I just moved this from another forum based on what anoptyher emmber said. Hey guys i have my non turbo 740 sedan and it doesnt wan to start, can you help?

the problem is intermitten, it will start 75% of the time but the other 25% it just cranks and cranks. if i leave it sit for a day it'll fire right back up. I think that it is some kind of electrical issue Have any of you guys seen this before? I have replaced the coil (which did fix it once) and the fuel filter (routine maintenance) other than that it is a bone stocker with about 95,000 miles on it. Thanks for any help guys.

norbert

 

What are you missing when it won't start?
Injector pulse?
Spark?
Fuel?

You need to start looking at the basics when it won't start.

 

I ran the diagnostic check using the sensior by the right strut tower according to this site :

http://www.troublecodes.net/Volvo/


It says lambda adjustment, code 2-3-2

WTF is that?

 

Bad O2 sensor for 94 and older......

or

"Fuel Pressure Regulator

The fuel pressure regulator is the other item that can cause trouble. The pressure can be checked with a fuel pressure gauge, costing about $25 or so (Autometer as one source from Lordco or DIY at brickboard.com. If the system is running rich, one fault might be high fuel pressure due to a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Occasionally, the FPR may temporarily fix itself simply by releasing the pressure while connecting the gauge. If the error code goes away and returns soon after the FPR is at fault. The error code of 1-2-1 will usually be accompanied by either 2-3-2 or 2-3-1. The pressure should normally be about 300 kPa; a reading of 800 kPa would be far too high resulting in incorrect operation. Examining the spark plugs may also disclose a mixture fault."

or


"Hesitation, Poor Idle: ECU Failure with Codes 2-3-1; 2-3-2. [Tip from Al Nettleton] Symptoms:

1. Error codes 2-3-2 & 2-3-1 (Mixture too lean or rich)
2. O2 sensor replaced with no success
3. If the error codes were read & cleared, they come back almost immediately
4. If the ECU is unplugged (or the battery disconnected), the codes clear but come back after about 150 miles. For the first 50, or so, of these, idle is rough, next 50 - hesitation from a standing stop, the last 50 - runs well. BUT . . .
5. Running lean.

Successful repair required replacing the air mass meter (AMM), intake bellows between AMM and throttle body, and ECU. Parts swapping confirmed the need for all three. One important finding - the air bellows can leak at the end connections, even though there are no cracks or holes in the bellows and the clamps are tight. Apparently they get to be so inflexible that a good seal is not possible. We should now be ready for another 100K. "

 

Called volvo and they say that the lambda nor the idle air voltage coeds (i ran it twice) will prevent the car from running. He told me to chekc the injector for pulse signal and then go from there. Thoughts, this is really getting to be a problem (it sucks being poor)

 

Change your fuel relay, the white colored one...

 

the thing is, its getting fuel to the rail. DOes the relay control the injectors also?

 

The relay works the pump.The injectors are controlled by the ECU.The relay is one possibility that should be eliminated in your search.

 

I unplugged the two relays behind the drivers side strut tower cleaned them a little and plugged them in, now the car runs good. i have no clue why but it runs fine now. beats me.

 

one of them is the "radio supression relay" ( I know weird name on it) witch opens up the injectors. and alows fule to flow through them.