We have a 1994 940 Turbo that came into the shop with a intermitten engine cut out problem when ambient temperatures reach 80-95 degrees, we also found a idle surge problem. So far we have not been able to repeat the cut out problem, but we have been working on the idle control system and according to the repair info we have through Mitchell it doesn't seem to match the car, we called it into Mitchell and they pulled the data from the Volvo site and said it was correct. What we are missing is the base idle air adjusting screw, Co mixture on the air flow sensor (no bull plug at all), and the plug you need to ground so you can set your base idle.
I also checked the next model year and previous one also, still nothing seems to match of what's really under this hood. The engine looks original it doesn't look someone did a swap out, we can tell.

We are looking to find out if anybody has run into this problem before.

 

Call Mitchell back and tell them to get their collective heads out of their buttocks! Volvo switched the turbo motors to LH 2.4 Jetronic in 1990! There is no CO adjustment on the 016 AMM No base idle screw on the throttle body. All that went away with the demise of LH2.2 last used in 89. The ecu sets idle on LH2.4 cars. If it isn't finding idle most likely the iac has failed or the iac circuit on the ecu is toast. The connector or hoses on the iac may be compromised as well. There actually is a way to set base idle in 2.4 systems and I'll include that in a moment...the intermittent cutout temp related sounds like a sensor/relay failure for sure. Places to look? Ignitor-driver inner fender near headlight, radio suppression relay located on earlier models on the overflow bottle bracket...I think by 94 they had moved it elsewhere, crank sensor dying will do this. Fuel pump relays will too, but that usually is different in nature than ignition falling smack off. Assuming you can fix it with this info, it's a split right?
Here's how to set the base idle...I really don't think you need to jack with it, ok? I'm thinking the iac needs some tlc...but just in case, here it is...
Setting Base Idle Specs and TPS on Bosch LH2.4-Equipped
Cars .
Adjusting the LH2.4:
1. Adjusting Idle Linkage Rod.
Ensure that when the cable drum is pushed off its end stop with a 2.5
mm feeler blade, the gap between throttle lever and adjustment
screw is from 0.1 and 0.45 mm. (This is the adjustment screw that
mounts on the throttle lever, not the adjustment of the larger nut
that attaches the lever to the throttle plate shaft). To achieve the
above spec, adjust the throttle link rod (ball-socketed connection rod
between drum and throttle lever)
2. Checking the Throttle Body (Plate and Throttle Position Switch)
Adjustment
Connect an accurate tachometer then warm up the engine. Let it idle
in Park with a/c off. Pinch off the hose between the air intake and the
IAC valve (don't damage the hose with something sharp!) Idle speed
should drop below 500 rpm, or the engine may stop: both are
normal. If idle speed does not drop, adjust as below.
3. Adjusting the Idle Speed
On the front side of your throttle body, there is an adjustment screw.
Loosen the lock nut. Start the engine and turn the adjustment screw
until idle is 480-520 rpm. Switch off the engine and tighten the lock
nut while holding the adjustment screw so it doesn't turn.
4. Checking the TPS Adjustment.
Check the gap between the adjustment screw and the throttle lever
with a feeler gauge. Insert a .45mm feeler gauge. There should be
no click from the Throttle Position Switch on the rear side of the
throttle body when the throttle is closed. Then insert a .15mm feeler
gauge. There should be a click from the TPS when the throttle is
closed. If these are incorrect, then adjust as below.
5. Adjusting the TPS.
Loosen the TPS adjustment screws holding it to the throttle body.
First turn the TPS clockwise (away from the electrical connector) until
it stops. While keeping your finger on the throttle disk so it won't
move, turn the TPS counter-clockwise (toward the connector) until
you hear or feel a click. Continue turning until it stops, then tighten
the screws. Go back to step 3 above to check the adjustment.

 

Thanks for the input, I also called Mitchell back and reamed them pretty hard about it, they are suppose to get back to me on how this happened.

 

I had Mitchell for several years here at the shop, now have AllData. They both suck!

 

You are missing all that stuff because it is not on there...You cannot technically set "base idle" on this year Volvo...It has a crank angle sensor to control timing? Even the 91 940T's have a crank angle sensor...Just like on post 88 240's there is no big black screw on the throttle body anymore and it uses a 016 MAF...it's a closed system, self timed etc...distributor is gutless...you should still be able to adjust idle by backing off screw on throttle plate but it's not like truly setting a "base idle" like you would on a pre 89 240...hope this helps and good luck

 

^^^lol

 

what does this mean?

 

sorry swift did not read your entire post..seems like you covered it pretty well...yeah crank angle sensor, non adjustable MAF, no screw on throttle body...