92 240DL - Crankshaft Sensor?

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Old 06-26-2010, 12:51 PM
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Red face 92 240DL - Crankshaft Sensor?

Recently picked up for $800, 137k and very clean. However would have been a fool not to expect SOME issues. Immediately I had trouble with stalls. Stalls would happen at every imaginable instance, engine didn't always die completely, and would almost always turn right back over. My gut said fuel filter, which certainly helped but was no fix. My mechanic was sure it was a prepump, needless to say he hasn't gotten paid yet.

I found the onboard diagnostics unit (very neat little device), and came up with an Ignition System code 2-1-4, which my research tells me is a bad sensor. Any other tips/advice? It seems inexplicable stalls are somewhat common with these.

Where is the crank sensor located, exactly? Cheap part, would love to change myself..

First post, love the site already,
Osc
 

Last edited by coolson; 06-28-2010 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 06-26-2010, 02:49 PM
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The crank sensor is mounted dead top center on the motor where the bell housing meets the block. The bell housing has a notch cut out for it. A failed sensor wil result in a no start...period. It may very well be the sensor has simply vibrated loose or the wire connector is marginal.
 
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:26 PM
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sounds like a bad MAF sensor or a filthy throttle body to me. When does it die? At idle? While driving? Low on gas? Could be several different things. A bad in tank pump would cause this if your tank is less than 1/4 full. Also, a bad fuel pump relay can do that...never seen a bad crank angle sensor cause the car to stall then start right back up but I guess it could...bu usually, car just won't start..but never know I don't count anything out anymore I've seen just about everything. . Really you need to get a fuel gauge on it and a ignition light. Then wait for te car to die and see what it loses spark or fuel. The fuel pump relay controls both because it turns the ECU on which turns your fuel pumps on. Cheapest test if you don't have gauges etc. Is to replace your fuel pump relay. You can even get a couple used ones from a junk yard see if it cures it. It is located under drivers side kick panel usually clipped on to the ignition module but sometimes they are just hanging if they have been replaced once before. This doesn't work check for vacuum leaks especially your bellows(black corrugated hose that holds the MAF sensor. Then next step try a new(good used) MAF sensor the number you are looking for is 016. The onboard OBD1 unit only detects electrical current so the crank angle sensor may be weak or you have a bad ECU. I have also seen a bad ignition module cause your symptons but usually car will not start right back up.
 
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:31 PM
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Thank you both for your input. Like I said it stalls at every imaginable instance, sometimes from a complete stop, rolling stop, slow cruising, fast cruising.. more often than not she doesn't lose power, just a moment of panic/rage for me.
I have been keeping the gas tank above half, I figured that would help at the very least. The prepump/primer pump is new if that's what you mean by in-tank pump. was told that would solve the problem but that had the least effect so far. It has been smooth sailing for about a week now, but she's very temperamental.
One morning after a few bad stalls I checked the fuses, both 4 and 6 were still in working order but slightly corroded, so I replaced with new ones (these two fuses control fuel pump functions). Seemed to help a good deal, and was the last time I experienced a bad stall. But like I said, very temperamental.
I'm leaning toward an electrical issue.. whether it's a faulty part or a bad connection. I guess I'll hold off on a fill up and see how that affects the issue.
Thanks again, any experiential advice is helpful.
 
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Old 06-27-2010, 03:38 PM
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Yes ,very smart. I forgot to add that corroded use panel could cause a stall...make sure you give it a complete service. Take all the fuses out then clean with a wire brush. put some silglyde or electrical grease on the connectors and the squeeze each connector together slightly to insure your fuses have a tight fit before you put your fuses back in this will prevent it from corroding again. Also, make sure you are not using glass fuses. The best are the plastic type with the gold. Silver works too but gold is much better. Also ,just so you know I have only seen this once before but your fuel pump wire runs underneath the drivers seat under the carpet. I believe it's a yellow wire. If that wire is bare or broken somewhere and when you are sitting just right on the seat you can "ground" it to the frame...car will die instantly. Lady I bought a 93 245 had this problem she spent over $3000 at a shop "trying" to figure it out...never did. I then bought the car from her for $500. It took me almost a week and a lot of library time to finally figure it out...Another thing to mention is if your car just stalls like a light switch has been turned off then it is most likely electrical. no power to injectors, no power to fuel pumps etc. If it spudders then dies mostl likely a fuel issue, bad in tank pump or weak main pump. So, I would check your wiring but also, I would still replace your fuel pump relay and see what happens. Cheapest fix....If that doesn't work just replace the crank angle sensor. get one from a junk yard they are easy to remove and install just need a long extension a ratchet and a 10mm socket preferably a swivel. Or if your hands are small enough you could try a 10mm wrench. It is located on the top of the bell housing it is black and has a black wire connected to it that leads up on the fire wall where it plugs in. Hope this helps and Good luck!!
 

Last edited by volvoguy2323; 06-27-2010 at 03:46 PM. Reason: Poor spelling left some stuff out
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:28 PM
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So, I identified the connection for the suspected sensor, gave it a wiggle while she was running and shonuff, she died like a light switch. Might have been the first time ever I was happy to see her stall out. The insulation had crumbled a bit, and the little rubber protective boot had come off the connection. I slipped it back into place and taped up the bad wiring. Running fine, and don't get me wrong, this was just a band-aid. I will put a new sensor in, just need to borrow a friend with a giant tool box to help with it. We're talking tight quarters here.
I had read a lot of people experiencing this kind of problem in wet/rainy conditions. In hindsight I can say the rain certainly doesn't help, and could imagine how moisture would make matter much worse.
Thanks to swiftjustice and volvoguy! This whole process is much more fun with a few shoulders to cry on, know what I mean??
 
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Old 06-29-2010, 12:06 AM
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Cool!! Sometimes we miss what"s right in front of our face. I bought a 90 245 about a month ago from a guy. The car would start, run like **** for about 2 miles backfire then die. I replaced EVERYTHING including crank angle sensor. Should have remembered the guy told me that he replaced the intake manifold gasket and then the symptoms started...dumby forgot to tighten the main grounds....if I would have checked grounds first I could have fixed in in about 20 seconds right in front of him and drove off into the sunset...but no I had to make it DIFFICULT!! Always do the easiest and simplest things first...then move on thru the process.. :cool
 
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