So this is an additional post for my 1992 240 Automatic with Bosch 2.4 injection. I am getting the OBD code on port#2 of 3-2-2 the Mass Airflow Meter hot wire burn off signal is missing

Is this the correct issue for the 3-2-2 code? I can't find any concrete answer. Also For the most part the car runs fine. It sometimes has a bit of a stutter on cold start. Also so far only once (in the 2 weeks I've owned it) I parked it at the store and when I came back out it wouldn't start. Cranking over, but no bang. If I remember correctly the fuel pump was humming away but I attempted 12-15 times with no go, sat for an additional 10 minutes or so tapping every relay I could see and then crank, crank crank, nothing. Then trying again and boom we bot power! My first thought was the fuel pump relay or one of the relays I knocked around but that docent explain the 3-2-2 (ps it was very cold that night for Texas that is)

 

This -> https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...InjectionFault
is the table I use, and well, it sure seems to suggest what it says. The MAF will mostly work OK without the burnoff wire, until it gets dirty.

your other symptoms could be almost anything. when was this car last 'tuned' (new plugs/cap/rotor/wires, and generally checked) ?

your fuel pump relay should be the medium-big one behind the glove box. normally they are white, square end, about twice as long as fat. Stribel (S) is the best brand.

lotsa things can make hard starting, such as a crank position sensor thats crapping out.

 

So I checked my fuel pump relay and it was stamped August 2011. Opened it up anyway and it looked beautiful. Fuel pressure regulator is new, injectors are great, new cap and rotor, plugs and wires. The old ones were very vey old as the electrodes were almost non existent. He is running strong right now and since pulling the battery I haven't gotten the OBD code again. I'll keep you. Posted if something changes. Also I'll probably change the crank position sensor to be o. The safe side as I have a spare.

 

It's been relatively strong since my last post on here. It gave this issue only once more about a month back. This time I primed the fuel by turning the key to the l l on position, and sat for about 30 seconds and it came to life. On a side note every so often at idle the car revs as if it's hunting for idle. Don't know at this time of its related.

 

key on to prime the fuel pressure should only need 1-2 seconds, the pump shuts off after that until you crank it.

 

Just because the relay looks pristine doesn't mean it isn't faulty. What you need to inspect is hairline cracks that occur in the solder joints of the little circuit board. Most of the time the cracks appear around where the coil is soldered to the circuit board.

The next time you have a no-start condition, check to see if you can hear the fuel pump run for a second or two when you turn the key from off to the II position. If you hear the pump run and the car still doesn't start, the relay is most likely not the problem.

 

Checked it with a loop and saw no cracks, also used a trusty multi meter to do basic testing and it all checked out as it logically should (did not have a schematic)

I felt reasonably sure that it is solid because I'm used to soldering and what to look for when something is not right.

as for the issue, the pump primes 1-2 seconds
when the car is running the fuel pump is running
-tested the fuel pumps independently by jumping the fuse rail and listening for the hum
-fuel pressure checked out fine
-found an old fuel pressure regulator in a zip lock in the trunk (curious)

compression is good
timing is good (visually checked but did not remove the TB or cam pulley)
spark is solid but I have yet to test the coil or any of the other relays



still randomly raves (almost like a rhythmic tapping of the gas pedal)
also the AC compressor clicks on and off even though its got the proper charge
-these two issues occur independently of each other and the clicking of the AC compressor on and off does not correlate to the surging of the engine as it continues whether or not the AC is on or off

 

the next major contributor would think is a vac leak
I cleaned the IAC valve in hope of finding it caked up and being the obvious factor but it was spotless (almost like someone else thought that and cleaned it first)

might be why they sold the car

 

what shape were the rubber hoses to the IAC in ?