedo, so maybe I'm confusing this system with an earlier version? Any info or some direction would be appreciated!

PS- I should mention that I have tested the pedal switches to ensure they are working properly, determined there were no vacuum leaks, and tested the vacuum pump on the bench to ensure it was working correctly.

 

Check out this thread. The second post has a wiring diagram for the cruise control. This matched my '90 240. Don't know if it matches a '91 as the '91 has a different speedometer cluster to account for ABS.

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...control-57928/

 

I had a chance to read through that thread a couple days ago, and that's where I found the yellow wire connect to the blue/black wire in the harness. My car doesn't have ABS, but the car the cruise system came from did have ABS. Maybe there's a difference there?

 

I'm not sure about the differences. You might want to try to contact Art Benstein over on Brickboard (www.brickboard.com) as he knows quite a bit about these cars and the workings of the speedometers & differences between ABS vs. non-ABS versions. In the write-up here:

Electronic Speedometer Notes

the signal that runs to the ECU is the same signal that runs to the cruise control. In the '91 speedometer, the speed signal has more pulses than the '90 but I don't know if that changed the output signal to the ECU/Cruise Control. If it did, then I suspect that '91 had a different cruise control.

In another write-up he made (found here: 240 Volvo: Replacing the Brake Light Switch) he mentions that Volvo used 3 different cruise control systems between '83 and '93 but he doesn't mention what they were and when the changed. He's the guy to talk to.

 

I decided to put aside the cruise control project for the time being as a bunch of parts I ordered for the rear end arrived a couple weeks ago. So, last weekend I got started tearing apart the rear end.

I took out the springs, shocks, spring seats, panhard rod, trailing arms, etc. to ensure I could get a good look at everything. All of the bushings were shot, so I replaced them all with the basic set that is sold by FCP: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...ng-kit-240rkit The build quality seems to be good, but time will tell.

Shocks were replaced with a basic Monroe touring shock from Car Quest. They were ~$40 each so the price was reasonable.

I replaced the spring seats with the Volvo part sold by FCP: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...44-245-1221882 As expected, the quality is good, but I was a little surprised that it was just galvanized, and had no black coating.

Springs were replaced with Moog (CC217) variable rate from Amazon, at the great price of $69: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...4288878&sr=8-1 I have to say I'm really impressed with the ride from these. They're definitely stiffer than my old ones (too be expected), but offer a good mix of touring/stiff feel, and when I loaded the wagon down with a bunch of sods last week, they held the height.

I also took the opportunity to sandblast and grind all the rust off the panhard bar, trailing arms, axle, etc. and paint them with Tremclad rust paint (similar to Rustoleum), before pushing the old bushings out. I wanted to be sure that all the parts would look good when they were put back in, and that they'd continue to last for another 25 years. I topped off the job with some fresh undercoating in the whole area.

Overall, I'm very impressed with the improved ride quality. The rear end of my wagon was pretty tired, so any change was a welcome improvement. It now sits at a good height, is much quieter, and doesn't bounce around on bumps.

In addition to the rear end upgrades, I also was able to locate a replacement hatch from an '82 wagon in Annapolis Royal, NS. The gentlemen had been by to take a look at some parts I had for sale a few weeks ago and mentioned he had a relatively rust free hatch that I could take a look at. I ended up making the trek to check it out last weekend, and he was kind enough to give me the hatch for free, as well as a rear taillight to replace my cracked one. Gotta love the Volvo community!

Some pics are below of the progress, along with a pic near the end of the new ride height and replacement tail gate. As you can see, a rear brake job is next on the to-do list.

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