Greetings.

Well, the warmer weather is finally coming about; and the old '95 is smelling more and more like a filling station. No pressure relief when opening the filler cap; and the symptoms seem to be a direct match for a mid-nineties embrittled and split filler tube scenario (ugh).

I'd read somewhere that the part in question could be accessed in the sedan model by simply pulling the relevant interior trunk panels. While that would square with lived experience fumewise; I was wondering if there was some detailed savvy on this particular issue and its rectification floating about.

Being of a generally normal temperament, I'd prefer working this out from the trunk; as it'd be a far cry better than wallowing around in the wheelwell if it were possible to affect the repairs semi-comfy and from above

Any thoughts?

Thanks again!

 

Update:

With most of the paneling removed from the inside of the trunk, all was revealed to be sound steel fillertubing. The plastic/rubber item which rots is accessed through a small steel panel located in the trunk flooring near the back of the rear seat. This panel is held down by four self-tapping screws which thread into plastic retainers. Of course, one of the plastic threadings was stripped, so the panel could only be rotated out of the way (easy enough).

The offending part is #3531814 on the diagrams; and fails where the integrated vapor return line connects to the tank. Fingers tell me the line is indeed held in place by a hose clamp of some form; and is, of course, totally inaccessible by any reasonable means: A true "gotcha."

Grandma would probably spend half a grand for the "dealer job" here. I, however, will not.

So, that's the story for anyone who might this way come. Not happy...

 

Sounds like you might have to drop the fuel tank, which means removing the driveshaft. What a bear. I got an EVAP fault code earlier this year, luckily it went away, but I am dreading this repair.

 

@VDonkey:

Congratulations. You are normal.

However, after about three hours of headscratching, fidgeting, fingering, and short-term residence in the trunk, the situation might just be resolved. Unorthodox measures, indeed; but all seems good.

Here's what happened...

Volvo goofed when they put this particular aspect of the fuel tank system together. After cutting off the remnants of the ruptured vapor return tube with a straight razor blade and contorted hand (it'll probably be having nightmares tonight), the fingers reported back something about a metal hose barb pointing at an off-angle toward the rear of the car. This put a persistent stress on the molded neoprene (?) vent tube, eventually rupturing it at the orifice. The tubing in question was still good to excellent elastomerwise; so it really wasn't a matter of rot in this case. Fingers advised this failure will happen again if a new part is installed.

So, following good physician's practice, and, in consideration of the fact that the defective assembly appears to simply allow for a faster/more complete tank fill, I performed a tubectomy on the assembly in question

Here's the stuff I had on hand to do the work:

• 1 really fresh straight razor blade
• 1 M6-1.00 X 20mm gimlet point machine screw (special item; image attached)*
• 1 paint respirator with an activated carbon filter
• High-strength fuelproof epoxy (JB Weld, if you will)
• 3M 4693H Scotchweld
• 1 stout 3/8" neoprene vacuum cap

*Chosen due to its fit and fine-thread "auger" tip which is useful for rotopressing filler material along the fastener journal upon assembly (see notes below). If you're in the US, check your local ACE Hardware for this item; they may just have it in stock.

Here's what I did with these items.


***

NOTE: I cannot vouch for the safety, effectiveness, legality, appropriateness, or morality of the following outlined procedure. I've done this work in the spirit of "cut and try" and will be keeping a keen eye on ALL finished assemblies as time passes.

IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO ANYTHING LIKE THIS, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK; and with your own good sense.

***


First move was to pop off the gas cap; ensuring the tank system was at atmospheric pressure. I then put on the gas mask; and took up my station inside the trunk with blade in hand (you know you're going to love this ).

Using the fresh blade, I cut the ruptured vapor return tube flush as possible back to the tank vapor orifice. This took some doing; as there is a malicious little vapor control valve sitting right in finger's way. Contort hand and cut straight.

Next, I took the residual hose back to a manageable length; and removed the ruptured segment for responsible disposal.

I then solvent-cleaned the gimlet point machine screw (rubbing alcohol should be OK), and covered the end half of the threading with fuelproof epoxy. I took some time and worked the adhesive into and around the thread pitch thoroughly. With a small blob of additional epoxy set on the tip, I slid the screw home into the metal vent orifice taking care not to get any crud in the mix along the way. I twisted the screw clockwise a turn or two in the interest of thoroughly working the epoxy layer along the close inner annulus of the orifice body. I then removed the "little auger"; recoated it, and repeated. Done.

Next, I cleaned and trial-fitted the neoprene vacuum cap into the freshly-cut open vapor hose end, closed end first. It was a sound, tight fit. I thoroughly coated the outside of the closed end and barrel OD of this cap with 4693H, and pushed it home into the vapor hose. Done.

Everything is being left alone to cure/dry with the gas cap off/ajar.

The theory is that the 4693 will provide a substantive and fuel-resistant bond in shear on the neoprene assemblies; while the JB Weld should furnish a good, rigid shear bond/form about the fine-pitch threading of our improvised orifice plug. 4693 has a reputation as one of those adhesives which will see most bonds through a nuclear war.

However, if the "inverted" neoprene cap fitment seems like it's none too sound in the next week or so, it will be replaced by a proper plug arrangement. Again, it's just what I had on hand; and I was literally getting sick of the toxic fuel stench permeating the inside of the car. We'll be keeping things at a half-tank or less until all seems to be working out.

If everything comes about as planned, this will be a good, complete fix...

Remember, use common sense and think outside the box with this one. Volvo goofed rather dangerously when they put this assembly together in the first place, so might as well do what you can within reason.

YMMV and cheers!


QUICK UPDATE:

While the tack strength of 4693 is quite good for the work, digging into the composition of the adhesive compound seems to indicate the material is not very chem resistant after all. Live and learn...

So, I'll probably chicken out tonight and just replace the whole neoprene cap/adhesive idea with a simple rigid plug and hose clamp...




FINAL UPDATE:

The 4693/plug arrangement was pulled as promised; revealing a bond which had the consistency of chewing gum. Needless to say, don't bother with this...

Replaced with 1/2" X 3/8 MIP brass hose barb which was taped and tightly threaded into a 3/8 FIP cap. Secured all in place with a firm full-circle wire spring clamp (use goggles when working with these!).

Car accepts a full-speed fill without stopping part way; and tank is fully pressurized again.

Repair satisfactory, permanent, and complete.