Howdy Gang,
My daughters '87 740 turbo's clutch disc seams to be seized to the flywheel.
We had a flood during September and her car had water above the
wheel hubs.The water got into the car and the computer had water on
the connections. After using a shop vac to clean the interior.
I cleaned all the connections and put some dielectric grease on them. New used computer and the motor started right up but the clutch doesn't disengage.

We jacked it up and see the clutch slave cylinder moving like it should,
so I figure the disc is rusted to the pressure plate or flywheel.

I tried to start it in first and it didn't break free.

Anybody have any good ideas on how to free the disc up? Short of dropping the transmission.
thanks
Hank

 

There's a little crack in the bottom of the bell housing. You could try a shot of WD-40 in there. The clutch would at least slip for a while until it burns off of evaporates if it works. If you have a tractor and a patch of ice then pavement, you could drag the car off the ice and onto the pavement in first. Another idea is dropping the drive shaft and rigging it up to an impact wrench. Just try not to be too much rougher than the engine would be on the transmission. It may rip some of the friction material off too, so you may end up replacing the clutch anyway.

Good luck.

 

Know this...the clutch disc and or pp is fubar'd. Since it is...spraying some sort of lubricant into it, normally a no-no, is worth a shot. I've had good luck breaking them loose by towing w/ another vehicle and dumping the clutch in 2nd or 3rd. It will break the clutch loose or simply break it. Are you certain there is no water in the transmission? Cuz you sure don't want to run it any distance with H2O in the tranny.

 

Thanks Guys,

The Car is sitting in my cold shop so I'll wait for a couple of days before checking for water in the tranny, when this cold spell is over.
I wonder if water could have gotten in the transmission through the main transmission shaft? Or is there a vent somewhere for the trans?

These 4speed manual w/OD use ATF , is that correct? I'll start my search now thanks

We have plenty of ice patches and some bare spots and our 4x4 Kubota pulled it to the shop so we will try that first.
I know it will have to come apart just trying to put off til spring.
cheers
hank

 

ATF type F or G. It will take 2.4 quarts. Make sure you can get the refill cap off too. Check this out: http://www.stepbystepvolvo.com/brassplug.html.

Also one thing that might be the easiest: start the car is first on a level surface (I've started my car in first before, it can do it). Just plan on not being able to stop when it starts going. Drive it around with the clutch pedal down and vary speeds in the extreme. You may want to let it warm up a little before you really start hammering it on. That's probably the best idea I can think of. It should put the most stress that you can afford to put on it with the most control. If that does not work, then you may have to ice it until you feel like dropping the transmission.

 

We raced up and down our long driveway--fast then slow and had a blast but the clutch is still seized
so I'll wait until this snow leaves and spring gets here, before I drop the transmission.
thanks for the ideas
cheers
hank

 

Well our snow has started to melt so I gave driving down the lane with the clutch pedal down and starting in gear one more time.

The road is clear of ice and snow, I'd give it gas and then slam on the brakes -- after a few minutes I noticed that the engine would rev and the car wasn't moving forward. The clutch freed up and feels good as ever.
I guess I'll see how long it lasts.
amazing
thanks
cheers
hank

 

I love it when a plan comes together!

 

Scorpius, go ahead and start your own thread on this. It will be easier for other people find similar problems. It's not related to a "Seized Clutch Disk," so make make a new thread for it and you'll get a lot more input and maybe help others who are looking for the same solution. I would suspect a bad fuel pump or pressure regulator.

One quick note, I would have my car towed before I would drive it on a lit oil light, unless I knew it was a false alarm. Running without oil pressure is a real good way to throw a rod and end an engine's life. Don't let it happen to you.

 

I went ahead and moved Scorpius's post and made a new thread. Mod magic!

 

Yay! You saved the day!