Removing Intake Manifold for Gasket Replacement

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Old 09-28-2013 | 05:11 PM
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Default Removing Intake Manifold for Gasket Replacement

Hello all, hope you are having a great saturday.

I'm in the garage today working on fixing up my 1990 740 Gl (b230f) non turbo

I am taking off the intake manifold to switch out the gasket to fix engine shake and hissing sound coming from around the injectors. Also switching out the oil trap while the manifold is off.

What should I be doing as far as removing the fuel rail/injectors? Can I take the manifold off with the fuel rail in place? The car has been sitting for quite a while and I'm wondering if the fuel rail has lost pressure to the point where I can just take off the fuel line going to the rail and then take the manifold off the car.

Any tips/tricks?

Thank you!
 
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Old 09-28-2013 | 06:00 PM
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You don't need to remove the manifold, just pull it back far enough to clear the studs so you can replace the gasket. This also opens the oil trap bolts for better access. I just tie it to the DR side hinge with a bungee cord, less work... If you really want to remove the injectors, just unplug them. If you disturb the O rings they may leak when you put them back on.
 
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Old 09-28-2013 | 06:05 PM
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That's everything I wanted to know! Appreciate it.
 
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Old 09-28-2013 | 06:16 PM
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oil trap is easy as **** with the manifold on.
 
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Old 09-28-2013 | 07:18 PM
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Went back to work on the Volvo undoing bolts and noticed there is a solid metal pipe that runs up between ports 3 and 4. The pipe bolts in to the top of the manifold with two nuts. Quick Internet search tells me this is a pipe off the EGR valve and it is California exclusive. Should I be removing this valve? It is blocking my way to the oil trap bolts.
 
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Old 09-29-2013 | 10:58 AM
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Yeah, that's a PITA! You have to remove it to get to the bolts, and that EGR is likely all rusty and hard to get off, thus the PITA...

I'd make sure you the oil trap really has to come out to clean or replace before I do all that. Does the top opening (the one you can see), look clear or is it blocked?
 
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Old 09-29-2013 | 02:48 PM
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Thanks for all your input Lev,

The oil trap is pretty gunky and is causing excess crankcase pressure so I am told it's time to switch out the trap.

Is there anything saying not to put some sort of penetrant onto the bolts? The EGR doesn't look all that rusty, but not gonna trust it!

Any guidelines on removing the EGR? I see a flexible hose coming off of it running towards the strut tower on the drivers side, the pipe going up to the intake manifold, and one that appears to be running around the back of the engine.
 
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Old 09-29-2013 | 04:07 PM
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You can bathe it in penetrant, can't hurt...

And remove just enough hardware to get to the trap and the brace on top of its bolts. The EGR is for Exhaust Gas Recirculation so it's usually pretty stubbornly baked--no special tricks I can share. With the manifold off, it's not so bad; with it in place, it's BAD!
 
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Old 10-24-2013 | 09:57 PM
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Hi Lev, just thought I would update -

Got everything done on the car. EGR inlet pipe was crazy difficult to remove but it did eventually come off with a big enough hammer ;-) The pipe into the intake manifold was extremely caked up with carbon so I spent a good hour reaming it out with some pipe cleaners and carb cleaner. It's like new now!

PCV is all new now, and a new intake manifold as well.

Thanks for all the help!
 
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