My car:
'95 Volvo 944 non turbo
130,000 miles

So over the past year, my cooling system has seemed to have a lot of leaks..or so I've been told. I've had the water pump replaced and various hoses (I think that's what they were) replaced. Yesterday, I realized that my engine begain to overheat, I put in a full can of antifreeze mix, took it over to my mechanic, and after looking at it, he says I've got a leaking head gasket and parts + labor will be $850. Is it even worth it to get it fixed? Is he overcharging me?

The other thing is I was thinking about upgrading my car by the end of September to something a little more recent that is more economical when it comes to fuel consumption...I'm not ready to buy yet, leading to why I'm conflicted... I guess I'm just looking for any sort of help here.

Thanks!

 

I'd fix it myself , the B230 engines are simple.
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...eplacementTips

 

Hmm...that sounds like a good idea, but I don't really have any mechanical experience at all, or the tools necessary. Just reading those headgasket replacement "directions," i'm getting confused.

 

hi there, I just did my head for the first time it was easy (240dl)very simple just need tools.car runs great you should at least try or pay 800///////

 

Buying the tools would stillleave you with several hundred dollars savings.
There is no timing chain to deal with, just a rubber belt.
Sockets, ratchet, breaker bar, extensions and a torque wrench.
These websites, for volvo nuts, emphasize diy.
With every project I bought a few more tools to completea job and I've got a decent box now,
and I'm thousands ahead. I don't know how many of us could afford to keep a volvo running if we paid the mechanics.

 

Do you guys have mechanical experience or what? I've never really done anything with an engine...I fear screwing up and making things worse.

 

Its almost so easy a "Cave Man can do it"
If you can read a manual and turn a wrench you should be able to do it.
We can help with any quiestions you may have.

 

Hmm...This sounds like something I'll have to consider.

So..I'm reading that guide and am pretty confused, but I think some pictures might help me. I know how an engine works and all, but could not point things out in an engine. Are there any pictures that could maybe go along with that guide?

And what exactly is it that a machine shop has to do? And how do I find a machine shop? I guess I could ask mechanics where they go.

Also, could you guys direct me to or list for me a tools (and whatever else I need) list?

This sounds like a great way to get a little handy and to learn about cars, but like I said, I'm deathly scared of messing something up and having my engine totally crap out on me on the road.

Thanks

 

remember, if you don't know how to fix your automobile...you do not need it.

it's pretty simply to do it yourself, or pretty expsensive to have someone else do it for you.

the machine shop portion is regarding flAT and even mating sufaces which will help ensure a proper seal.

 

I'm a chef.
Your engine is kaput already.!
REMOVAL PROCEDURES
When removing the B230 cylinder head:
[ol][*]Drain the cooling system at the radiator and the block, disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the intake manifold and exhaust manifold (discard the old manifold lock nuts).[*]Remove all drive belts and the water pump pulley. Remove the fan, preheater hose, and fan shroud and timing belt cover.[*]Using the center bolt on the crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft so the mark on camshaft pulley aligns with the TDC mark on the timing belt cover, and the crankshaft pulley mark aligns with TDC mark on timing belt cover (see Fig. 2).[*]Loosen the belt tensioner nut one turn. Pull off the timing belt to compress the belt tensioner spring. Tighten the belt tensioner nut. Then install a 3mm drill bit in the hole of the belt tensioner bolt to lock the tensioner spring into place.[*]This might be a good time to replace that worn-out belt. If not, mark the belt with the camshaft sprocket, using typing correction fluid to ease installation.[*]Remove the spark plug wires and distributor cap. Remove the cylinder bolts in the proper sequence and remove the cylinder head (see Fig. 3). Volvo recommends replacing the head bolts if they are stretched or used more than five times. As mentioned earlier, when in doubt, replace them! [/ol]

 

^Hmm...yeah, I read that already, but it's all another language to me.

And can anyone tell me the signs of a leaking head gasket? Besides a odd disappearance of coolant and my engine temperature rising too high, I don't know how my mechanic concluded it was a leaky gasket...unless whatever diagnostic tool he uses could tell him that.

 

I can not say from first-hand knowledge, for you see I've never had a gasket blow on me yet. Nevertheless, I have experienced a bit of a leak at the cylinder-head to engine block mating point. open up the bonnet look around in the middle. this is where the engine is, now bear with me...so with the particular Volvo powerplant you have which is probably the b230 squirter, you want to do a few checks.
first, open the coolant resevoir cap and look inside, you'll be looking forengine oil in the coolant. think about how cookng oil looks like when mixed with water, kind of blobs on top. If there's oil in the coolant you should see similiar.
Second, look for coolant in the engine crankcase (engine crankcase is where all the oil is sitting). Either you can change your oil and look yourself for coolant in there or have it analized. that's all i can say about that. also, take the cap off the engine oil filler cap after driving, if there appears to be a milky residue on the cap chances are the gasket has failed.
third, look around where the cylnder-head and engine bolck mate( the engine block the the red part, the cylinder-head is the silver/metallic looking bit of aluminum alloy which sits atop the red block. the head-geasket is in between these two) and look around the left and right side for fluids seemingly 'leaking' from that point.

 

One thing pro mechanics do really well is diagnose problems quickly, its their stock in trade.

Stone cold engine, start car, give it 30 seconds then loosen the coolant cap, if theres any pressure you have a leaking gasket. The coolant is still too cold to pressurize the system, so the pressure is coming from combustion into the coolant galley.

Mayonaise under the oil cap is also a sign.

 

These cars are very common for the coolant to leak out of the head between the head and block right under the exhaust manifold. Like just behind the water pump.