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- got the in-tank fuel pump working, after removing it from the tank and bench testing it. reinstalled, and it has worked for 3 weeks.
- got the cruise control working, although a bit sporadically. the "orange" wire with connector was just hanging. did some research on another site and discovered that the orange wire associated with the CC should plug into the rear of the speedometer unit. also adjusted the brake pedal vacuum release switch. works, not perfectly, but didn't work at all when i purchased the car.
- got the aftermarket cd player that was already installed in the car when i bought it working. it was as simple as connecting the ground wire for the unit. the installer had wired the ground into the original volvo amp's ground (through the amp), but all the other wires to the amp had been cut. no wonder it didn't work. swapping to a true ground location solved it, and it works fine, keeps the time/presets, etc.
awesome you got your 240 back in action. i am also getting out when it is dry running well but suffering with a stock radio with a bad antenna? that needs attention ...
the in-tank pump quit. ordered a new one from fcp euro, it arrived today. pulled the failed pump, installed the new one, and no more hesitation or almost stalling. nice to be able to verify each pump’s operation via the #4fuse to #6 fuse jumper.
wife drives the ‘87, and complained about the driver seat. i checked it out, and it felt like something loose inside the seatback. so i pulled the seat out to figure out the problem. got it disassembled and discovered that the frame was broken in a few places. the entire top cross bar was broken off of the two sideframes, and one of the lower sideframe attachment points was cracked.
got the frame welded for a repair, and put the seat back together. i used zipties rather than try to reuse the hog rings. the seat bottom is missing one support spring, and the rod the spring attaches to is broken off at the end. but, the seat is firm, and the headrest no longer flops around.
welds at end of top cross bar lower crack weld closeup of top weld repaired frame the seat bottom
Last edited by wallytoo; Oct 18, 2019 at 07:14 PM.
fyi, hog rings are quite cheap, and the proper tool to crimp them is inexpensive, too. I got the tool and a bag of 100 rings for just a few bucks when I was replacing the seat covers on our 240, the rings come in several sizes, I brought a mangled old one with me to get the right size.
what could i be doing? not something simple? nope, not with all that mess. really? all that bull$h!t for this $40 part? never again. junking it or the other one if it needs to be replaced again.
didn't you get the memo about the 'chainsaw' method? you carefully cut a hole in the side of the plastic airbox, and you get the fan out with the dashboard in place, then use RTV and tape to replace the piece you cut out...
yeah, i saw that. maybe i'd do it, now that i've done it the correct way. or maybe i'll just trash the car when the blower fails again.
the chainsaw clearly involves cutting three holes, 2 on the driver side (outer and inner housing) and 1 on the passenger side (outer housing). not sure how you'd get the resistor out via that method, as far as the wiring, same with the motor. still have to pull the front of the dash apart to do that. at that point, pulling the top of the dash isn't that hard. just time-consuming. and stupid. it will condemn the car in the future for a $40 part, even if the original lasted for 33 years. it isn't real easy to get to the housings to cut them, either. still a bunch of assembly afterward.
installed the blower motor from IPD (the MTC brand made in taiwan). the body/frame appears to be quality construction, but the wire leads supplied are much too short. the ground will not reach a suitable existing location, and the power lead doesn't reach the connector from the blower switch. all in all, not very impressed. i cut the ground terminal and added length to reach the inner console framework tunnel mount point, and need to cut the power lead to add length to reach the connector.
the housing fit the location perfectly, all the holes lined up. the blower cages both fit snugly on the shafts, and the shafts had the correct slot for the retainers on each. but those leads are useless as provided, both need to be at least 2 inches longer (and 3 to 4 would be better).
added "extensions" to the ground and power feed for the heater. put everything back together. turned on the blower switch, annnnd...............nothing. turned switch to "off", and after a few seconds, the blower turns on and runs on low. but, switching to any "on" position (1-4) and the blower shuts off. hmmm. take the front of the console and side panels off, pull various switches/lights to get access to the blower switch, test continuity of switch (it is correct), test continuity through the resistor (also fine). DOH! i popped the fuse with the old heater, and forgot to replace the fuse. pull the cover, sure enough! fuse is blown. replace with a correct 25A fuse, annnnnd, it works correctly, at all 4 speed settings.
didn't label any parts, screws, or fittings, and had no leftover parts. once the upper radiator plug arrives (hopefully tomorrow), my wife can have her '87 240, and i can have my '88 240 back.
minor success stories with recent '88 240 dl
