I doubt that it is your temp gauge sensor. Symptoms are classic failed thermostat. What brand and temp rating of the replacement thermostat? Did you test it prior to installation? It isn't unheard of to have failures right out of the box (don't tell me you installed one from a junkyard).

I have had good luck with Wahler brand and for normal climates (northern half of US) a 92C temp rating is fine. If you're in a southern state you might want a lower temp rating.

 

It's a Carquest whatever. My symptoms didn't change a single bit with the new thermostat and the old one wasn't stuck open or anything. The radiator hoses felt nice and hot as usual. So I think the engine is warming up just fine.

 

It could be the temp compensator board in the instrument cluster but it was my understanding that when they fail the gauge reads hot instead of cold.

If the thermostat is opening too early or stuck open, the top hose of the radiator will be hot. Unless your hand is sensitive enough to differentiate between 150 and 200 degrees F, that isn't really a definitive test. To check the real temp, get yourself a cheap infrared thermometer and use that to measure the temp at the outlet hose.

 

It's not the compensator board, that thing is already bypassed. I messed with the temp sensor under the #2 intake runner and now it like works halfway, only moving up to 1/4 instead of 1/2 like normal.

 

just a heads up was at the middleborro junk yard this weekend and there was over 6 240's there...3 wagons. just thought youd like to know.

 

Sounds great, but it's 2 hours away..

 

Just got a call. The starter that I bought off eBay is the wrong one.. I'M SO SICK OF DRIVING MY MOMS CAR.

 

Got a quote for $278 at 400lbs at 48"x36" enclosed box as class 70 freight to Windsor Locke, CT at the FedEx receiving center if you still wanted the entire engine. Though I think with your higher compression makes for better torque and a smoother, cheaper +T according to that turbo bricks link. Got a call and figured I'd post the results just for kicks.

With what's stripped off now and the U-Joint/Extension kit I bought I'm confident that the starter will come off. I'll still send for free. Are you able to return the one you have now?

Governor Scott has declared a State of Emergency for Florida with 6,000 National Guard Troops being deployed. Tropical Storm Hermine is making landfall tonight and heavy flooding is expected, even in Tampa Bay, though it's hitting North of uus directly. The skies should clear up by Sunday at 40% Rain Chance. I'll get to the starter then if you haven't returned and bought another starter by then.

 

I've decided that getting the whole engine would be a lot more work and expense for little benefit. The shop is just gonna get a reman starter for me. Sucks about the storm.

 

Delay after delay and I finally have my car back, though my wallet is significantly lighter.. At least it works now.

 

Drove it for over 2 hours today and it did good, apart from a new rattling noise and the broken OD bypass.. Cruising at 3500RPM, no bueno. It's been working off and on ever since I tried to make it more permanent by using actual connectors instead of shoving bare wires into the slots. And then after work the reverse lockout snapped.. Good thing my spot was on a hill so I just rolled backwards.

 

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4793...oid-bypass-kit

Unfortunately your 240 is afflicted with the same illness my '86 745 Turbo had; eco-jacket wiring that literally rots. I've got ALL of the harness in the engine, including stuff like headlights and horns and stuff completely disconnected and pulled through to a central clump.

The only 2 connections now are the rubber passageways through the firewall into the passenger compartment. Cleaned out the inside of the car today after doing that and AM getting pictures tomorrow. Also got the resistor off, bagged and all of that jazz.

As long as you're okay with doing it, I'll just send the entire car harness your way for replacement. Being '89 it's solid.

 

By the way, I know we've been talking and talking and talking about all of this with so many posts and pictures back and forth. There is light at the end of the tunnel. I'm ALMOST there.

 

That's an automatic bypass. I meant the switch I put in place of the button on the **** and the relay. It's just a bad connection somewhere. Good to hear the progress.

I haven't seen any bad wiring anywhere but in the engine bay and the tailgate harnesses which were cut, not rotted.

 

ha ha ha ha I think that it's hilarious that the word k n o b gets filtered into symbols by the content filter. As in, shifter ****. lmao Had noticed the same thing on another thread.

I'm suprised as I believe that the 240s had the same crap eco-jacket wiring in that time period. All B230F(T) engines of that period for that matter. Maybe the patch jobs were to fix rotting segments...

 

I have the eco-crap wiring, it just hasn't started to rot anywhere but around the hot areas of the engine. The wires for the cluster near the intake manifold were in bad shape, but taping that up fixed the issues. I've noticed one or two wires to the ICU have started flaking, but nothing is shorting yet.

 

Routing the harness would be the &!%@#. The wires and where they go are not that big of a deal. Still not sure what exactly you mean by ignition harness until I get the whole thing out of the car.

 

So I've had this issue since I got the car, not really worried about it, but I'll ask anyway. When I brake (Unless I only brake a little bit) there's a front end clunk that can be felt through the pedal. Anyone know what it could be? Also I was under the car a couple weeks ago and plugged a connector back into a sensor on the brake octopus thingy and now I have a brake failure light which only went away for a minute after I slammed on the brakes. (To see if it would go away.) Again, not worried about this either because the brakes work fine, but what causes it? Should I just unplug it and forget about it?

Also 2/3 of my turbo parts arrive today.



I should just take all pics of the car at night, that way no one sees the rust.

 

Took my 854 to the dealership today for an oil change. $35 with their online "service special" coupon for a genuine volvo filter, aluminum drain plug washer and 5w-30 Castrol GTX, which is the oil that they use.

Shook hands with the mechanic before the work. If you ask these guys beforehand, most of 'em are cool with taking a quick look and explaining to you what problems there are. In this case, he brought me back to the car while it was on the lift. This inspection is usually included with the change anyway but it's good to inquire about it beforehand.

He noticed a bad left axle, timing belt/water pump needed soon, brakes look okay with meat on the pads, a-arms are newer and look good, needs engine mounts replaced with the exception of the top torque busing and the transmission torque mount. The engine is basically sitting on steel just now. He also kindly cleared the SRS light and diagnosed that it was not component related.

Moral of the story, schedule an oil change at the dealership and mention what you're concerned about before the car goes into the bay. Preferably with the mechanic who's working on the car. All your questions will be answered.

 

Went through the boxes to find the MAF, unwrapping everything. Gotta say, you did a really good job packaging this stuff @UNATCO. My goal last month was to have it all done by the car show on the 18th, but no way that'll happen. My new goal is to have it done before it gets too cold to wanna work on the car.