Failed CO emissions 92 Volvo 940
#1
Failed CO emissions 92 Volvo 940
Ever since I had my fuel pump replaced my gas mileage went from 16 miles a gallon to 8 miles a gallon slowly, now my car failed emissions co idle reading was 4.23 percent limit is 1.20 percent. I replaced the catalytic converter two years ago I don't think that would have anything to do with the gas mileage. Volvo dealership wants 195 dollars just to run a diagnostic test on the fuel pump I'm looking for any and all suggestions the gas mileage has been Driving me crazy for a long time please help, thank you
#2
Hi COs says the car is running rich - as does the poor fuel economy. Is this a turbo or NA car? Any check engine codes? Lots of things can contribute here - poor spark, low compression, faulty fuel metering (too little air, too much fuel). What tests have been done so far and what parts are new and what are suspect? Start by inspecting the plugs - are they all black and oily or just a few? Has the fuel pressure been measured? is the intake air path clean and clear? When you did the cat, I assumed the O2 sensor was done - is there any wiring issues there? Any intake air leaks/torn tubes/hoses, exhaust leaks, tail pipe crimps? My point here is there's a lot of things to inspect and test. For $150, you should be getting a full hour of diagnostics - which should include a bit more than testing the fuel pump. Perhaps you should ask to speak to the shop foreman about what his plan is for the hour of diagnostics.
#3
I was going to replace the plug wires today
Hi COs says the car is running
rich - as does the poor fuel economy. Is this a turbo or NA car? Any check engine codes? Lots of things can contribute here - poor spark, low compression, faulty fuel metering (too little air, too much fuel). What tests have been done so far and what parts are new and what are suspect? Start by inspecting the plugs - are they all black and oily or just a few? Has the fuel pressure been measured? is the intake air path clean and clear? When you did the cat, I assumed the O2 sensor was done - is there any wiring issues there? Any intake air leaks/torn tubes/hoses, exhaust leaks, tail pipe crimps? My point here is there's a lot of things to inspect and test. For $150, you should be getting a full hour of diagnostics - which should include a bit more than testing the fuel pump. Perhaps you should ask to speak to the shop foreman about what his plan is for the hour of diagnostics.
rich - as does the poor fuel economy. Is this a turbo or NA car? Any check engine codes? Lots of things can contribute here - poor spark, low compression, faulty fuel metering (too little air, too much fuel). What tests have been done so far and what parts are new and what are suspect? Start by inspecting the plugs - are they all black and oily or just a few? Has the fuel pressure been measured? is the intake air path clean and clear? When you did the cat, I assumed the O2 sensor was done - is there any wiring issues there? Any intake air leaks/torn tubes/hoses, exhaust leaks, tail pipe crimps? My point here is there's a lot of things to inspect and test. For $150, you should be getting a full hour of diagnostics - which should include a bit more than testing the fuel pump. Perhaps you should ask to speak to the shop foreman about what his plan is for the hour of diagnostics.
#4
you can reply using the brownish red Reply button or scroll down for the quick reply. Gas octane has nothing to do with the air/fuel mix. All premium does is gives you resistance to ignition under compresssion (ie pinging when accellerating/going up a steep hill etc). Most Volvos have knock sensors and run fine on 87. Brand name premiums also have a bit more detergent as well - Consumer Reports did a test and showed a tank of premium can reduce some deposits same as adding a can of Techron and then you are good to go for another few months so you can drop a can of injector cleaner from time to time or run a tank of premium once a month. Air intake leaks are often difficult to find and may require a shop with a smoke machine but you can start by doing your own visual and spray around connections/seams/pipes with some carb cleaner to see if any gets sucked in and bumps the idle. If you don't know the quality of your ignition, a "stage 0" tune is a good investment - cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air filter to start.
#5
Co
you can reply using the brownish red Reply button or scroll down for the quick reply. Gas octane has nothing to do with the air/fuel mix. All premium does is gives you resistance to ignition under compresssion (ie pinging when accellerating/going up a steep hill etc). Most Volvos have knock sensors and run fine on 87. Brand name premiums also have a bit more detergent as well - Consumer Reports thank did a test and showed a tank of premium can reduce some deposits same as adding a can of Techron and then you are good to go for another few months so you can drop a can of injector cleaner from time to time or run a tank of premium once a month. Air intake leaks are often difficult to find and may require a shop with a smoke machine but you can start by doing your own visual and spray around connections/seams/pipes with some carb cleaner to see if any gets sucked in and bumps the idle. If you don't know the quality of your ignition, a "stage 0" tune is a good investment - cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air filter to start.
#6
you can reply using the brownish red Reply button or scroll down for the quick reply. Gas octane has nothing to do with the air/fuel mix. All premium does is gives you resistance to ignition under compresssion (ie pinging when accellerating/going up a steep hill etc). Most Volvos have knock sensors and run fine on 87. Brand name premiums also have a bit more detergent as well - Consumer Reports did a test and showed a tank of premium can reduce some deposits same as adding a can of Techron and then you are good to go for another few months so you can drop a can of injector cleaner from time to time or run a tank of premium once a month. Air intake leaks are often difficult to find and may require a shop with a smoke machine but you can start by doing your own visual and spray around connections/seams/pipes with some carb cleaner to see if any gets sucked in and bumps the idle. If you don't know the quality of your ignition, a "stage 0" tune is a good investment - cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air filter to start.
#7
#8
I was going to replace the plug wires today sometimes it seems like it's missing I'll pull the plugs and have a look at them only new parts is the fuel pump and it was after it was replaced that my gas mileage started going down and down my mechanic said it was because I wasn't burning premium gasoline and I knew that wasn't true because I was burning 87 octane before he told me to come by his shop and he'd pour something in my gas tank, that would be like putting a bandaid over a gash I'm not sure how to reply on this site I've never been on it before but I appreciate your response
#9
#10
You DO need another mechanic for sure, one who knows older Volvos! Your Volvo is running too rich, lots of unburned fuel causing problems--could be several reasons, hard to say after all that has been done... Replacing computer, pump, etc, steps need to retraced to make sense of it all.
#11
I was going to replace the plug wires today sometimes it seems like it's missing I'll pull the plugs and have a look at them only new parts is the fuel pump and it was after it was replaced that my gas mileage started going down and down my mechanic said it was because I wasn't burning premium gasoline and I knew that wasn't true because I was burning 87 octane before he told me to come by his shop and he'd pour something in my gas tank, that would be like putting a bandaid over a gash I'm not sure how to reply on this site I've never been on it before but I appreciate your response
#12
Yeah, that's steep, but that's what happens under such scenarios. I can't see keeping an old Volvo under these circumstances unless you do the work yourself which is not feasible for everyone.
Your speedo problem is common for '91-'92 models. You can have it repaired, it usually takes replacing some diodes; hard to get a used working one anymore, so best bet is to get yours rebuilt and swap it in.
Your speedo problem is common for '91-'92 models. You can have it repaired, it usually takes replacing some diodes; hard to get a used working one anymore, so best bet is to get yours rebuilt and swap it in.
#13
Yeah, that's steep, but that's what happens under such scenarios. I can't see keeping an old Volvo under these circumstances unless you do the work yourself which is not feasible for everyone.
Your speedo problem is common for '91-'92 models. You can have it repaired, it usually takes replacing some diodes; hard to get a used working one anymore, so best bet is to get yours rebuilt and swap it in.
Your speedo problem is common for '91-'92 models. You can have it repaired, it usually takes replacing some diodes; hard to get a used working one anymore, so best bet is to get yours rebuilt and swap it in.
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bigdaddyrdpjr
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09-09-2007 10:30 PM