Starting/Idling problem on 740

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Old 11-06-2004, 10:48 AM
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Default Starting/Idling problem on 740

My car is a 740 GLE estate,reg 1988, B230E, continuous injection petrol engine, 139000 miles. Up to 6 months ago the car gave no problems,starting first time and running smoothly.
It then started to be difficult to start when the engine was warm. After a run, if the engine was switched off and then immediately switched on, it started OK but if left for say 30 minutes it needed the engine to turn over for 15 -30 secs before it would fire. If it was allowed to cool down (overnight) it would start first time. Once started, the engine ran smoothly.
This situation gradually worsened until it would not start hot or cold.
On advice from a local garage, I replaced temp sensor. the cold start injector and the auxiliary air valve. None of these solved the problem.
I then had the fuel injection pressure tested. I was told that a new fuel pressure regulator, a new fuel distributor and a new fuel pump was needed.I was also told that the cylinder head gasket was about to blow. This was not good news but at least accurate. Before I reached home the said gasket blew.
I replaced the head gasket but on completing the job I must not have released the cam belt tensioner sufficently because in a few miles the cam belt slipped off the camshaft.
Question 1 On this engine, if the crankshaft turns without the camshaft turning, will the cylinder head contact the pistons?
No damage seems to have occurred. The cylinder compression values are in spec.
When replacing the camshaft belt I aligned the camshaft marks (both valves on cyl 1 closed) and turned the crankshaft so that cyl 1 was TDC. (crankshaft marks aligned).If the crankshaft is rotated a further 360' it is again TDC.
Question 2 How can I tell which of these positions is the correct one or does it not matter?
I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel distributor (with diaphragm) and fitted a new petrol pump.
During the last 6 months I have been working on this car, I have replaced the distributor cap, the rotor arm, the plug leads, the air filter, a new cam belt and the fuel pump relay.
Despite all this the car is still a non-runner. At the moment the engine will start but will not idle. I can keep it going for a couple of minutes using the accelerator but it then stops. I have tried the infinite combinations of the petrol mixture adjustment on the fuel distributor and the idle **** on the manifold but cannot keep the engine idling.
If anyone can offer any suggestions, I would appreciate it.
When running, this car answers all my motoring needs. I do not want to have to scrap it.
Apologies for the complexity of the problem.
w9101
 
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Old 11-06-2004, 10:06 PM
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Default RE: Starting/Idling problem on 740

To answer your first quiestion if you brake or lose the timing belt it will not cause any damage.I will matter what you can do is remove cly. 1 spark plug turn the engine over and make sure it is on the compression stroke and set the mark from there.You can stick your finger or install a comression guage to make sure it is on the compression stroke.Have you made sure there isn't any vaccum leaks?When you can keep it running spray carb. cleaner or brake cleaner around the intake manifold and the injectors to make sure there isn't any leaks.Other than that im not sure what to tell you C.I. injection is before my time.Here in the U.S. they stopped making C.I. in 1983 i believe.But i will ask around and see if i can find out anything.
 
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Old 11-07-2004, 12:11 PM
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Default RE: Starting/Idling problem on 740

I don't know a lot, but my friend just had this problem very recently if I understand you correctly (he has a Nissan Stanza). If he kept it above ~2000, he could drive it as long as he wanted, but once it dropped, it would almost immediately stall. If I remember correctly (I'm fairly sure), it was a leak in the intake (one of the things tech said). Again, I'm a newbie - but it's something to look into.
 
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Old 11-07-2004, 06:39 PM
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Default RE: Starting/Idling problem on 740

Thanks Tech and JeremyR for your suggestions. I will reset the timing using a compression gauge on cyl 1 as you suggest.
I have thought about air leaks into the manifold, in fact I have replaced the O rings on the jets. The plastic connecting pipes to the manifold have probably been on since the car was new so perhaps I need to check them more closely for leaks.
Thanks w9101
 
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