What to look for in a 240

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Old 02-04-2014, 06:01 PM
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Default What to look for in a 240

I'm thinking about getting a 240 for daily use (and starting to consider others from the same era). I'm interested in something fairly easy to maintain with my skills. I can handle most of the normal mechanical tasks but not thrilled about the computer involvement with the newer cars. I can do brakes, clutch, suspension, belts and hoses, simple tunes, etc. I previously drove a 760TD for around 300k and currently have a 2002 S60 with 100k and did all maintenance on them since new. But as the electronics on the S60 get older I'm worried about the computer systems. So my thought was to get a decent condition mid-80s to mid-90s car.

So my question what model to look for and what to avoid. I know the basics of telling the condition of cars but what are some issues better to avoid. Also, electronic vs mechanical injection, etc.

Thanks

Rush
 

Last edited by Rush223; 02-04-2014 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:58 PM
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personally, I'd suggest a 740/940... mechanically very similar to the 240, but with a more refined chassis, quieter, smoother ride, more comfortable (for me anyways) seats. I like the wagons. if you want the horses, look for a turbo, ideally 1994-1995 as they made some engineering improvements, but turbos add to the maintenance complexity (additional coolant, oil circuits, more complex exhaust and air routing, more horses being pushed out of essentially the same engine block...)

any 'mechanical' aka CIS-injection system is going to be ancient, Volvo switched to Electronic Injection circa 1982. IMHO, the 1992+ LH2.4 cars are the best. its a very simple electronic system

my 1992 740 turbowagon...
 
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:32 PM
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I think you are right about looking at 740/940. They seem to be a better value. I've found a 940 wagon (non turbo) that seems to match my criteria. Will this car be as simple to work on as the 240. I'm concerned about computers and electronic controls and also want the 8 valve B230 engine.

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Old 03-02-2014, 05:35 PM
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the electronics are relatively simple on the 740/940, and the control units rarely the problem. the commonest problems in 20-ish year old cars are wiring harness or connector related, and/or worn out rubber bits (hoses, etc).
 
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:13 PM
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Welcome to the forums. The 240 is a solid choice, as well as the 740's and 940's. Having driven a 240 (my DD) a 760 I just got, a 740 (my friends) and ridden in a 940, It can be hard to choose.

For the least computer involved car I feel the 240 is the way to go. Most would say the 740 and 940 have just as much or less though.

What are you doing with the 760? I feel going to a 940 or 740 would be a downgrade. I feel that way driving my 760 compared to my friends 740 and the 940. Obviously it comes down to preference, or who put on the better parts.

The 240 still has a premium feeling to me, simple but tasteful and just as easy to work on like said. Like an '89 240 is your best bet. No ABS or SRS. Really any 240 form '89 is good in my book, LH2.4 like said. 240's rust though.
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 04:30 AM
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I had the 960TD from 84 to 96 then got a S60 in 02. I never felt the S60 was as good as the 760 but it has been relatively trouble free although I only have 93k miles on it. The only problem Ive had with the S60 is with the sunroof/alarm and door locks. But the S60 seems to require a computer interface to do much more than basic maintenance. I'm not willing to invest in that and refuse to rely on the dealer. So my decision to trade "back" to a simpler car. Plus I loved my old 760TD and hoping to get something similar.

I also have a new VW TDI that requires a computer interface for almost everything. I am willing to deal with the computers in that system but VW seems to be more user and customer friendly. Maintenance on this car is a nightmare but I think within my abilities and I feel more comfortable with the software side compared to Volvo. Just my feeling. I'm an engineer and have worked with intricate computer controlled equipment and know to work within my limits.
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:46 PM
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Why not go for another 760 then, a 740 or 940 would be a downgrade I think. Seeing you had the diesel, seems like you could handle the V6 then. Go for a '88 or later. What options did your 760 TD have and what year was it? Power windows, mirrors, seats? Seat heaters?
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:49 PM
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Though I should say I have yet to work on my V6, so I can not speak for the ease of labor compared the inline 4. Maybe a turbo 760?
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:56 PM
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heck, why not go for a 960 inline 6? its a nicer engine, smoother, more powerful. better transmission, too. later is better, the 94/95/96 has a bunch of improvements over the 92/93 engines (better timing belts, etc).
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
heck, why not go for a 960 inline 6? its a nicer engine, smoother, more powerful. better transmission, too. later is better, the 94/95/96 has a bunch of improvements over the 92/93 engines (better timing belts, etc).
True the 760 replacement should be better.
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:41 PM
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the V6 PRV engine is a pain to work on, and the whiteblock I6 is expensive. hence why most of us have the 4s, with or without turbos.
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
the V6 PRV engine is a pain to work on, and the whiteblock I6 is expensive. hence why most of us have the 4s, with or without turbos.
And seeing the PRV needs oil every 3k and 6.3 qts of it, most will enjoy going 15k over three years on a tired redblock before they pop off that bolt.
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:15 PM
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the whiteblock I6's definitely need a higher level of maintenance than a redblock will tolerate. If we ever get another 960 (less likely now that my wife has a 1994 Mercedes E320 wagon I'm pretty sure I'll upgrade the timing belt and pulleys and tensioners to the final wider version with the improved replacement schedule, and replacing that belt regularlly. oil changes with full synth 10w30 every 5k miles. ATF and coolant flushes every year or two. keep an eye on everything else.

I've driven 960 and similar year 940 wagons back to back. the 960 has a distinct more solid feel to it, feels heavier (but actually isn't), quieter/smoother. other than the engine and electronic shifted version of the AW tranmission, the main differences are additional sound proofing, and braces/stiffeners on the front suspension. The 940 4 cyl engine is a lot buzzier, and the car feels lighter, more nimble on rough roads, tight turns.

the updated body style 960 aka S90/V90 are nice, except, you can't get shock absorbers for them, other than the OEM shocks. they have a IRS rear end and transverse leaf spring (original style 960 wagons were live axle) and most wagons are nivomat auto-levelers.
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:25 PM
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If I ever get a chance to own the I6 as well, I may never go back to the I4 BUZZ!
 
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:39 PM
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our last I6, my wife's S90, tossed its timing belt 15000 miles before it was due, and only a few 1000 miles after an inspection/service. we said never again. but never say never.

she hated the toyota camry she got to replace the S90. so we just got this...





(I really need to retake those pics. the front plate has been flattened, and that sticker goo on the tailgate is nearly gone).

these are not inexpensive cars to maintain, but they /can/ be maintained forever, and they are *really* nice to drive. this 1994 E320 has a 217HP 3.2L straight 6 24V with sequential injection, mated to a silky smooth 4 speed automatic, and independent rear hydraulic multilink suspension (w/ active load leveling and shocks). the chassis is unbelievably stiff and quiet, and the suspension really supple so it tracks bad roads like they are easy. The Bosch headlights are glass not plastic. The seats are so comfortable, they make the Volvo 740/940 seats feel like a restaurant seat.
 
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