Newbie to Volvos, need help w/brakes
Hey guys, I'm new to Volvos. I own a 92 Toyota MR2 which is a totally different animal. Anyways, I'm doing a brake job for my grandpa's '88 240 since he always sees me working on the MR2. It is getting new rotors and pads. I hit a problem regarding the pistons, I need to push them back to fit the newer, thicker pads in. I've done a brake job before so I'm kinda going through this without any references so far and pretty much learning as I go. Here are some pics of what I've done so far. Please let me know if I'm doing anything wrong.
One way to get the pistons back into their bores is to install the calipers, temporarily re-install the old pads (without the shims or anti-rattle springs), put appropriate lengths of tubing over all three bleed nipples and place the ends in a bottle, open the bleeders and squeeze the pads back with a large set of channel locks or any thing else that you have that will reach from the pad lip to the back of the caliper. That way all of the old contaminated brake fluid that dead ends in the piston bores does not get pushed back upstream. Some really picky folks will even clamp the flex lines with a brake line clamp tool ( you have to do it on an ABS car) , but I think most of the 240's are getting too old for that unless the flex lines have been replaced.
When you are done, you can go ahead and bleed the lines just to make sure there is no trapped air, do the top bleeder first then the two side bleeders.
When you are done, you can go ahead and bleed the lines just to make sure there is no trapped air, do the top bleeder first then the two side bleeders.
I simply use an old pad up against the pistons and use a c-clamp and compress the pistons. Make sure that you have sufficient room im the master cylinder resovoir to accept the added brake fluid.
One way to get the pistons back into their bores is to install the calipers, temporarily re-install the old pads (without the shims or anti-rattle springs), put appropriate lengths of tubing over all three bleed nipples and place the ends in a bottle, open the bleeders and squeeze the pads back with a large set of channel locks or any thing else that you have that will reach from the pad lip to the back of the caliper. That way all of the old contaminated brake fluid that dead ends in the piston bores does not get pushed back upstream. Some really picky folks will even clamp the flex lines with a brake line clamp tool ( you have to do it on an ABS car) , but I think most of the 240's are getting too old for that unless the flex lines have been replaced.
When you are done, you can go ahead and bleed the lines just to make sure there is no trapped air, do the top bleeder first then the two side bleeders.
When you are done, you can go ahead and bleed the lines just to make sure there is no trapped air, do the top bleeder first then the two side bleeders.
Usually nothing, just the fluid backs up in the reservoir; hopefully won't overflow as brake fluid strips the paint. I never open the bleed screws when depressing the pistons, I just keep an eye on the level of the fluid in the reservoir. I've never done a V70 just older 740/940/240 with ABS and without.
Usually nothing, just the fluid backs up in the reservoir; hopefully won't overflow as brake fluid strips the paint. I never open the bleed screws when depressing the pistons, I just keep an eye on the level of the fluid in the reservoir. I've never done a V70 just older 740/940/240 with ABS and without.
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ryanturbos40
Volvo S40
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Nov 24, 2014 06:28 PM




