1993 240 Classic Wagon
My license plate lamps are both out. My front right parking lamp is out (not sure if that is the proper name--it is the upper orange lamp on the front right side).
I have changed the bulbs. I have checked and changed the fuses. All are still out. All other lamps as far as I can tell are working fine.
Given the distance from the tail gate to the front, I assume there could be a wiring problem somewhere. Do you have any other hints?
I'm puzzled by the front lamp, since the turn signal works and I would think the wiring for both lamps in the same assembly would work together.
Do you have anything easy I need to look at? I am not comfortable with electrical systems and wiring, but I am not averse to trying it if I can be confident on what needs to be fixed.
I need these fixed for inspection.

Thank in advance!
Todd

 

For the tag lights I would check for broken wires in the tailgate hinges. They have to bend 90 degrees with every tailgate opening and only last a few years. Wires are in both hinges for the 3rd brake light, tag light, rear window defrost and electric door lock. RF parking lamp is probably a bad connection in the socket - may require a new light assembly ( or interesting rigging to replace the socket)

The First thing you need is a less than $10 test light. You will be able to check power and ground wiring. The best way to fix the tailgate wiring is a new harness (if it is broken), remove corner of headliner, take hinge off, (securely support door) , take cargo panel off and the short harness is easily installed - not sure if the link is the correct one for your car - it's just there for illustration and for ~$11 would be a lot easier than trying to fix yours. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...BoCaFYQAvD_BwE

 

Your lic plate lights are probably out due to the wiring passing through the tail gate hinge, likely a break there...
The front corner light should not be related to the lic plate lights. You'll have to trace the lack of current flow back to the source. Probably a break somewhere there too, as the turn signal works but the parking light part does not.

 

Hoonk and Lev,
Thank you for the quick help!
It does look like both wire harnesses are shot. For the front, it looks like switching out the assembly will not be difficult or expensive.

Hoonk,
I am an electro-phobe. Which leads to a pretty healthy amount of electricity ignorance. So bear with me. I have a multi-meter. Does that do the same or similar job as what you listed above?
Todd

 

Certainly - A voltage measurement is more accurate than a light bulb lighting up. Although I had a tech who was very well educated with a 4 year college degree and a 2 year automotive tech school degree/with good natural skills (who was in the factory Porsche training school and got booted out after a drug test - we can make bad decisions can't we?), anyway he would get very confused and make bad (wrong ) diagnosis using his volt/ohmmeter, when a simple test light would diagnose the problem correctly.

Modern volt/ohmmeters are so sensitive and with auto ranging you will get numbers that lead to the wrong conclusions. With a test light - it's on, dim, or not!

 

i think the parking light will be one circuit
signal left another circuit signal right another circuit.
might be the same bulb if it has 2 pins

check fuseholders , bulb sockets. any cheapo meter or test lamp will work ok
check for power at sockets. of course you need to have battery connected during that test.

you can check bulbs to see some resistance or replace. look for oxydised bulb pins- clean or replace
resistance tests are not hard but you need a meter . an analog one with a meter is fine. maybe less confusing, 30 bucks or so..if you arent confident you can learn as you go so look up how to check resistance..don't fear learning and create a mental block.. if you are confused we can break it down to baby steps..lots of online tutorials on youtube..

use the correct bulbs not just ones that fit

you can splice the broken wire

this issue may not be a bad fuse ,but to prevent issues..
i'd unhook the battery, note fuse locations
then remove all the fuses then 3 screws hold in the fuse holder strip
remove the plastic panel near the fusebox.
pull it out a bit for good access.clean it well. little wire brush.check get it good and shiny. all the spade connectors by pulling one off at a time. don't loose track of where they go. if any feel loose squeeze them up carefully.
after you get the contacts clean put a tiny bit of electrical dielectric grease ..it'll prevent other issues.
replace dirty fuses if chorroded
carefull inspect if all the fuses are sitting right and no fuse tips are damaged.use a magnifying glass.


it will take 1 hour but this WILL prevent more issues and be worth that hour by not getting you stuck and confused.
do similar with bulb sockets and bulbs- battery disconnected when cleaning.

deoxit is a good spray cleaner for cobtacts. its expensive so use sparingly.

rear bulbs use a stupid printed circuit like membrane. be careful with it. they often get damaged. the bulb holders are awkward things you can mark the top of each one..it's a high failure point.
as you go, clean any ground points you find. remove the screw clean well.
old volvos are safe cars but the tail lamp holders are poorly made. ive gone to the extent of switching to standard type sockets before to fix those issues but that's a job.. yors is a late model so maybe there were improvements but they seemed to cheapen them from 80's to 90 or so by using. even thinner membranes..

volvos are sensitive so you will see the bulb failure lamp if you use incorrect bulbs or have bad contacts. it compares the resistance of one side compared to other side.

dirty contacts cause intermittent issues so if you dont like troubleshooting then keeping all that clean will prevent issues rather than running in
circles

id pay attention to the ground contacts especially the ground on the alternator to the block.. it should be near the water pump. and you might have leads that run from the alternator near the front of the oilpan and oil attacks that insulation. thats another problem area..