I have a 93 940 Turbo Wagon that's been sitting for a number of years. I've been trying to start it but I'm having no luck.

Both fuel pumps were seized, so I replaced them. I'm now reading 50psi at the rail schrader valve with the pumps jumped at the relay.

I'm getting spark at all 4 cylinders. Older NGK BPR6ES gaped at .030. Cleaned the distributor and rotor just to be sure. I'm seeing pulse with a testlight on the terminal of the coil.

Injectors have been removed and cleaned. They activate when supplied power and ground and I cleaned them by shooting carb cleaner through them. They all Ohm out to 2.5-2.7 and they all have a clean 12v from the suppression relay that is capable of running 5amp test light. Plugs are wet after cranking (maybe too wet) so they injectors seem to be firing.

Tach bounces while cranking suggesting RPM sensor is fine, as does the presence of spark.

Confirmed cam is moving while cranking, and compression is 160-170 across all four with the engine cold.

OBD connectors 2 and 6 report 1-1-1 after trying to crank

Engine will sometimes pop over on starting fluid. Engine will sometimes pop over on fuel with throttle at WOT but never with throttle closed. Flooding?

I'm pulling my hair out here. Any ideas?

 

should be reading 42-44psi at the fuel rail with no engine vacuum. 50 PSI is too high and suggests a defective fuel pressure regulator thats stuck closed. might be high enough to make the engine so rich it can't start.

 

Tried swapping out the regulator and still no start. I don't have my fuel pressure tester with me at the moment, so I'll have to verify rail pressure has returned to normal later.

I also tried grounding the coolant temperature sensor, which resulted in the gauge maxing out hot, and still no change to symptoms. Tried starting it disconnected, which should make jetronic assume warm engine, still no change.

Any other ideas?

 

there's two separate coolant sensors, if you made hte guage run hot, thats NOT the sensor the ECU and ICU use. the one pin sensor goes to the gauge, while the two pin sensor goes to the control units, this one is tucked pretty far under the intake manifold.

 

You're correct I grounded the wrong connector. The gauge sender is two wires in my car, which threw me off.

I grounded the OTHER 2pin connector under runner 3. No change to symptoms.

 

I had a chance to check fuel pressure again, and with the new regulator its returned to 43 psi cranking. Still a no start however, still a strong smell of unburnt fuel while cranking

 

ok, time to check the engine mechanical timing... spin the crankshaft to TDC with the camshaft also at the mark.... with the camshaft distributor, the secondary shaft timing is not important, since its just running the oil pump.

if thats correct, then I''d start to wonder about the EFI... you can borrow or rent a 'noid light' kit from an autoparts store, make sure it has the right adapter for the Bosch injectors, you unplug an injector, plug the noid light onto the injector, then plug the harness into the noid light, and while you crank the car, verify the noid light is blinking. no point in doing all 4, as they all fire together twice per engine turn. it sounds like your engine is getting way too much fuel, if the plugs are wet when you pull them after cranking.

 

I think you're onto something here with the timing. As a quick and dirty check, I used the screw driver method to bring #1 to TDC. I then checked the rotor and it was significantly before the #1 pole--I'd say halfway between the #3 pole and the #1 pole. If I'm thinking on this right, with the way the engine spins, that'd would be what one would expect to see if the timing belt jumped a few teeth: late spark timing events.

I'll tear the cover off tomorrow and attempt to line up the timing marks to confirm.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

If it's running rich, the spark plugs may be contaminated with fuel, look into that...
Check for air leaks in the intercooler and assorted plumbing--leaks there will cause rich fuel...

 

Couldn't resist having a peek so a pulled a few bolts off the cover and here we are:



Looks like I'll be doing a timing belt on this car.

 

yeah, phew, that looks like around 35 or 40 degrees late :-O ditto the valve opening/closings...

 

I'm shocked it had such good compression.

I couldn't resist going a bit further since the upper timing cover is so easy to remove. Loosened the belt and re-timed the engine and the car starts and runs beautifully. Now to order up some parts for a timing belt job and my old Volvo will be back on the road.

Thanks again for the help!