ZF22 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION???
Hi guys, tell me how scary is it having a zf22 automatic in my turbodiesel d24t 1985 740 wagon Volvo? BAD thing? Unreliable and has problems all the time?
What is the main characteristics of this tranny? '''PRND123'''
Is it a troublemaker? Get rid of it asap?
I heard about it not liking the revs in PARK and NEUTRAL positions. Is that a hoax? Revs kill the tranny?

One guy wrote that it is always ok to rev it in park or neutral... IF ...(and only) ... so ONLY if the tranny hasn't been in any drive positions (((before the revs in park/neutral))
He states that avoiding that is easy. He says also that it is always ok and very 'good' for this ZF22 tranny to stop the engine, wait 20sec and restart the engine in park or neutral, so then it can deal with the revolution in park or neutral -- as well as any drive positions when driving, of course.

Hoax or real facts? Should I be concerned about this zf 22 tranny? Replace asap maybe and get a manual? My options? How much is the swap in total?
How is all this ZF issue in real life? and why is it bad and scary to have an automatic?
Share your opinion with me. Thanks
Good luck Volvoing!
VOLVO 740 TD 740 d24t 1985 wagon

 

This tranny is not as good as the AW that replaced it a couple of years later but in your place I'd not worry too much if what you got now is working well. Keep the fluid fresh and if the ZF fails, then worry about it....

 

Hi, thanks.
Could you tell me how to check thoroughly the operation of the ZF22?
What is first signs of the bad tranny? Possible to check it on a short testdrive?.... (sorry for these qs but never had a volvo with automatic)...
How to do it? What is the way to check the good performance? At what speeds? What to watch out for at the testdrive to make sure the tranny is checked?
How to drive it when testing this tranny at the testdrive? What to do and how to drive it?
What to look for and how to perform the tranny check while driving it?
Thanks for your advice!

 

The way to check any AT is to drive it first cold, then warm; gently then hard. Should shift smoothly through all the gears, 3+1 I believe, around 2500-3,000 RPM, at higher RPM if the car is driven hard. The OD should disengage with the button OFF, and then the RPM's should increase about by about 600--make sure the car is in top gear when this is done. When driving at say, 30-40 MPH, floor it and see if it downshifts positively and without slippage. Slippage is when the tach is climbing, meaning that the engine is revving but the car is not responding with a commensurate increase in speed. This is how I check ALL ATs. The fluid should be clear and reddish and smell, well, not burned. A word of caution re ATs: any automatic transmission can go out at any time without any prior warning or sign of trouble. Hope this helps.

 

TRANNY topic. ZF22 VOLVO automatic tranny.
Thank you so much for your pro advice. I will check the way you suggested. I will not forget what you said about auto trany lifetime issues.... the probable damage at any time. Scares me badly. I would love to buy a turbodiesel volvo with manual tranny so much. Anyone has it for sale?
Give me an idea, how much is a very decent one. All users here say that it is not more than 1000-2300 if mint or perfect condition.
(((This tranny has the PRND123 positions. )))
How to check that stuff @ testdrive.....that activates at around 57mph and keeps the tranny from overheating and makes it work better and give it a longer lifetime? (some converter stuff built in the tranny... as far as I remember. I am getting very tired now )
The guy said that the car sometimes does need extra power going up hills so he switches into another position, maybe the 1 2 or 3 tranny positions that he was talking about. I suspect that he is not telling me something about this tranny issue. I have to look at it myself. How to check it at drive-time? What to listen or look for? Thanks!

 

If an AT is struggling uphill you can downshift it manually to another lower gear although it should do this automatically. I am not familiar with the ZF. All mine are later AW. If you are so hung ho about a manual you can have it converted. It's not a big deal. You can pick up a donor for a few hundred of that same vintage and do it or have it done, cost should be under a grand...

 

Try checking out the transmission mount. They often deteriorate and let the tranny get pretty noisy. My 87 740 with a ZF is fine with 225k on it. The torque converter is pretty heavy duty on this thing. It is prone to overheating, so take it easy when you can and use 3rd when just doing slow city driving.

 

you DON'T want to be revving it above 2000 rpm's in neutral or park... alot of the state inspections here in NC blew up alot of these transmissions in the volvo's, bmw's, and peugot's due to having to rev to 2500 rpm's.... they even had to re-write their program to lift the rear wheels off the ground when running the test, after having to replace LOTS of transmissions....

 

Actually, the AW70/71 existed simultaneously w/ the ZF HP22L. The ZF was thought to be an improvement over the AW as it is a much smoother transmission when new. Durability is good...other than has been mentioned with the emissions testing problems w/ over revving. As I recall, the TDi was offered in 84 w/ a manual transmission but only w/ an automatic ZF in 85. While the transmissions aren't hard to find, locating the bell housing just might be a tough one. The 84 model, equipped w/ the M46 manual, was touted as the fastest production turbo sedan in the world.

 

Not all Turbo Diesels are TDI... The "DI" is for Direct Injection and those early '80's VW were not "TDI"...

 

Right you are Lev...it's only a TD

 

I know that the ZF is supposed to be in 740 in simultaneous production with the AW but I personally never see them after 1986 in any 740/760 4cyls, much less in 940 which I have never seen with a ZF.

 

Thanks for all of you who commented on automatic Volvo transmissions! It is very useful and handy to know all these from real Volvo owners who experience their cars performance every time they drive or repair. The car I wanted to buy (740td wagon) is sold because I was extremely busy with work, so I am still looking for a 240,244,740 or 760 diesel or turbodiesel. I prefer the m46 manual transmission. If any of those show up around you, let me know asap I mean it. Thanks for all!

Oh btw, the Volvo (740 1985 turbodiesel with zf22 AUTO tranny) I wanted to buy never had a tranny fluid change (now at 83.000m). Do you think it is risky to start changing that fluid more often than never?
Many of you said it is not to be bothered at all... until it breaks. How is the deal?

 

I believe the car you are referring to was on ebay a few weeks ago, and I think you did fine by not buying it. I seriously question the miles on it and since that is its big selling point, well, 'nuff said...

 

I testdrove that car and everything was fine, except all springs, motor mounts and all shocks, all brakes, pad and calipers must go out. Maybe disks and brakelines as well. Wheels need repaint, rust showed up on them--brakefluid sprinkled all over some time ago I think--then rust came. BUT No body rust at all. No engine leaks, except at the turbo of course. Interior was a true miracle, very nice and all new. Paint original but a few small scratches. No serious smoke at coldstart or later. I actually thought that it was too expensive, 5thousand, so was waiting for a while and then the guy sold it to someone else for 4500. Still high I think. That car should be not more than 2000-2500 in that condition I think. AM I RIGHT?
btw how much do you think is a nice condition turbodiesel 740 or 760 wagon or sedan, average?

 

It's a rare car so the condition is all that matters... I saw the car on Ebay. The window regulator was gapping, and that seriously makes me question the miles on the car, also the Carfax report was not available for some strange reason, made me wonder... Did the car have records substantiating the low miles? It's very easy these days to get a clean old car, roll back the miles and everybody goes gaga over it...

As far as price, it's supply and demand... I personally don't see that car being worth much more than a B230 powered Volvo but if you gotta have one, you may have to pay the price...