you said your pump is priming when you turn the key on? sounds like it isn't actually working then.

rumor has it a lot of replacement fuel pumps are mis-wired.

 

Yeah. When I turn the key to the on position number 2 I hear a sound but like I said I took the main hose in the engine bay off and put it in a cup and turned the key and it produced no fuel. The sound is kind of far the or dim to me although I didn't really pay a lot of attention to the sound when it was running good.

As far as mis wired I wired mine up the same per the stock pump. And it's been about 2.5 years since I did it and it's been running fine up until now.

A lot of things say fuel pump but there are other aspects at hand that can also effect the affects of the fuel pump. So I'm on what to do. I have pretty much ruled out all other simple things that it could be.

 

i am i am going to do a fuel pump replacement this afternoon. i dont normally like just replacing something not knowing if its bad.

but checklist of things i have done

checked for spark at spark plugs (strong spark)
checked for spark at coil (strong spark)
replaced the spark plugs
checked all fuses for #1 and #11 and ALL fuses in general
i swapped out the fuel pump relay but still getting same results

im throwing no CEL and getting 1-1-1 codes so all is clear there

on to the fuel aspect:
ive taken the main fuel line off on the engine side turned the ket heard the fuel pump prime but no fuel comes out into the cup as it should.
ive also removed the fuel pressure regulator fuel hose (not the vaccum line) and turned the key still no fuel.

ive replaced the fuel filter

so its pretty much dwindled down to the fuel pump itsself.

so i will replace it, if nothing it will have a new fuel pump its not a hard job but i hate just blindly replacing it. but all signs are pointing to a fuel pump issue.

 

its possible the pickup hose has fallen off the in-tank pump. in that case, it would only work with at least about 1/2 tank of fuel.

 

ok i got the fuel pump on, it was a very easy job, the only thing that was hard was actually getting the fuel pump, i had one put on order and then all of a sudden they didnt have it so i had to go to the hub to get it.

anyway i installed it and it seemed to improve the problem for instance it seems to crank a few times but starts without throttle help.

the old fuel pump's strainer was rust and dirty.

i still feel like it could be a stronger start, i mean it starts alot better now, but i feel like it could be better.

still not sure what else could be addressed

 

Could be the ignition switch slowly on it's way out. Maybe check that too.

 

it doesnt really seem like it fixed the problem completely.

it seems like it doesnt hold fuel pressure constant to the main fuel line going to the engine. to put it simply it seems like the fuel is while cranking going through the fuel lines to the engine, while it would seem that it should hold constant fuel pressure when the key is turned and the fuel primes for the starting of the engine.

given all i have gone down, and im not throwing a code it would seem that this must be mechanical in a sense that its not tripping the obd system given a code.

im really at this point lost, i mean it starts, and it runs really good. but i cant get a consistant start,

 

Well, just for kicks, since you have changed everything else, why don't you change the Coolant Temp Sensor like I suggested a while ago and solve your problems?

 

I guess I could try that I know with my Nissan of the cts is bad it can go lean or rich maybe it's the same with the volvo?

I swear it runs so good I just wish the starting mimic the running. Doesn't stall, misfire, pulls, nothing runs like it should.

It could be something really stupid or really serious I don't know which though.

 

i have the same problem on my 91 740 turbo m46 takes like 30 to 45 sec of cranking to start, some times would start normal.
i installed a new URO CTS sensor to only get a CTS code so i clear the code and put the original Bosch and no more CTS code so if you buy CTS sensor order the Bosh.


only thing i believe would help is to leave the key on the on position before start cranking.


lucky the 740 is not my daily.


car is super fast once it starts.
ipd cam
tlao chips ecu&ezk
15g
mbc at 15 psi
welded diff

 

Yeah unfortunately this is my daily my "fast" car is a 500hp fully built Nissan. Sentra. It is like driving a explosion. Stupid fast.

The volvo is lowered with beilstein struts and some kind of springs 2" drop in front 1.5" In back, off white in color with 2.5% tint and a euro license plate that says 1 vit vagon....other than that it's stock..oh also black trimming on the side and black rear hatch....Also some kind of lip

I love my volvo as much as my Nissan and I have a pretty penny in the nissn

 

500hp nice


i keep working on the issue this weekend hopefully i can fix it before the E85 conversion.

 

well hopefully you can figure it out to give me some kind of idea. becuase i am really all out at this point.

i dont wanna go dumping money in this or that part, i dont work like that, throwing money at a problem till you replaced the right part.

i thought i felp like i narrowed down what was wrong, but i dont feel like that so such so.

fuel pump is priming i know this from putting it in a bowl of gas and turning the key to pos 2 and gas came out. also cranked the engine and gas kept flowing out (of the new pump)

so essentially i would think that

#1 #1 AND #11 Fuses are fine and working
#2 fuel pump is priming and providing fuel when cranking
#3 i would assume if the fuel pump is priming the fuel pump relay must be good tried 2
#4 replaced the fuel filter
#5 have more than a half a tank of gas

# 6 I have strong arch of spark from the coil
# 7 i have strong arch from the spark plug wires
# 8 ive replaced the spark plugs
# 9 im throwing no codes and get all 1-1-1 in #2 socket
# 10 like #7 no codes no CEL Light

# 11 i have a K&n filter on my car its clean as can be
# 12 checked all clamps on intake system all are good
# 13 Checked all hoses for cracks or leaks all is hood
# 14 ive cleaned off all connectors with connector cleaner
# 15 O2 sensor was replaced about a year ago
# 16 iacv seems to be working fine idle is steady and again no cel
# 17 Checked all grounds
# 18 Cleaned the air intake temp semsor

only thing so far i havent replace are:

coolant temp sensor (CTS could be causing a Lean Condition Thus starting issue)
crank position sensor (but again not throwing any codes or cel's either)
Ignition Switch
Rotor Cap
Rotor Button
Spark plug wires havent been changed either (but per my inspection they look good)
i havent replaced the 2 relays up from for fuel system
distributor

so that still leaves a bit of possible possibilities.

 

the badly named "radio suppression" relay supplies power to the fuel injectors. has that been checked?

 

there is a part of the fuel assembly on my car that i dont see on other assembly's between where there should be a hose that goes to the fuel pump to the fuel pump assembly primarily the one that put out fuel to the engine.

i instaid of having a hose have this part thats like a metal/plastic piece it has 2 humps on it and rubber orange material inside.

i wonder if i should have removed that piece and put a small piece of hose instead of keeping that on?

arrow is pointing to what im talking about, it doesnt seem like it would be as solid if i put a hose between the fuel pump and the hose on the assembly part maybe its not holding pressure cause the need to once trying to start having the fuel pump to reflow fuel from the tank to them engine causing this prolonged start?

another thing i thought was kinda odd was the quick release valve that you pull and it releases the grip on the nipple, i could just slip it off with my hand, i noticed no leaks though at the assembly before i took it apart, but that doesnt mean its not, not holding pressure.

i donno damn i could come up with a thousand things or reasons ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

 

I would check the radio suppression relay this weekend,
I have new spark plug wires,new spark plugs,new fuel filter
I replace the ecu & ezk to install chips and the problem continue.


I have a daily 940 starts with no problem, maybe I can swap some parts and see how goes.

 

one way to verify that the radio supression relay is working is to unplug an injector, and switch the ignition on (II) and use a volt meter. one side of the injector is powered from the RP relay, and the other side goes to the ECU. so, if you test the voltage between ground and each of the injector connector pins, if the RP relay is working one will be a solid 12V (battery voltage) while the other will be floating (it might read close to 12V). if the RP relay is dead, one pin will be 0V (open circuit, really). all 4 injectors are wired in parallel (they all fire together).

another, better test, is to get a 'noid light', which plugs into the injector connector... crank the car, and the noid light should blink, if it doesn't then the injectors arent being fired or powered.

 

You mentioned that you suspect there's no pressure in the line when you start the car. Did you make sure the main fuel pump check valve is functional?

 

its a regina fuel system so no inline fuel pumps, only in tank, where would this check valve be located

 

The check valve on my car was screwed right into the main fuel pump under the car.

This guy had a problem of no pressure in his fuel lines at startup. According to them, the check valve is right on the fuel pump inside the tank. Maybe that part you are pointing to in your picture is the check valve?

93 regina 940 fuel check valve? - Turbobricks Forums