Does anyone know exactly how to convert a 940's power locks to a 960's remote system? I've searched quite a bit and there have been a few threads about this, but they're either incomplete or too complicated. I know you need to replace the 940 driver's door actuator with the 960 motor/solenoid. And I think the locking relays need to be replaced. Is that just a plug in? Also, I've seen some 960 wiring diagrams that show 2 relays(one of the tutorials I found talked about installing 5 relays!). I hope the 2nd one is for the alarm, which I don't need. And finally, where is the receiver located in a 960? I plan on getting my parts at pick n pull and they never have keys or remotes so can an aftermarket remote program itself to the Volvo receiver. Any help would be appreciated.

 

the 960 interior wiring harness is TOTALLY different than the 940's. relays are all different, the relay panel is in a different place, and everything.

its midnight and I'm about to crash, but if I remember tomorrow, I'll try and pull up the lock wiring diagrams for the 940 and 960 to compare. what year 940 do you have ?

 

Thanks Pierce. My car is a '93. Rather then get into a whole new rewiring job I've decided to go aftermarket. I ordered a control unit and a couple of remotes. According to this 240 Keyless Entry - Turbobricks Forums all I need is one solenoid off of a 960. Seems simple enough?

 

use high quality fine stranded wire with extra tough insulation through the door hinge as it has to flex every time you open/close the door. I'd suggest aircraft wire if you can find it.

 

Didn't think about. Good tip. Thanks.

 

Looks like I got in over my head. I thought it was going to be easy but my '93 940 has a different setup than what the tutorials are showing for 240's and 740's. Mine has what looks like a solenoid attached directly to the lock. It's output signal to the relay is the same as what a lock switch would put out. So I still have to somehow attach a separate solenoid that will respond to the remote control and brain box. But how do I connect it to the same rod? And where do I mount it? Any ideas, I'm stuck?

 

if I was attempting that, I'd probably use the 960 door parts. but the 960 also uses a completely different key type, so I'm not sure if you can put a 940 lock cylinder in there, or you'd end up with different door locks than ignition which sucks.

I've never attempted this conversion/upgrade, although I gave it a bit of thought awhile ago. as I'm mostly driving Mercedes w124's now, and the 740T wagon is reduced to hauling duties, I've lost interest.

 

Ok, I'll try and get creative.

 

I took a closer look and it looks do-able. All I have to do is mount the solenoid low and out of the way and fabricate a small bracket that will attach to it and the other end to where the door **** rod attaches. Looks like there's room for this. While I'm at it the brain I bought offers a parking light flashing option to find your car and I'd like to try hooking that up but my link to wiring diagrams
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/v...940%201991.pdf
doesn't show the parking lights. Would you have that?

 

flash via the emergency blinker circuit! that gets all 4 turn signals.

there's an antitheft alarm connector on a 940, connector 21/2 is 8 pins (2 rows of 4), green pin 1 and blue-green pin 2... if you connect power to both those, then all 4 turn signals will light up. don't connect them together or you'll short out the turn signals (eg, use a double throw relay or something). pin 3 is brown-black, and goes to ground. pin 4 is yellow-black, and goes to the central locking relay 'lock' control signal. pin 5 is green-black and goes to the lock relay 'unlock' control signal.

pin 6 is red-white and goes to the lock motors 'unlock' command, while pin 7 is blue-red and goes to the 'lock' signal. pin 8 is not connected.

note that the pin 6 and 7 lock/unlock signals are bipolar. 6 is powered and 7 is grounded to UNlock the car, 6 is grounded and 7 is powered to unlock. normally both are grounded. you could wire your drivers door lock motor across these same signals, they are at connector "B" in the left A-post, pins 38 (red-white) and 41 (blue-red).

as far as I can tell, this 8 pin connector is somewhere behind the center of the dash. the drawing for my 1992 is WAY ambiguous.

double-hmmmm. the drawing for the 1993 ATA connector is significantly different than my 1992 which I described above. pins 1-5 are the same, but 6-8 are different. the left A pillar connector is labeled C1 on the 1993 diagram and B on my 1992 diagram, but the pin 38 and 41 are the same. the 93 parts locator diagram somewhat vaguely suggests the ATA connector is behind the left side of the dashboard.

 

Wow, this is a lot of info that confirms your electrical background. Rather than hunt for a connector I was going to follow the simple instructions that came with my brain and splice into the lock and unlock wires that come out of the relay on their way to the power locks. I hope I'm not missing anything(electrics in general can confuse me). As far as the lights, your idea of spicing into the flasher is great! Flashing lights would stand out a lot more than steady lights. Is the flasher plugged into the relay board?

 

triggering the flasher would be trickier. my copy of the flasher/turnsignal diagram was fuzzy enough that I didn't feel like puzzling it out, but when you push the emergency flash button, it switches the power of the turn signal circuit from ignition only (fuse 9) to always-on power (fuse 2), AND jumpers across both turn signals at the same time.

the 'green' and 'blue-green' wires I listed are the turn signals themselves, so you'll need to do any flashing yourself.

 

Pierce I hope you can help me. I spent the last couple of days putting in the driver's solenoid. It was a tight fit trying to miss the bottom of the window and the interior door handle rod but with a little abs plastic bracket I made and a coat hanger I got it in and it works fine, when I jump it. Now the electrical, which at first looked overwhelming. I think I was over thinking this. Correct me if I'm wrong. When I click lock on my remote the brain box will send 12v to the new solenoid I installed in the driver's door. That will pull the solenoid down and along with it the locking ****, which in turn activates the original motor/key lock which will send a message to the relay to lock the other 3 doors. And the same for unlock. Right?

 

I would try and find that 2x4 pin block connector behind the dashboard somewhere that was intended for dealer installed alarms and such. or that "B" connector at the left A post (thats just forward of the door hinge), pin 38 (red-white) and pin 41 (blue-red) are what you wire the lock solenoid to directly.

 

Ok, I'll give it a shot. Thanks. Can't find any place suggested as a good mounting location for the brain box and especially with good reception for that little antenna they come with. Offhand, the only place which seems to have any room is above the kick panel. I don't know if that will "muffle" the range of the remotes. Any ideas?

 

I got in there once on mine, it wasn't hard. remove the door frame rubber molding, remove the kick panel under the dash, and the knee brace under/around the steering column, and the side panel should just come right off.

this "B" block connector should be somewhere forward of the driver door hinges. I think there might be TWO big lotsa-pin connectors, so look for the one that has red-white on pin 38, and blue-red on 41.

 

Ok thanks again.

 

Oh, one more thing I forgot. The brain needs always hot 12v and I believe that's fuse no. 2. How can I access the back of the fuse panel to splice into that?

 

Wait a minute, I'm even more confused. Why do I need to splice into any existing wiring? My brain box is going to send a signal to the new solenoid I put in. That's the only thing that needs to be wired(besides constant 12v and grnd) isn't it. Everything else is left alone and the new solenoid will move the locking **** rod which will make everything else lock or unlock. Am I underthinking it now?

 

Actually, I was over thinking it. All I did is connect the new solenoid to the brain box and it works perfectly. Also spliced off fuses 21 and 22 and now my remote will flash the parking lights. The last option is automatic closing of all windows when it's locking. But I think I would have to wire into the output of all 4 window switches because there isn't one switch that closes all, but I can live without that. Total cost was $24.00, not bad.