Putting rear pads+ on my friend's 93 245.

A) Notice the calipers have an unusual extension to the rear. It is ~1.25" out and arc shaped; it's close to, but clear of a sheet metal edge behind it.
Does anyone know its function?

No one lists separate calipers for the 245 vs 240, but the images shown did not look like what we saw.

B) Any advice on getting rotor off the hub? There is nothing for a puller to grab except in the notched out part of the backing plate where the caliper
We put a small chisel into the two ~0.5" dia holes in the rotor and banged it in to force the rotor out. Decided to wait until the new rotor arrives so remounted wheel; heard it snap back [torqued lug nuts twice] and hope next week it will be more cooperative. (Also getting another chisel....)

 

Volvo stopped calling them 242/244/245 circa 1985, after that they were just branded 240.

Volvo used several different brake calibers even in the same model year, so you need to identify which ones you have. the different calibers often match up to different pads and different rotors. brake caliber manufacturers include ATE, Girling, Bendix.

looks like a 1993 wagon rears might have either ATE calibers, or Girlings. Per my parts catalog, both of these use rear pad kit Volvo PN 271702

 

Thanks. I can't recall we saw a name on the casting but will check.
The 103.00310 pads from Rock Auto fit with no issue.

And suggestions on getting rotors off?

 

i dunno, the rotors always came loose for me when I removed the retention bolt/locator pin. if its really rusty, maybe spray it with some Kroil or PB Blaster, then let that soak in some, then tap it with a rubber mallet or something til it comes loose? afterwards, clean everything with brake-kleen to get rid of the penetrant.

 

We had that off and banged on the back with a mallet, while banging chisels in.

But you reminded me; what is the function of that locator pin? It's shorter than the studs so it's no help when mounting the wheel.
Are the studs/wheels not in a symmetric pattern?

 

the locator pin is there so you always mount the wheel onto the hub at the same orientation. thats not really that critical so its kind of superfluous, but it does serve to secure the rotor onto the hub, too

 

So replaced the RR caliper. Turns out the extension above bolts onto the caliper body. We swapped it from the old one.

Still no clue as to its function. There is a fin dropped down from the trunk above; the forward edge is arced to clear the extension with a constant gap of about half an inch. Maybe it's anticrush in case of being hit in the rear?

 

That extension is part of the safety system of your car. In a rear end collision the sheet metal is intended to hit the caliper pushing it forward. Nor sure what it is protecting though,

 

A The "sheet metal edge behind it" hits the calipers and pushes the rear axle/differential forward in a rear end collision hopefully preventing the differential from puncturing the gas tank. The frame rails above the rear wheel wells bend first in an accident. Transfer those wings to the new/reman calipers if missing.

B If you are going to replace it - just hit the braking surface (on the outside) with a steel hammer in several places, it will come loose

 

In a rear-end collision, I can't see how the metal fin will dislodge the rear axle; it's not that sturdy a piece vs. the axle+differential and suspension mountings.

We used a sledge and long punch on the inside edge, rotating the hub as we went. It finally came loose.