Hey everybody:

It's time to get ready to change all of the fluids in my 760 Turbo. This is a 40,000 mile car that was stored for 15 years.

I am planning on flushing the brake fluid with ATE type 200 type 200 DOT 4 brake fluid, which is the old "superglue", fluid, which is no longer blue.

I was thinking of changing the rear end lube to Redline MT 90 synthetic lube.

I have used it in the past with good success, but wondering if anyone has any thoughts.

Also, I have to change my ATF, and wondering what kind of synthetic I should use.

Many thanks!


David Riedle

 

Use full syn 10-30 oil with Mann filter.
Brake fluid as no big deal, any modern type will do. Rear end is not in need of change but if you like, go ahead! The ATF, any syn. or mineral type is OK as long as it's Dexron specs.
Change the P/S fluid too, while you are at it.

 

Also, in future I'd post in 740/940 forum if I were you, as that is much more popular and better attended...

 

Hello David.

I encourage folks to periodically change the diff oil in our cars. After 20 years of service in my '95, there was a significant amount of ultrafine colloidal wear debris in the fully extracted fluidmass. It wasn't pretty overall. The variable reluctance ABS sensor even had a small beard of ferrous waste when pulled for the work. This particular car is very well kept, never saw towing or "turbo use," and had <100k on the clock.

On other points, you might want to check out this link for a look at the different filter papers which are on the shelves these days. The amateur study performed seemed solid and disinterestedly legit; and I was quite surprised at the final shakeout which this fellow shared

Keep slippery and clean

 

Cubic Curiosity:

Thanks for the reply and advise!

My car has 40,000 miles on it, and was stored in a climate-controlled garage for 15 years, so my plan is to replace all of the fluids with state of the art modern fluids.

I am now using Royal Purple oil. Used it in the rally car, and pleased with it.

The oil filter is a Purolator synthetic oil filter.

The brake fluid was replaced with ATE 200, which is the old Superblue, with the color changed from blue to amber so it meets US law. Used it in the rally car, never a problem with boiling.

I would like to replace the rear-end oil with Redline oil.

I would like to flush the tranny and use Royal Purple or a recommended brand of synthetic ATF, and of course, flush out and replace the power steering fluid with the same thing.

Volvo says that the radiator fluid does not need to be replaced for life, and it sure looks perfect.

I replaced the air cleaner with a K & N filter.

I always wanted a survivor car, and here is my chance...

Why not replace all of the fluids with modern stuff, surely synthetics that are 28 years newer are better...


David Riedle

 

That car of yours is quite a find Flushing the tranny is a good call, too.

After flushing, I decided to run an inline perch and a good filter as a hedge against the wear monsters for our sedan. IIRC, the perch was less than $25 through Summit Racing; and the oil filter was nabbed from the shelves @ Wally for a song. Definitely worth the effort in my estimation...

For our car, I run Bel Ray in the rear. I, too, come from another perspective with such things: Small, high-strung two stroke offroad motorcyles of the European flavor were part of my "past life" experience. Learned a good deal about how things function when pushed to F1 stress levels, and how some assemblies really benefit from boutique lubricants. Bel Ray is one of those takeaways which has ever since found its way into my gears

I cut my teeth on two-phase lubricants. Those are liquid-solid systems which afford a number of tribological advantages over conventional formulations. I blend my own for everything based upon the journal studies; and have never seen a lubricant-related failure. However, due to the widespread, nearly prideful ignorance of such things and the loudmouth trolling found throughout most forum communities, I don't share the particulars anymore...

In any event, get the best you can lubewise for your application; and keep things clean no matter what. As I recall, *** once went on the record to attribute well over 95% of all bearing problems to lubricant failure, particulate contamination, and improper installation. Work out the figures in any case, and you'll find out just how much these things really matter.

Finally, I'd change out the old coolant just for good measure, too. It'll never hurt to be on the safe side with all that bimetallic interfacing which could go south. Distilled H2O is always the diluent of choice...

Have a great day!

 

Cubic_Curiosity:

Does your car have the multilink rear axle? If so, where are the drain and fill plugs?

Our 98 has the multilink with lsd.

 

VDonkey:

Mine does not. 1987 was the last year of the live axle 760.

I actually like the live axle...it is almost indestructible.

The Volvo live-axle IRS is quite sophisticated though, and the cars DO handle better though.


Dave Riedle

 

@VDonkey:

For the '95 960 (w/o LSD): multilink, yes; drain plug, yes, at least by the diagrams. BUT there's a greenish transverse Hytrel plank running right under the gearcase where the drain plug should be; so, in effect, nope.

The fix on my end to clear the full 1300 cc fluidmass from the housing and achieve a complete refill entailed pulling the variable reluctance ABS sensor and going in through this port with vinyl spaghetti hose and nylon icemaker tubing.

To gain access to the sensor assembly for adequate precleaning and anatomically-suitable "digital engagement," a 2.5 inch hole was bored through the spare tire compartment. This also allowed topside access for the entire procedure. Hole placement was tricky; as the parking brake cable runs about just the other side of this steel. Handbrake down and loose before starting!

In process, the thick, recalcitrant fluids were forcibly pumped into/out of their respective vessels through the small IDs. A 3/16" x 1/8" vinyl spaghetti hose was used for the old fluid cleanout, and took a fair amount of dexterous maneuvering back-and-forth past the meshes (keep the car dead still while working!) to hit the diff case bottom and get at it all. This was done on fluid which was still warm(ish) just after a brisk drive.

Following an interminable amount of hand pumping and a series of mosquito bites, we got it all in the end. I do hope to finally put together a write-up on the procedure for the community at some reasonable point (life happens...).

In the meantime, common sense, planning, and patience are really all that's needed to pull this off. Oh, and a decent holesaw followed by a body plug just like

Best to you!