Just what does a dirty flame trap look like?!

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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 03:25 PM
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Default Just what does a dirty flame trap look like?!

First off, hello. I am in the process of servicing the flame trap, mainly because of several small oil leaks in my 1989 240 wagon. I really expected the flame trap the be mucked up and clogged, however blowing through the flame trap results in smooth flow of air. I can also see through the holes in the old flame trap. Once removed and after my makeshift "blow test", I used a paper clip to push through each hole and yielded some hard carbon deposits, but no sludge. So will these small deposits that only decrease the diameter of the flame trap holes increase the pressure in the engine?

I will not drive the car again until this issue is resolved as the last time I parked the Volvo, it dumped about a half cup of oil.

I have ordered the oil separator box, o ring for under it and an entire flame trap kit(since I broke the plastic housing the flame trap resides as the flame trap seemed to be melted to the housing). Am I on the right track?
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 10:35 AM
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Like this if you have serious problems. Otherwise that stuff would be black with normal carbon buildup.



Sounds like yours has been cleaned in the past; if you could see through the holes before cleaning it, your're good. Doesn't hurt to replace the oil trap either to make sure that is not clogged, but be careful about aftermarket ones. Supposedly, they can crack at the seam and create negative ventilation, thus blowing seals like you are trying to prevent doing . Keep and eye on the aftermarket one if you buy it, or just clean the original one you have on the car, as well as all holes and hoses the system is connected to.

Welcome BTW.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Burn Stains
Like this if you have serious problems. Otherwise that stuff would be black with normal carbon buildup.



Sounds like yours has been cleaned in the past; if you could see through the holes before cleaning it, your're good. Doesn't hurt to replace the oil trap either to make sure that is not clogged, but be careful about aftermarket ones. Supposedly, they can crack at the seam and create negative ventilation, thus blowing seals like you are trying to prevent doing . Keep and eye on the aftermarket one if you buy it, or just clean the original one you have on the car, as well as all holes and hoses the system is connected to.

Welcome BTW.
Thanks for the help... I pulled the oil trap and while it is not totally clogged, it has build up about 1/4" all around allowing for a lot less flow of air. I ordered a replacement. But I am perplexed, upon removal of the oil box, I noticed a silicone sealant was used to install the last box. The sealant was a clear sealant and not like any high temp sealant I have seen. The sealant was only used around the oil return tube(I think that is what it is called!) and not used around the o-ring. Should I use a sealant as well?

The picture below shows the "clogged artery" on top of the oil box, air flow is still present, so I hope I am on the right track


This image shows the area the silicon sealant was applied around the hole on the left
 

Last edited by The_Watcher; Apr 4, 2012 at 09:27 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 04:45 PM
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You should not have to use sealant, just the o-ring.
 
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