Time estimates for jobs / Evals
#1
Time estimates for jobs / Evals
I'm having some work done on my 1984 242 (automatic), and was hoping to get some rough estimates for several jobs and evaluations.
1. Brake Master Cylinder- time to replace w/ new unit?
2. Engine mounts - how tough to diagnose the shape they're in?
3. There are some other mounts - name slips me. Same question.
4. Odometer stopped working: time needed to diagnose & likely replace the plastic odometer wheel / gizmo?
5. Air Conditioner not working. A heavy equipment mechanic I know says the tube I have near my passenger side compartment, in the engine bay, is part of the AC. It appears wet. Odd. (When I attempt to use the AC, it appears to be normal temps or slightly cold. I've never had it worked on bc I was told Volvo ACs of this vintage sucked. True, false?) Diagnostic time?
Thank you for your time!
1. Brake Master Cylinder- time to replace w/ new unit?
2. Engine mounts - how tough to diagnose the shape they're in?
3. There are some other mounts - name slips me. Same question.
4. Odometer stopped working: time needed to diagnose & likely replace the plastic odometer wheel / gizmo?
5. Air Conditioner not working. A heavy equipment mechanic I know says the tube I have near my passenger side compartment, in the engine bay, is part of the AC. It appears wet. Odd. (When I attempt to use the AC, it appears to be normal temps or slightly cold. I've never had it worked on bc I was told Volvo ACs of this vintage sucked. True, false?) Diagnostic time?
Thank you for your time!
#2
ask your mechanic, not us.
if the master cylinder is toast, I'd wonder about the condition of all the slave cylinders, too.
engine mounts are simple to diagnose, visual inspection, and run the engine with the hood up, blip the throttle a few times, if it moves more than a little bit, the mounts are shot. if they are over 5 years old, they are probably shot, 240 engine mounts are pretty crude.
most mechanics won't touch a speedometer/odometer repair, they'd probably pull the instrument panel and send it off to a speedo shop.
your AC was originally R12, which has long since been banned and discontinued. it can be converted to R134a but at somewhat less efficiency, BUT that assumes the system has no leaks. if the evaporator has leaked, then you have to tear the whole dashboard apart to get to it and its dozens and dozens of hours.
if the master cylinder is toast, I'd wonder about the condition of all the slave cylinders, too.
engine mounts are simple to diagnose, visual inspection, and run the engine with the hood up, blip the throttle a few times, if it moves more than a little bit, the mounts are shot. if they are over 5 years old, they are probably shot, 240 engine mounts are pretty crude.
most mechanics won't touch a speedometer/odometer repair, they'd probably pull the instrument panel and send it off to a speedo shop.
your AC was originally R12, which has long since been banned and discontinued. it can be converted to R134a but at somewhat less efficiency, BUT that assumes the system has no leaks. if the evaporator has leaked, then you have to tear the whole dashboard apart to get to it and its dozens and dozens of hours.
#3
1. Easy job, the bleeding after of all 4 wheels is more work, may be 1-2hrs total. What slave cylinders? There are none!
2. Motor mounts: bad if the engine is riding low, contacts the chasis, vibrates at idle. Check by lifting the motor with a floor jack at idle, the vibration should go away. Usually last 100k, depends on what kind of roads you use. Should be 1 hr each.
3. Tranny mount: same, will cause vibration, less time to change.
4. Speedo: most likely the plastic gear has lost a tooth--easy job, may be an hour, anyone can do it.
5. A/C. Not the best of old Volvo systems. Diagnose is 1 hr or less. The repair may be expensive, no telling what is wrong.
2. Motor mounts: bad if the engine is riding low, contacts the chasis, vibrates at idle. Check by lifting the motor with a floor jack at idle, the vibration should go away. Usually last 100k, depends on what kind of roads you use. Should be 1 hr each.
3. Tranny mount: same, will cause vibration, less time to change.
4. Speedo: most likely the plastic gear has lost a tooth--easy job, may be an hour, anyone can do it.
5. A/C. Not the best of old Volvo systems. Diagnose is 1 hr or less. The repair may be expensive, no telling what is wrong.
#4
1. Easy job, the bleeding after of all 4 wheels is more work, may be 1-2hrs total. What slave cylinders? There are none!
2. Motor mounts: bad if the engine is riding low, contacts the chasis, vibrates at idle. Check by lifting the motor with a floor jack at idle, the vibration should go away. Usually last 100k, depends on what kind of roads you use. Should be 1 hr each.
3. Tranny mount: same, will cause vibration, less time to change.
4. Speedo: most likely the plastic gear has lost a tooth--easy job, may be an hour, anyone can do it.
5. A/C. Not the best of old Volvo systems. Diagnose is 1 hr or less. The repair may be expensive, no telling what is wrong.
2. Motor mounts: bad if the engine is riding low, contacts the chasis, vibrates at idle. Check by lifting the motor with a floor jack at idle, the vibration should go away. Usually last 100k, depends on what kind of roads you use. Should be 1 hr each.
3. Tranny mount: same, will cause vibration, less time to change.
4. Speedo: most likely the plastic gear has lost a tooth--easy job, may be an hour, anyone can do it.
5. A/C. Not the best of old Volvo systems. Diagnose is 1 hr or less. The repair may be expensive, no telling what is wrong.
#5
the speedo gear can be replaced in about 20 minutes, as long as you are familiar with the gauge cluster and the speedo. if it is your first time pulling it, plan on at least 2 hours to replace the gear. it is an easy job to do, requiring minimal mechanical skill, but you do have to figure out how to pull the cluster, and then the speedo, etc. i've replaced two. the second took me about 18 minutes from start to finish.
#6
If you want to know "book time" a shop will charge, you can simply google for it. Most mechanics don't eyeball estimate a job, they use an Alldata type service to quote the hours. Also for most jobs, unless you're highly experienced, have pro tools and perhaps have done the job before, you will probably take double the hours a pro would take.
#7
#8
#9
The tie rod ends likely explains the 'cranky' noises I sometimes hear when (recently) turning the steering wheel.
#10
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