b230ft seal housing and balance shaft problems

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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 07:16 PM
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Default b230ft seal housing and balance shaft problems

I have a 1985 740 turbo and I am having some problems with the timing belt. When I did the timing belt, I wanted to replace all the front seals. Instead of taking the crankshaft seal and balance shaft seal out by themselves, I took the seal housing out and cleaned it and put it back. I noticed when I torqued the bolts on the housing the balance shaft wouldn't even move. Does anyone know the torque spec for these bolts? Also is it crucial to use a OEM gasket? I just used RTV.

Right now I have it finger tightened and the shaft moves fine. Except it moves too easily and now it's really hard to put the belt back on. Any tips on putting the timing belt on so I can put proper tension the the belt between the balance shaft pulley and the crank boss?

Any help would be great, thanks!
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 11:47 PM
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I wouldn't torque those, just get them nice and not too tight... RTV should be fine. The Intermediate Shaft should move freely; it is not needed for the timing on your car as it has the distributor in the back of the head.

I pull the belt tightly from the crank to the I Shaft, then up to the cam, then around the cam, then the tensioner.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 12:14 AM
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the housing won't affect the Crankshaft or the intermediate shaft at all...but I think you meant to say the Crankshaft pulley sprocket bolt...that tightens the front guide plate and pulley boss...

Housing bolts Torque spec....Can't remember but can't be no more than 12 Ft-lbs but hand tighten is fine...RTV...is sketchy....try to use thin cardboard and RTV...as the gasket feels thin and cardboardie


Crankshaft pulley/sprocket bolt (B230)
Stage 1.........................................43 Ft-lbs
Stage 2.........................................Tighten 60 degrees further



You can tighten everything and you can still put your timing belt after.....how?
by grabbing the timing belt with both hands and sliding it between the Crankshaft pulley and the bottom of the housing....grab the belt like a sheet of paper...and slide up and push inside the bottom sprocket...
 
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 09:20 PM
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I just torqued the housing and it does affect the balance shaft. Perhaps it's in wrong? Is it possible that it popped out funny and I have to put it back in properly? The original gasket is definitely a cork plastic material just like a valve cover seal. I don't know if the gasket itself is a spacer for the balance shaft?

I guess what I am asking is, has anyone taken out the seal housing when doing the timing belt? If so did you have a problem with the back of the housing touching the balance shaft? Should the balance shaft move VERY freely? There is almost no restriction at all for me and it is getting scary. It definitely did not feel like that when I took it apart.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 12:48 AM
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you probably are missing the sprocket pin.....broke off or you did not place the sprocket and two spacers correctly.....something is wrong because the housing is just a cover...thats it...
 
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Old Jul 20, 2013 | 03:18 PM
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I am talking about the harmonic balancer not the crank. My balance shaft sprocket did not have any shims behind it.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 12:34 AM
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The only red blocks that have a balance shaft are the 16 valves, and they have two balance shafts.

do you mean the intermediate shaft, which on a 740 only drives the oil pump ? (on a 240, it drives the distributor, too)
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 07:06 PM
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It is a red block and it does not have a distributor on the balance shaft. I guess I mean the intermediate shaft then. The distributor is for sure on the back of the overhead cam shaft.

So does anyone know if this intermediate shaft will be affect by how tight the bolts are on the oil housing infront of the block? Sorry I am making this sound more confusing than it already is.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 12:54 AM
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I don't think so.....it is just a cover....with two or three bolts going to the oil pan...and a bunch other 10mm bolts to the block....you got guide pins the housing must go in and that's it....THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT DOES FREE PLAY ON MY 79 242, 87 240 wagon, 89 240 sedan all of them the shaft can be turned by itself.....in my case...turning the distributor.....in your case turning the oil pump.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 10:01 PM
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There are pins that go into the sides of the oil housing for sure. But these don't create space between the oil housing and the intermediate shaft.

I am guessing the oil pump is driven by gears on the intermediate shaft. Is there anyway I somehow made it come off or anything like that? I just don't remember my intermediate shaft being this loose when I took the oil housing off. Maybe I installed the wrong seal or just didn't drive it in all the way?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 10:01 PM
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Also does anyone know the factory torque specs for the oil housing bolts?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 11:16 PM
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the intermediate shaft has a worm gear of sorts machined into it that meshes with the gear on the end of the vertical shaft for the oil pump.

see Intermediate Shaft[7] here,


and oil pump shaft[17] here,


(thats the turbo configuration, a non-turbo has a somewhat different oil pump but its functionally equivalent)
 
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 09:22 PM
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Thanks Pierce! This really makes me feel that even I am not stupid enough to ruin anything by taking it off. Now if I can figure out the timing belt...
 
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