I'm trying to figure out why my 1989 245 DL won't start.

I'm using the LH 2.4 complete manual (downloaded the .pdf) and am on step D2 which states connecting terminal 30 and terminal 87/2 on the fuel pump relay should cause the pumps to run, nothing is happening. When checking for voltage at terminal 30 I'm showing less than 3v, is this normal? If not, should I just run battery voltage to that terminal? Where does the original wire lead so I can inspect it for damage?

When I jump fuses 4 and 6 together, the pumps run, but the car still won't start.

The car has the 2.4 diagnostic port, though I can't seem to get it to read any codes.

Parts I've replaced thus far: Battery, in-tank fuel pump (main pump works and fuel filter was changed a little over a year ago), fuel pump relay and CPS

The car is also a pink label ECU, can someone point me towards a list of suitable white label replacements? Will I need to change the ICU as well?

Any help is greatly appreciated, I love this car.

 

pin 30 of the fuel pump relay should be a heavy red wire coming off the 25Amp FI fuse on the left fender behind the battery. on some later cars, this was moved to fuse position 6 in the main fuse panel. as long as the fuse is good, that should always be full battery voltage.

 

Thanks Pierce, looks like I've got some wire inspecting to do. I think I'll change the fender fuse and get an all weather socket while I'm at it, I'll have a better look at my fuse panel and look for some new 'pills' too.

 

240s' use those nasty european style 'ceramic' fuses... you can't find the good ones at most american car parts stores, just Buss or Littlefuse bubblecards with tin/alumninum fuses.

get yee onto fleabay and search for 'mercedes w123 w124 fuses', these are the REAL things, the fuse elements are copper or brass, the fuse body is ceramic rather than plastic. the mixed kit for a benz (w123/124 are the 1980s/early 90s 300E/300D family) are enough to do 2 volvo 240's and then some.

clean the fuse holder contacts with a soft clean rubber pencil eraser (NOT something abrasive like sandpaper), this removes the oxide without removing the plating.

 

Okay!! Got the new fuses from ebay, cleaned the terminals in the panel with an eraser and installed the new fuses, and replaced the underhood 25a which brought full voltage to my fuel pump relay (note to self: visual inspection of fuses is a useless method)

When I turn the car over it's now trying to run, occasionally coughing a bit, I can also hear the fuel pump relay clicking repeatedly while cranking. I'm going to let the car sit a bit, maybe add some new gas (it's been in there over two months) and try it again.

My question now is, should the pump relay be clicking back and forth like that while cranking?

I know I should be running back through the manual diagnostic, but I've dug the car out from under 2+ feet of snow twice now, would love to get it running and into a warm shop space to do things like replace the underhood fuse terminal and finish the diagnostic.

 

the fuel pump relay should turn on when it starts cranking and stay 'on' until about 1 second after the engine stops moving. so, no, it shouldn't be clicking repeatedly.

 

Intriguing, looks like it'll be a chilly evening for me tomorrow,

 

Just a thought here. Have you inspected the fuel pump relay tab connectors inside the connector? Those can get warm, and form poor connections.

Best of Luck
Fred