Hello again

This is a repeat question from my other thread. I think my other reply/question is not getting attention, therefor, I post this.

After continuing my examination of the front suspension I found that the boot on the passenger side was just "crinkeled" funny due to the position of the control arm. I started investigating the driver side and found a VERY badly worn ball joint. I removed the bad ball joint and strut attachment member and proceeded to remove the strut attachment member and found that the ball joint had to be VERY forcefully driven from the member. Upon examination of the member, it appeared that there was a gouge at the upper portion of the taper (like someone had mis-aligned the ball joint stud and tried to hammer it in), thus resulting in a metal build up at the top of the taper. Trying to seat the new ball joint stud did not seem right. Measuring the top of the taper resulted in a .5925 on the good diameter and about .580 at the damaged area. I meticulously filed the damaged area to match the proper diameter. Things seem to fit and look right now, although the ball joint stud turns while trying to put on the ny-lock nut.

My question is, Do I need to press this new ball joint stud into this tapered hole in the member. I used a vice, socket (as a hollow driving tool) and a hammer to set the ball joint stud into the taper of the member but it did not seem to take like a "morse taper" would.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again folks

regards

- rev -

 

get a 2 or 3 arm puller, that is how i got mine out. DONT GET A CHEAP ONE. I dd that too. I got a 2 arm one from autozone for $30 after I bent the crap out of the cheap one.