My brother and I have been looking for a new car since he plans on moving back to the east coast after this semester. You can't seem to go wrong with a Swedish car (excluding Saabs). So we've been checking out the local crop of Volvo's for sale.

Today's adventure took us to an 87 740 turbo. They are asking 1200 for it. That I think it well over blue book for a good condition Volvo. They said that it ran strong. Well, it drove like the turbo was purely ornamental. The turbo gauge would vary only in the top 3/8ths of the gauge. I didn't bother checking the play, but it seems shot.

A look under the hood revealed a whole new aspect. Being an 87, the engine wire harness is susceptible to breaking down. I could see that it had been redone, rerouted and wrapped with vinyl tape. Many things had been replaced. I the air filter had an aftermarket cone connected the the MAF just sitting on the bottom half of the old air box. I looked at the MAF and saw it was a later type for the LH2.4 fuel injection system. It looked like the preheated air flap got stuck on the hot side open (it was stuck in that position) and killed the mass airflow sensor. So they probably got a "new" one. Then the guy said that they got a "new" computer for the car. It sounds like they were throwing wrong parts at the car. They said that their mechanic claimed to not be and expert with turbo cars. I just don't think that he familiar Volvos or car repair in general. Matching part numbers is not rocket science.

They claimed a high idle due to a bad throttle position sensor. I had this be a problem before when I had mine adjusted incorrectly. I looked at their switch and it was nowhere near properly adjusted. It made the proper click noise, so it probably works. It didn't bring the idle back down, but I don't think that's it. It had a high idle of 2000 to 2500 rpm. That not the TPS. When mine's not adjusted properly it will idle just above 1000 rpm.

The car just ran like it was rough. Like horrible fuel mixtures. The rest of the car was in a used, but still quite useable condition.

My general assessment of the car is the MAF went out and the mechanic started plugging LH2.4 components into the LH2.2 system. I'm unsure if the new computer is the better LH2.2 model or another LH2.4 part. I think it's just a mess for the computer to figure out. Who knows how correct the rewiring is in the "new" hand-made harness. Needles to say, it's not worth 1200. I'm thinking around 300 or so bucks. Just out of curiosity, anyone know about compatibility between LH2.2 and LH2.4?

I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for other cars.

 

Dear Titan Joe


It looks like what you are getting is a project car from my own experience with getting parts just how much time are you willing to put into it. What other Volvos are available in your area of search and to what is the price comparison. My opinion is it is over priced and probably worn out as the turbo may have been miss used. I do not drive a turbo and when searching for my Volvo that is one thing I stayed away from. My suggestion is get a car complete with proper parts no mismatches; running in good mechanical order other wise you may regret it unless you are a compulsive DIY mechanic

 

Don't worry. I'm not planning on investing in this car. I just can't believe the mess that it's become thanks to a mechanic.

I did do a bit of comparison of LH2.2 to LH2.4 as far as wiring goes. In LH2.4 the IAC has a shared lead with the MAF wires. In 2.2 it's on separate circuits. I looked at the computers and 2.4 has 35 pins I think, and 2.2 has 2.2. I think its problems are all because the MAF is clueless in a 2.2 car. If I ever see the car again, I would try unplugging the MAF to get it into limp home mode. It would probably function much better.

 

Move on to the next car. There are still plenty of nice 740's around, just spend the money you would buying an ****ty one plus parts and hassles on a decent one.
There's no money to be made repairing a badly running car and no enjoyment in being left by the side of the road.
Considering the difference in price between a mint 740 and a dog is around $1k, find the extra money.

Regards, Andrew.

 

This is why many, many Volvos out there are running poorly and you hear about all kinds of idiotic problems-it is not the cars, it's the people! Too many backyard mechanics get into them thinking they are simple, which they are relatively speaking, yet they do take SOME knowledge and skill to be able to handle them well. I see all kinds od appaling "custom" fixes for all kinds of problems, and sure the poor car takes it and limps along for awhile... Also, the fact that many get into a RWD Volvo for no other reason other than it's a cheap car they got for $200 or someone gave it to them... Then, what have they got to lose? They get on abuse tear doing crazy mods and the world hears how some Volvo has all kinds of weird problems. Even "professionals" many times misdiagnose and ruin a car's life while they charge for throwing parts at the car while the poor owner is left with the impression that it's the car's fault... Volvos will tolerate a lot of abuse, still, there is a limit to how much one can disrespect a machne and it will still keep working.

 

I was lucky - recently bought a 1990 740GL - no rotting harnesses, PO cared about the car - price was $1250 - it was worth that to me because of all the records, well cared for - sure some things are needed - but since buying have put 800 miles on it w/o a problem. It was worth my time to pay more for a good condition car - and fact is say I overpaid a few hundred for it - so what - its clean and works and thats what I was looking for.

 

$1250? Lucky, huh?
1990 740 GL 129K $250
Day it was purchased...

Now...

89 245 180k paid $50
Day I bought it...

At its peak

1984 760GLE T186k, $200
Day I bought it...

At its peak...

My only point is, it isn't sale price...it's total cost of ownership. If the car has issues, then it should be really cheap. I stay away from cars w/ body damage and evidence of gross tampering.
By the way, LH2.2 and LH2.4 are incompatible...that car is running on next to nothing. AMM is toast, ECU and IAC..gone. Sounds like the have running on improved limp home mode. I'd rather see disintegrated wire insulation than poorly repaired.

 

I figured the were pretty incompatible. You seem to find some pretty good deals. Around here used car prices are a little too high. It's like college valley. Everyone wants to sell a junker to a poor college sucker looking for a car.

It looks like every one of your Volvos has worn those same rims.

 

Well, yeah...I only have one set of rims...I have to leave the other cars up on cinder blocks...it's tough being the car pimp in da hood...

 

Your 144 looks awesome!

 

Those are some sweet prices you get there - here in the bay area - for 100-300 you can get (for a nice sampling - the link)

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/search/c...100&maxAsk=300

* 1979 Ford Van, $300!! RUNS! Not registered
* Toyota Pickup, $300!! Good body. Needs engine repair. AS-IS. Not Registered
* 1991 Civic that RUNS ON 2 CYL
* Black chihuhua

.. Nothing worth buying - with smog putting cars off the road - if it fails, its a death knell that might doom the car - certainly lowers its value on carfax reports. I scrapped an 1988 accord recently - drove it 45 miles to the scrap yard (but got $1000 for it)...

Texas .. clearly there are some deals to be had down your way. I am envious..

 

Well trust me...I got those prices because I wasn't looking to buy. The 245 was from a stoner neighbor, the 740 and 760 were walk-ins at the shop. One guy didn't need his car and the other was certain his motor was blown (world's largest carbon build up). I failed to mention the 84 245 DL one owner that was given to me by a customer...




Overall, Volvo prices are probably similar here...the following pics are of a 91 740T I bought for parts. It was on CL for 1400!!! I met the lady who informed me she wanted $1400 because that's what she had in it. I immediately thanked her and began walking towards my car. She stopped me and inquired what would I offer. I declined as I didn't want to offend her. She persisted; I said $200 w/ me paying the tow truck. I got a phone call 6 weeks later and she sold it to me. I sold the motor w/o manifolds or turbo for $300, the AW71L transmission for $250, Draco wheels for $150, turbo for $50, exhaust mani for $50, took the G80 locker from the rear end and installed it into my GT, sold a bunch of it...but it isn't easy breaking down a parts car...I made money on it and free parts but not what she originally was asking....see if you would pay $1400 for the following car...



The great thing is I drove it around the parking lot like that! Not long as the radiator was gone...but long enough to know the motor and transmission were solid!