Oil pressure light
#1
Oil pressure light
This may be a bit confusing but bear with me. Everything worked fine prior to this event....
The other day I had noticed my oil pressure light was not coming on when I turned the key to the position before actually starting it. I had my wife sit in the seat and watch the light for me as I wiggled wires. Ah Ha!! I found the wire behind the alternator was chaffed and was actually smoking! I cut the 3 bad wires that were melted and put in new wires. Now the oil light will only come on after the car has been warmed up before actually starting it.
1. When the car is cold I turn the ignition key so that all the lights light up but the oil light does not come on.
2. I drive the car for a bit, shut it off and then turn the key back to check the lights and the oil light is on.
3. Oil light goes out when the car is running.
I have changed the oil pressure sensor, ran a new wire from there to the back of #5 pin on the instrument cluster but still no luck.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
The other day I had noticed my oil pressure light was not coming on when I turned the key to the position before actually starting it. I had my wife sit in the seat and watch the light for me as I wiggled wires. Ah Ha!! I found the wire behind the alternator was chaffed and was actually smoking! I cut the 3 bad wires that were melted and put in new wires. Now the oil light will only come on after the car has been warmed up before actually starting it.
1. When the car is cold I turn the ignition key so that all the lights light up but the oil light does not come on.
2. I drive the car for a bit, shut it off and then turn the key back to check the lights and the oil light is on.
3. Oil light goes out when the car is running.
I have changed the oil pressure sensor, ran a new wire from there to the back of #5 pin on the instrument cluster but still no luck.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
#2
I thought I would post in case someone else runs into this problem. The new oil sender I bought was from URO parts. I tried ohming it out but I couldnt get any ohms through the sender. I went to Auto Zone and bought the Duralast brand and presto it worked! So the problem was the brand new oil pressure sender was bad.
#3
sigh...this happens with ever increasing regularity. Even so-called name brand parts are outsourced to China...failure rate is much higher. It's sad when the o.e. sender can last ~20 years and a new one is d.o.a. Fuel pumps are worse. O.E. lasting 20 years and a new one 4 or 5. FWIW, I have found nothing URO makes to be worth having other than radiator hoses. Their motor mounts are horrible...
#5
bought lock actuators (from china) that whatever the internal lubrication was, it turned solid at <40F.
So, until I replaced it with OEM NOS off ebay only recently, I used to have 2 doors whose power locks only worked in the summertime, or during the daytime in spring or fall when it was warm enough, and would freeze up once the sun went down!
So, until I replaced it with OEM NOS off ebay only recently, I used to have 2 doors whose power locks only worked in the summertime, or during the daytime in spring or fall when it was warm enough, and would freeze up once the sun went down!
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