I have a '93 240 with manual transmission, and my clutch cable was getting a bit rough/sticky. I tried to lubricate it with spray lube, but it's so hard to get at the top of the cable (you have to lay on the floor with your head under the dash and hold the can in a crazy way, and then only a drop or two gets in the cable housing).

I finally had an unconventional idea, and I tried it, and it worked beautifully. I decided to make my own oiler, inspired by the oilers on old tools (like my 1940's wood lathe). I basically wanted a little reservoir in an accessible location under the hood that would drip oil into the cable housing.

I started by finding a convenient high spot on the cable housing near the brake master cylinder. I needed a way to cut a neat, round hole in the plastic sheathing of the cable housing without damaging the metal part of the housing. What I wanted was a tiny hole saw that would only cut through plastic, not steel. I happened to find a spent .22 bullet shell and put that in my drill and carefully drilled a tiny core out of the plastic sheathing on the cable housing. I was careful to have this "hole" facing as straight up as possible. When I was done drilling, I could see the spiral metal coil that gives the cable housing its stiffness, and I could see a seam between the coils. That is important because the oil needs to seep through the seam. (Do NOT try to drill through the metal of the housing with a drill bit; you would certainly damage the cable itself.)

Once I had this hole in the plastic sheathing, I found a piece of 3/8" stiff plastic tubing (in the plumbing section of a hardware store). I cut about an inch and a half of this tubing and then, with a rat-tail file, I made a cylindrical groove in one end of the tube so that it would fit neatly over the hole in the clutch-cable sheathing, perpendicular to the cable. I then cleaned both the tubing and the sheathing with rubbing alcohol. Then I put super-glue on the coped end of the PVC tubing and glued it over the hole in the sheathing, clamping it in place for several hours. (Don't let anyone tell you super-glue is instant; it does not achieve full strength for hours.). The super glue seemed to hold pretty well, but I didn't fully trust it, so I also applied a generous amount of silicone caulk to the joint, building it up to create some diagonal bracing of the joint.

Now I was finally ready to lubricate. I filled the short tube with synthetic oil (actually the same stuff I use in my wood lathe). I chose synthetic because I knew it would have no problem seeping through the seam in the metal part of the cable housing. I let the oil run through the seam (it took a good half hour) and filled it up a couple more times. I also was careful not to spill because I wanted to make sure my joint wasn't leaking oil (not that it would have been a big deal if it did). I then found a rubber cap (it was actually a foot for something that happened to be the right diameter) and slipped it over the PVC tube to prevent dust from entering the tube.

This worked beautifully. The first time I drove the car I noticed an immediate, huge improvement in the motion of the clutch. I later got more daring about oil and used non-synthetic, lightweight oil, and it also seeped through, and I think it may have worked better because it hung around longer. Now I refill the little reservoir each time I check or change the engine oil.

 

I would have replaced the cable. Also because the cable was getting stiff/hard to move means that the rust is already attacking it and the lubrication is temporary . I suspect the cable will snap shortly and then you'll need to learn how to start the car in gear and shift without a clutch. Then again there is always the tow truck to the rescue. Good luck

 

It was not that hard to move before I lubricated it, but you could feel that it was harder than it had been in the past. I think if it were rusty inside, it would not feel so smooth now. It really feels good now, like brand new.

 

As I mentioned the smoothness is a temporary condition. These cables rust and start to weaken. It may not get hard with the lubricant but most likely it has completely rusted. So if it is the cable and not the clutch or throw out linkage it will snap. Better to change it then risk it breaking on the road. It's a simple job to change. Good luck.

 

I'm always amazed at the engineering that people go through to avoid spending a dollar. Here's a few clutch cables that Rock Auto sells in various price points.

I can buy a new clutch cable for less than it takes me to have pizza delivered. I'm not sure why anyone would engineer a lubricating device on a $15 part that is 25+ years old.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tch+cable,1972

 

Thanks for the feedback. I feel like I should explain my perspective a little more.

It bugs me how so many items are designed to be disposable. Most mechanical items with metal rubbing on metal used to be easy to lubricate. Why don't they do that anymore? I think we should be maintaining things so they last a long time rather than throwing them in a landfill. We talk about the three "R's" (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle). I like to add the fourth "R:" Repair. Besides, isn't making things last nearly forever what Volvos are all about?

Also, the lubricator addition I did only took about 15 minutes (not counting glue drying time). I imagine replacing the clutch cable would take longer than this (just getting at the pedal end to try to lube it from under the dash was a huge pain). So I think I saved some time as well as some money.

Jagtoes, I'm wondering how long you think my cable will last (in miles or time). I'll be glad to report back as to whether it fails before then, but I suspect it will last a good long time because I lubed it before it got too bad.

Thanks,

Eric

 

It is hard to tell at this point as they usually break down at the area near the bell housing TO bearing lever. The reason for the cable getting harder is that rust is attacking the twisted wire cable and the outer sheath. If you were to cut it in half you will most likely find that all strands of the inner wire are rusting. As you press in the clutch this cable will stretch. So how long it will last depends on how much you use the car. By lubricating the sheathing you only are getting a small area of the cable wet. So once you notice it getting harder to press it is to late. So it is not how long it will last but where and when it will break. So do the math , replace the cable for $25 or have the car breakdown 25 miles from home and get it towed and then repaired. Pay me now or pay me later. Hopefully you're not behind someone at a traffic light when it breaks.

 

I dunno about these Volvo clutch cables (never had a stickshift volvo) but many cables in newer applications have a plastic coating on the cable, or liner on the sheathing, and if you add a petroleum based lubricant, this plastic will swell up and bind, making things worse. I know this is true for many bicycle brake and shifter, and motorcycle clutch cables made in the 90s and later.

 

I'm considering designing a solar-powered oil pump system that pumps fresh oil into the cable and then returns used oil back to the tank, oil cooler and then filter. I've designed it with a 4 quart capacity and use synthetic oil.

So, the cable will be lubricated until time itself comes to an end as long as the sun shines on the solar collector. The annual oil change will be about $25. The equipment ads a modest $2500 to the cost of the car.

It is a very efficient system.

 

say huh? cables that are bare steel and not plastic lined should be lubricated with a grease that will stay put. on my bicycles and motorcycles, I used the green marine waterproof ball bearing grease. one application when the cable is installed lasts for years and years.

 

The Volvo cables have a plastic sheath over the steel wound housing similar to a bike cable. Inside is twisted wire rope also steel. There is a rubber boot at the ends to keep water out but after a while it loses it's seal. Also the cable goes through heat/cool cycles and with condensation the rust will start. We had a 164 and a 240 with manual transmission. On the 164 the plastic sheath cracked over time and water/condensation got in and rusted the inner cable. Replaced it after the plastic started peeling off. On the 240 the rubber boot on the bottom split and water started the rusting process. It snapped while we were out shopping. I had to start it in gear and rev match shifting until we got home. Not a fun ride and rough on the starter and gearbox. I bought 2 cables and put one in the trunk. Our 740 is automatic and now the parts in the trunk are a FP relay and a Radio suppression relay.

 

Well, the clutch cable in question lasted another 7,909 miles, and now I'm ready to replace it. (It didn't break, but it has a squeak that doesn't go away when I add oil). I ordered a new cable that is coated in plastic, and I assume the housing also has a plastic liner. My question is whether to lubricate it at all and, if so, what should I use. Based on some of the comments above, I gather that I should not just use a petroleum-based lubricant.

Thanks,

Eric

 

The new cable comes pre-lubricated and does not require any lubrication. I also don't know if there is an inner coated liner but if is the same as the OEM it did not have this. The only coating was over the outside of the cable. This is the water/seal protection. As far as life I would replace it at the end of the next 100K miles.

 

Okay. Thank you.

 

if the inner cable IS plastic coated don't use any sort of lube on it, or it will fail prematurely.

 

Thanks. I have now installed it and did not lubricate it at all. It seems to be working fine.