I thought I posted this but I guess it didn't work.
I have a 1994 940 wagon with B230F with the pulsair. The car made the 1 hour drive back from where I bought it, 100% highway, no problems, no check engine light. After driving around town for a bit, it died, started back up, drove a few miles, died again, started, died, then would not start. Towed it to a shop and it started back up.
So I had a shop look at it and they changed the water pump and radiator fan relay saying it was not cooling properly and would die when it got hot. So I took it for a long drive, no problems on the highway, but in traffic it died again. Looked like it started to get hot. So I let it cool down and it started back up. Did this every couple miles and finally just had it towed to the house. Seemed like the fan wasn't working so I put it through a relay to a switch so I could just turn it on and off when I needed to. Worked fine around town, no long drives. Then on a lunch break it died, but was able to start again. Wasn't even fully warmed up yet. Went to move it and it died after putting it in reverse.
I'd now like to attempt to check some things myself since I have some mechanical knowledge and want to try some things before taking it back to the shop who said they want to find out why the fan relay keeps blowing, even though it died before it even heated up last time.
I've changed the oil, air filter, plugs, and wires. I'll be cleaning the throttle body, MAF, and IACV this weekend as well. And this model of the car doesn't have the normal fuel pump relay behind the ash tray so I know that isn't the problem. I'll also have the fuel pressure checked later.
SO in the mean time I was hoping maybe someone has experienced or heard of this problem before and can add some input. Any help would be greatly appreciated before spending money at a shop to just change things out till the problem is fixed (even though I may end up doing that myself for a lower price).
Thanks

 

In these cases first thing to look at is the Crankshaft position Sensor. Sits on top of the bell housing...

And, don't go back to the shop that talked you into changing the water pump and that relay: they did all that and the fan is still not turning on?

I'd undo that switch you rigged up, it's quite unnecessary if the car is running right, but that's me.

 

the 94/95 non-turbo bosch 940's DO have a fuel pump relay in the main panel, just a different one in a different place.

on most all other LH2.x cars, the 'fuel pump relay' is in fact a dual relay, where one half powers the fuel injection computer (ECU) and some other stuff, while the other half powers the fuel pumps. on the 94/95's, they juggled stuff around so the ECU-n-stuff is powered by the 'radio suppression relay' thats under the hood, and put a different fuel pump relay in the main relay panel, its on the rearmost row (closest to the fuses), its in the slot one over from the far right, marked position "M" on some drawings.. Position "E" at the far left of the middle row where the combined relay is on prior models is empty, and has no connectors.

AFAIK, this "M" fuel pump relay is a fairly plain "VW" Bosch relay, one that has a noise suppression diode across the coil. This relay is Volvo PN 9130270, and is used in other places too, like fog lamps (position "F", empty if your car doesn't have front fogs). The parts catalog says its Blue.

 

I'll be checking the crank sensor this weekend as well.
And they put in a new volvo relay set thing for the radiator fan and I believe that relay blew already. So without my switch the fan never comes on, so mine will stay just temporarily until that's sorted. I at least wired it correctly through a relay so it won't blow or anything.
I'll check the fuel pump relay still, although do those relays have intermittent problems like the popular one on other models? My car seemed to only have problems once it was warmed up (other than the most recent time).

 

OK didn't have much time for the car over the weekend so just got the MAF cleaned. Haven't driven it to check anything, but before testing the crank sensor, should the car throw any codes if any of the sensors are causing the stalling? It's never had any codes pop up other than lean fuel a while back but that was cleared, and so far haven't gotten any new codes even after it's died multiple times.

 

To me, this sounds like the distributor cap could be bad. I have a 1992 240 wagon, and one day after driving it a while, the car would crap out and die on me. If I let it sit a while, it'd start up and drive a ways, but crap out again. I was in a city away from home, so I took it to the Volvo Dealership and it was $86 to have it replaced. It can be found on FCPEuro for around $7.

 

Sometimes you get codes when sensors fail, other times you do not. If you crank sensor fails, generally you don't get a code - at least when the crank sensor died on my daughter's car I never had a code on it.

Generally you can tell when a crank sensor is failing just by looking at it. If the wire has cracked and/or flaking insulation, then it is about to fail. There really isn't much to this sensor that can go wrong other than the wire.

 

OK, it's been a while since I posted but figured I'd let people know what happened. After being in and out of the shop 3 times, saying they fixed the problem with first, cooling fan and water pump, second was vacuum lines, and last was distributor cap and rotor. Still died after driving a while and had to be towed back. Finally they called and said we found the problem, the crank sensor wire was rubbed through and grounding out. So even though that was the first thing I asked to have changed or at least looked at, they fixed it. So now the car drives great, but the A/C is still out so won't be driving around in TX without that much. Thanks for all the help and suggestions, wish the shop would have listened.
Next on the list will be the A/C.