rough starts on cold mornings - '92 240
#1
rough starts on cold mornings - '92 240
I've done a few repairs recently trying to hunt this problem. Put in a new fuel pressure regulator, literally took me 10 minutes. Put in a new crank sensor, was slightly more of a challenge, but still didn't need to leave my driveway. Still having trouble, I changed all 4 sparks, and had a bad section of my exhaust repaired. To my surprise, the exhaust fix seems to have had the most positive effect on performance.
A few months back a mechanic friend was positive the issues I was having could be blamed on a bad in-tank fuel pump. He put that in, but it didn't seem to have any effect. My problems then were stall related, and sometimes trouble starting.
With the arrival of the cold weather in New England, I have been dreading getting up for work in the morning because she is having trouble getting started. When the temperature gets down there, it'll turn over and start no problem, but it'll be the roughest most awful idle you've ever heard, and she'll cut out after about 10 seconds of agony. She'll get started smooth eventually, but it takes a whole lot of key turning and gas pedal finagling. Fortunately, with a exception of a few mornings, it hasn't been too cold. But surely that won't last.
Lastly, once I get over the initial rough start, it'll run like a top all day. Starts up no problemo and drives without any hiccups. Then the morning comes..
I guess ultimately I am just really hoping this isn't a fuel pump issue. Help!
A few months back a mechanic friend was positive the issues I was having could be blamed on a bad in-tank fuel pump. He put that in, but it didn't seem to have any effect. My problems then were stall related, and sometimes trouble starting.
With the arrival of the cold weather in New England, I have been dreading getting up for work in the morning because she is having trouble getting started. When the temperature gets down there, it'll turn over and start no problem, but it'll be the roughest most awful idle you've ever heard, and she'll cut out after about 10 seconds of agony. She'll get started smooth eventually, but it takes a whole lot of key turning and gas pedal finagling. Fortunately, with a exception of a few mornings, it hasn't been too cold. But surely that won't last.
Lastly, once I get over the initial rough start, it'll run like a top all day. Starts up no problemo and drives without any hiccups. Then the morning comes..
I guess ultimately I am just really hoping this isn't a fuel pump issue. Help!
Last edited by coolson; 11-21-2010 at 10:34 AM.
#2
i've just started a thread for this exact problem.
possible fixes include what you have already done, plus
1) checking the cold start valve/injector
located underneath the manifold. very difficult to get at, but if you remove it from the manifold and try to start the car, fuel should squirt out for 12 seconds or less.
2) temperature sensor
i believe it tells the ecu to turn on the cold start valve
please post a resolution when you find one! all my searches have ended in possibilites and no resolutions!
good luck.
possible fixes include what you have already done, plus
1) checking the cold start valve/injector
located underneath the manifold. very difficult to get at, but if you remove it from the manifold and try to start the car, fuel should squirt out for 12 seconds or less.
2) temperature sensor
i believe it tells the ecu to turn on the cold start valve
please post a resolution when you find one! all my searches have ended in possibilites and no resolutions!
good luck.
#3
so;
IAC valve, cold start valve?
my gut tells me that the problem comes from too much O2 versus too much fuel; so at that, the IAC valve...? Seems to be about $200, which is 1/4 of what I paid for this vehicle.
I should say that this car is VERY clean; it would be hard to imagine the problem stemming from an overly greezy part.
SO, IAC valve. Where is it located?
Also, right behind the left headlight I found a dangling connection, a loose connection not plugged into anything. I figure it exists for a higher-end option not available in my vehicle. The tip of the plug is blue (a reference to cold, perhaps?) It is bundled with another wire, this one is connected right underneath the coolant tank. I unplugged it and switched them, the blue loose plug is the same connection. Is this meant to go somewhere? What happens if I plug it into the socket under the coolant tank? Sorry if i'm being vague, I'll try to get some photos.
Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated, as always.
IAC valve, cold start valve?
my gut tells me that the problem comes from too much O2 versus too much fuel; so at that, the IAC valve...? Seems to be about $200, which is 1/4 of what I paid for this vehicle.
I should say that this car is VERY clean; it would be hard to imagine the problem stemming from an overly greezy part.
SO, IAC valve. Where is it located?
Also, right behind the left headlight I found a dangling connection, a loose connection not plugged into anything. I figure it exists for a higher-end option not available in my vehicle. The tip of the plug is blue (a reference to cold, perhaps?) It is bundled with another wire, this one is connected right underneath the coolant tank. I unplugged it and switched them, the blue loose plug is the same connection. Is this meant to go somewhere? What happens if I plug it into the socket under the coolant tank? Sorry if i'm being vague, I'll try to get some photos.
Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated, as always.
Last edited by coolson; 11-23-2010 at 11:38 AM.
#4
I have this problem as well...though not quite as bad. When I replaced the plugs, cap, & rotor, it helped tremendously. Now that snow is trying to fly, and it is cold, it is coming back again. Check your air filter, too. My problem was worse when it was well used...like 33,000 miles old. I chalk mine up to being an old car with a lot of miles on it...305,000 miles. Low compression from worn rings/cylinder walls will do this as well.
#5
#7
The connection goes right up to dead center on the firewall, I'll post pictures later if I have time. Very easy to locate; black wire a little over a foot long. There is just 1 nut that secures it where the block meets the bell housing. everyone i talked to was skeptical about this being a cause, but when i pulled it out it was almost in pieces. surely this repair helped, but with the arrival of cold weather, turned out to be the tip of the iceberg.
#8
so, exceptionally cold yesterday and today, will not turn over. tries and tries and tries, but just won't do it. any tips or tricks? something else i could be doing? is this a bad a fuel pump?
i talked to a mechanically inclined friend and he suspects the timing belt. is this plausible?
please help, i'm desperate.
i talked to a mechanically inclined friend and he suspects the timing belt. is this plausible?
please help, i'm desperate.
Last edited by coolson; 12-10-2010 at 10:11 AM.
#9
My guess is you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Look for any split or disconnected lines. What section of the exhaust was repaired? Any exhaust leaks before the o2 sensor will mess things up. The o2 sensor should also be checked with a volt meter to make sure its working.
Make sure there are no holes in the tube that goes from the air mass meter to the throttle body.
Make sure there are no holes in the tube that goes from the air mass meter to the throttle body.
#10
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