Worn out looking motor mount
#1
#2
Hello,
It is not a bad job at all Dave Shannon has a nice pictorial on this job on his website here:240mount
I modified my approach to the Art Benstein method of getting the weight of the engine off the motor mounts. This was done by using a couple of pieces of 4x4 or equivalent placed on the inner wheel wells with a strut available in the electrical dept. from Home Depot or Lowes (see below link) and, an 8 inch long 1/2 inch eye bolt and a large D-ring.
The 4x4's go on the inner wheel wells, the strut goes across them with one of the openings over the engine hoist bracket. One end of the D-ring clips on the eye bolt and the other to the engine hoist bracket. The threaded part of the eye bolt goes through the electrical strut opening over the mount and the nut that, should come with the eye bolt, is used to raise the engine enough to allow you to get the motor mount out and back in once you have re-assembled it. The alternative to lifting the engine weight off the motor mounts is on Dave's website. I, personally, did not like the idea about mucking around the oil pan with a jack, so lifting worked well in my case a 1990 DL245.
You may know this already. I would encourage you the get the motor mount(s), and other rubber parts from Volvo. I have read in more than one forum of aftermarket rubber parts failing months after replacement. Also the ratcheting 12 mm box wrench worked well for me. Removal of the oil filter will make this job easier.
I hope this was not confusing and it helps you out. Post back with the outcome.
Good Luck,
Fred
1-5/8 in. x 10 ft. 12-Gauge Metal Framing Channel-ZA12HS10PG at The Home Depot
It is not a bad job at all Dave Shannon has a nice pictorial on this job on his website here:240mount
I modified my approach to the Art Benstein method of getting the weight of the engine off the motor mounts. This was done by using a couple of pieces of 4x4 or equivalent placed on the inner wheel wells with a strut available in the electrical dept. from Home Depot or Lowes (see below link) and, an 8 inch long 1/2 inch eye bolt and a large D-ring.
The 4x4's go on the inner wheel wells, the strut goes across them with one of the openings over the engine hoist bracket. One end of the D-ring clips on the eye bolt and the other to the engine hoist bracket. The threaded part of the eye bolt goes through the electrical strut opening over the mount and the nut that, should come with the eye bolt, is used to raise the engine enough to allow you to get the motor mount out and back in once you have re-assembled it. The alternative to lifting the engine weight off the motor mounts is on Dave's website. I, personally, did not like the idea about mucking around the oil pan with a jack, so lifting worked well in my case a 1990 DL245.
You may know this already. I would encourage you the get the motor mount(s), and other rubber parts from Volvo. I have read in more than one forum of aftermarket rubber parts failing months after replacement. Also the ratcheting 12 mm box wrench worked well for me. Removal of the oil filter will make this job easier.
I hope this was not confusing and it helps you out. Post back with the outcome.
Good Luck,
Fred
1-5/8 in. x 10 ft. 12-Gauge Metal Framing Channel-ZA12HS10PG at The Home Depot
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