Hello,

New here but I have searched and read many posts, service manuals etc on my issue. I posted an introduction thread that explains I am working on reviving a 1978 242 that has been sitting for almost 30 years. The fuel system is obviously not operational but am working through it. First we found the fuel pumps were not working so we rigged up a separate system with a generic high pressure pump and verified pressure through the firewall mounted filter. Also the car runs on the cold start injector so fuel is passing through the distributor and is returning to the tank. The ignition system was checked and is operating properly as well as the pump relays. Additionally the air intake hose was removed and verified that the airflow sensor moves freely and lifted while the pump was running, no injector action unfortunately.

my theory is the center filter and plunger mechanism in the distributor is clogged up which would require splitting it open. I have read about this being a technical process to get right with no leaks but am confident I can perform the task. But am checking here to see if anyone has any ideas to not have to go this far if I don’t need to.

all said I have not tested the actual fuel pressure but believe that the pressure is proper. Two reasons one the pump is rated higher than the required 65-70psi and the return line has a constant flow back to the tank when the pump is running.

thanks for your help thus far (learned a lot already by searching and reading all I can) and in advance!

 

Your first step - requires a compatible fuel pressure gauge. You are just guessing by starting anywhere else.

You have pushed the fuel metering plate up with the fuel pumps running - and the injectors are not spraying (i trust you popped them out and laid them on the cam cover to check for any spray, while pushing the plate up from underneath) If the pressure is too low - the fuel distributor will not send fuel to the injectors (and they require considerable pressure to spray also) - and you don't know what the pressure is.

If the fuel system has not been used in 30 years - you will need more than just "cleaning" the clog from the fuel distributor. Gasoline turns into varnish when sitting - and the whole system will need work.

You might want to source a replacement control pressure regulator, fuel distributor, frequency valve (between the control pressure regulator and the fuel distributor) and injectors before you attempt to "split open" your fuel distributor. I have seen one apart - and I would not want to attempt to put one back together. I think you will find the cost of those items will far exceed the value of the car. Or if you are just doing this for fun - start with a fuel pressure gauge and measure line, control and rest pressures. I would be willing to bet those are not correct - and the car won't run, until they are.

If you want to make it run (in an afternoon) - put a carb conversion kit on it.

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/Volv..._p/p30-003.htm

 

Thank you.

Yes airflow sensor/ metering plate moved freely while system up to pressure (unknown amount to your point) and no spray from the injectors. I will put together a gauge set and see where that takes me.

my first goal is to hear it run and hopefully move under its own power. Sitting for almost thirty years I might have more than fuel delivery issues. At which point I have to weigh my options. I am hoping to get to that decision point as cheaply as possible.. haha..

 

There is resistance pushing the plate up against (some ) fuel pressure. If there is no resistance certainly the plunger could be stuck up - but if so - the injectors would be firing at full blast.

Carb kit? Yes I know that;s not cheap - but the car is in good shape, although realistically even though sort of "pretty" it's not worth very much. (there's not much collector value in a 1978 242.)

But get it to run and see if bring a trailer will take it - you never know!

What transmission does it have? Auto or 4/5 speed?

If it's an auto - the fluid may have turned into mud. (have seen that a couple of times) If you run the engine the transmission will self destruct if the trans fluid is not liquid anymore. (so carefully remove the trans oil pan to drain it, leaving the dipstick tube on it by removing the starter bolts)

 

Finally had a free weekend day that wasn’t raining…

Couldn’t say for sure what was wrong or what I did but after:
1. removing the injectors and clearing out one of them that was not spraying at all.
2. removing the boot between the intake manifold and the distributor, verifying the plate moved smoothly but with some resistance and then with fuel pressure the injectors spray.

After that it would not start immediately (then die immediately) like before but was acting like it was flooded. After letting it sit, clean off the plugs and cranking at WOT it fired up and ran. Seems whatever was the issue worked it’s way out as now it starts and runs great.

I’m still running a cobbled together fuel pump set up but was able to verify everything else works so it’s not a waste of money to through a few hundred dollars in pumps at it.

Auto trans was a quart and a half low but clear red fluid and works as it should.