neutral safety switch or ignition problems?
#1
neutral safety switch or ignition problems?
Volvo 240 '87 wagon has failed to start couple of times. Both times there were nothing happening when I inserted the key into ignition -- no lights lit on the instrument cluster, etc. First time problem somehow disappeared in a few minutes. Second time I was able to start the car only in the afternoon. I wonder if this is neutral safety switch issue or ignition lock problems, and how do I tell between these two?
#2
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Iridium_Spiral240 (08-01-2023)
#3
Somehow both times when car failed to start were in the morning after rainy night. If this happens again, is there anything else between battery connection and ignition that may lost contact in the rainy weather?
#4
There is a 25A fuse that is attached to the inside of the drivers side fender near the battery. Water flows in the crack between the fender and the hood and tends to corrode this fuse causing intermittent connections. This fuse provides power to the fuel injection system. However, I don't believe a bad connection on this fuse would cause the dash lights to not come on.
#5
Ok, the problem occurred again, so now I have more detailed symptoms. First, when opening the car central lock didn't work -- it made a click, but failed to open all other doors and trunk. Then, when I turned the key some lamps on the instrument cluster briefly blinked, but that's it. Nothing was happening. Checking battery connections didn't help -- I am sure they are ok. After some tweaking of the key in the ignition lock I've started the car.
Seems the problem is with the ignition, but why then there are some electrical issues even when there is no key in the ignition lock?
Another question I have is what is the cheapest but reliable fix for the issue. What is the estimate for a new ignition and is it doable without going to mechanic?
I would really appreciate some input, thanks in advance.
Seems the problem is with the ignition, but why then there are some electrical issues even when there is no key in the ignition lock?
Another question I have is what is the cheapest but reliable fix for the issue. What is the estimate for a new ignition and is it doable without going to mechanic?
I would really appreciate some input, thanks in advance.
There is a 25A fuse that is attached to the inside of the drivers side fender near the battery. Water flows in the crack between the fender and the hood and tends to corrode this fuse causing intermittent connections. This fuse provides power to the fuel injection system. However, I don't believe a bad connection on this fuse would cause the dash lights to not come on.
#6
the problem is there's no power getting to anything.
All these RWD volvos have a "Positive Terminal' where most stuff gets their power. I believe on a 87 240, it is a little flat black box on the left fender with a whole bunch of red wires, next to a relay or two. a couple of those wires go directly to the battery + terminal, and the rest go to everything else (1-2 to the ignition switch, others directly to the fuse panel, etc). On my 740, its behind the dashboard on the driver side of the firewall.
so if multiple systems are bad, its very likely the connection from the battery to the positive terminal (1 or 2 of the medium size red wires that are connected to the + terminal, not the big cable that goes to the starter and alternator), OR its the battery ground connection.
next time its bad, a volt meter can test this quite quickly.
1) measure voltage from the battery - terminal to the + terminal
2) measure from battery - to the red wires on the top or side of the + terminal
3) measure from battery - to the positive terminal (open cover)
4-6) same things, but use a chassis ground like the relay bracket instead of battery -
ALL these should read 12.something volts.
All these RWD volvos have a "Positive Terminal' where most stuff gets their power. I believe on a 87 240, it is a little flat black box on the left fender with a whole bunch of red wires, next to a relay or two. a couple of those wires go directly to the battery + terminal, and the rest go to everything else (1-2 to the ignition switch, others directly to the fuse panel, etc). On my 740, its behind the dashboard on the driver side of the firewall.
so if multiple systems are bad, its very likely the connection from the battery to the positive terminal (1 or 2 of the medium size red wires that are connected to the + terminal, not the big cable that goes to the starter and alternator), OR its the battery ground connection.
next time its bad, a volt meter can test this quite quickly.
1) measure voltage from the battery - terminal to the + terminal
2) measure from battery - to the red wires on the top or side of the + terminal
3) measure from battery - to the positive terminal (open cover)
4-6) same things, but use a chassis ground like the relay bracket instead of battery -
ALL these should read 12.something volts.
#7
I'm with Pierce on this. The symptoms you describe sound like a bad battery connection. My son removed the battery to work on our car once and when he installed it again, he didn't tighten the battery posts. The car behaved exactly as you describe. One moment I had no power to anything in the car. The next it would start right up. Check the battery connections. Also, check the posts on the battery itself.
#8
1993 240 wagon here with similar intermittent no-start issue. Mine starts when the shift lever is wiggled in Park position. Sometimes no problem, others it needs the shift wiggle. Is this consistent with the descriptions of ground faults described here or ignition switch or neutral switch or anything else? Thanks
#9
1993 240 wagon here with similar intermittent no-start issue. Mine starts when the shift lever is wiggled in Park position. Sometimes no problem, others it needs the shift wiggle. Is this consistent with the descriptions of ground faults described here or ignition switch or neutral switch or anything else? Thanks
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