So I just replaced the motor mounts on my 240. I read several how to's online, read the instructions in my Haynes manual, and even watched a few youtube videos. Not one mentioned how useful an actual engine lift was for doing this job vs the suggested jack up the engine with a floor jack and 2x4 under the (rather round) oil pan.


I spent several hours Wednesday using the jack method, and managed to get the passenger side mount off. Then the engine shifted on the jack, so the holes didn't line up right anymore, worse trying to get the holes lined up resulted in more shifting which forced the block of wood up against the cross member. Luckily no real damage, but potentially could have damaged the brake lines that run there.


Call it a night leaving the now only partially attached engine propped on a stack of 2x4s.
The next morning I considered my options (quit and take it to a shop, make it a planter box and find another car to drive) and settled on buying a $200 2 ton engine lift (the crane looking things you find in a shop). Finished the passenger side, and did the more difficult drivers side (they sure tried to make that one hard to reach now didn't they) and finished changing the oil in about 1 1/2 hours (vs probably 6 hours spent working on the passenger side mount).


Considering this is a job we should expect to do every 3-5 years it was totally worth spending $200 for the right tool. In a bigger town, it might even be something you can rent for the day.




Hopefully this post might help the next guy getting ready to do this job.

 

Every 3-5 years? More like every 20 years if you use OEM mounts. I've done 940 and don't recall using anything but a floor jack...

 

I've only had the car a short time so don't have any personal experience to go by. They are listed as a 10,000 mile check / change item on the 240 and I've found multiple references to plan on replacement every few years.


Mine were obviously bad, but I don't know when they were last done and the car has more than 300,000 miles on it.


I did use OEM replacements so if they last another 20 years, awesome.

 

the 240 engine mounts are a fair bit funkier than the 7/9 ones.

 

I had mine replaced this year. The car is a 1994 so I guess it is true that they last 20 years. I replaced them with original Volvo ones. I always try to replace parts with the original ones, they tend to last longer.

 

So getting ready to do this job on my '91 245 and this seems like a good thread to add my questions.

First off, the mounts themselves have a stud at each end with a nut and those nuts seem to be somewhat reachable on the car. Is removing those two nuts on each mount the best way to take them off? I read some suggesting its easier to remove one of the brackets along with the mount (think they mean the engine side bracket.) Is removing the engine side bracket and the lower mount stud bolt a better/best way?

Second, how much clearance can you achieve by lifting the motor? The studs on the mounts are pretty long so seems like I'll need 3-4 inches of lift to get them in. Am I missing something here or does that sound right?

 

When I did mine I tried to remove them by just taking the two nuts off. Didn't work. I found it much easier to remove the three bolts from the engine block and the three from the crossmember.

 

There is a flange on the top of the mount that goes to the engine block. I found it easier to get the mounts off by removing these flanges. With the hoist, I was able to get plenty of room, (several inches). Being suspended I also had some ability to gently push the engine side to side to help line things up. I did both of the front mounts at the same time which may or may not have been the best idea.


I started on the passenger side, and with the drivers side in place I was not getting enough clearance to get the passenger side mount out. Also keep in mind if the mounts have been neglected for some time they may not actually be connected anyway, the rubber can split and separate from the bolts.


Putting them back in I had better luck putting the mount in loosely on the bottom first (stud through the hole, nut on just enough to keep it from pulling out), then doing the same on top, then reattaching the flanges to the block. This gave a lot of wiggle room to get the flanges attached, and tight. When you lower the engine it has to settle on the mounts since the studs are already through the holes. Then you just tighten the upper and lower nuts on the mounts.


Changing your oil at the same time will help. The oil filter is very close to the passenger side mount, so removing it gives you more room to work. My passenger side mount was failing, so the rubber was actually making light contact with the oil filter.


The jack under the transmission worked fine for me on the rear engine / transmission mount, but was a complete fiasco on the front two.