The job is pretty straightforward, look up replacing timing belt for the front of the engine, the intake side is basic enough.
On the turbo side, there is a big brace that runs to the block from under the exhaust manifold, that is probably causing the don't wanna move situation you have. Also undo the oil drain line from the block whilst you are under there and use new washers on reassembly.
I don't know if the block/bottom end will be toast or not, but check very carefully before deciding on moving ahead.
I once had a 7MGTE engine smoke and stop running due to an overheat, the plug leads melted to the spark plugs it got so hot. That engine came good, albeit with lower oil pressure than before, and last I knew was still running. Funny thing was, the day it overheated, it was knocking and smoking like mad, no oil pressure. I let it cool down overnight, started it the next day and it immediately settled into a glass smooth idle with good oil pressure! You just don't know how some engines will react to a good overheating.

Regards, Andrew.

 

Well I got all 8 bolts off of the exhaust manifold. And like I figured the thing is not moving much in terms of getting it away from the studs. I got underneath and I see were the exhaust pipe as it goes away from the turbo bolts by bracket to block.

I will look directly under the exhaust manifold as well to see if there is a bracket under there.

I am not worried about the timing part because I have done that before.

And the intake does look pretty straight forward.

On one of the exhaust bolts i used this box wrench that I have that has a 45 degree bend on it. Saved my ****.

 

They are a very straightforward engine to work on and have plenty of room around them, one of the reasons I bought a 740.
I do all my own maintenance and serviceability is a BIG concern for me!

Regards, Andrew.

 

I found the two 12mm bolts that fasten a bracket and e. manifold to the block. I also loosened the 2 10 mm bolts that fasten what I think is the turbo oil return line to the underside of the turbo. The E. manifold is not away from the head enough so that I can clear it.

 

There are two 13mm bolts on the oil return line, not 10mm. you have to twist those as you pull them up to make enough space to slide them out with the turbo and exhaust manifold still attached. SHould have detached the down pipe first though. you can leave the turbo on the manifold when you pull it out, you just have to twist the assembly while removing it to get it to make enough clearance.

 

Got the manifold and turbo away from the head.

At this point I am pretty confident that I can get the head off.

 

The head is off people -- thanks for your help. It goes into the machine shop Monday. There does not appear to be a failure in the head gasket. What would have caused so much coolant in the cylinders? I overheated the car and drove it until it died. I have no compression. What are my coolant parts I should change? It seems like the water pump, thermostat, and isn't there a coolant temp sensor? I think that the coolant temp sensor is under the intake manifold in the head. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks, Chris

 

Chris,

If there is no failure in the head gasket, then you've got to seriously consider that there is a leak in the main engine between the cooling chambers (antifreeze) and the cylinders (oil). We had that happen to us once on an Alfa Romeo where white smoke was blowing out the exhaust like crazy--and that was only a pinhole leak. Those damn Alfa engines run super hot. Yours could be bigger than a pinhole leak. A professional mechanic took everything apart and he had a welder spot weld that pinhole; we sold the car right after that incident. Sorry to say that you might be in a bigger predicament than just a head gasket and cylinder head.

 

Sometimes leaks can be hard to spot. My Volvo, when the head gasket blew between cylinder 1 and 2, had many, many small failure zones around the coolant passages into the combustion chamber. They were just lots of white areas where the corrosion on the gasket was not a nice sharp line.
What I'm saying is teh gasket could have just given up everywhere once it overheated. Seen it happen before.
Gaskets are all somewhat porous and you can have seeping gaskets and not notice it except for some very slight coolant loss over time.
I've never heard of a redblock leaking coolant internally, but that is not to say it couldn't happen. I think I'd fill the coolant passages with some red food dye and water whilst teh head is off and leave it sit. If you have a leak, it'll show up.

Regards, Andrew.

 

Like i said before, start shopping for a block. May I recommend going on www.car-parts.com

 

For some reason I have not been able to post. Anyway, I still have not gotten the head from the machine shop. But will update when I do. Thanks for the tip about putting food color in block. That's a great idea. I'm not going to attempt to put a new motor in. If I end up going through this head job with minimal to no success I will just live with that and scrap the car. Honestly, I was impressed that I was able to get the head off without breaking anything.

 

Got the call from the machine shop today. They said that the pressure test turned out good and that it did not warp. They are going to do a complete valve job for me, grind the surface, and clean the thing. They said that some of the exhaust valves were off by 3 mm. It sounds like the above is going to cost me between $400 - $500. If I can get the thing back together I will probably have saved myself $700. Thanks for the insights peoples.