Fuel Rail Bolts Sheared Off
1997 960 Wagon 216K
While trying to repair a fuel leak at the Fuel Pressure Regulator on our new-to-us Volvo 960, we discovered that the bolts that hold the fuel rail to the cylinder head have been sheared off. The fuel rail is being essentially held in place by the miracle of gravity (thank you, Sir Isaac Newton) and the car is running fine. Still, I'm concerned about fixing this so the fuel rail doesn't decide to take leave of its duties...especially when fuel injectors sell for two hundred bucks a piece.
We tried to extract the broken bolts from the threads in the cylinder head to no avail.
I'm thinking that I may be able to attach nuts to the cylinder head (JB Weld or similar method) that would allow the fuel rail to stay snug. I can only imagine how much it would cost to get a machinist to pull the bolts. I'd imagine a Volvo mechanic would recommend replacing the cylinder head (no thanks).
Any ideas? Thanks again for your help.
While trying to repair a fuel leak at the Fuel Pressure Regulator on our new-to-us Volvo 960, we discovered that the bolts that hold the fuel rail to the cylinder head have been sheared off. The fuel rail is being essentially held in place by the miracle of gravity (thank you, Sir Isaac Newton) and the car is running fine. Still, I'm concerned about fixing this so the fuel rail doesn't decide to take leave of its duties...especially when fuel injectors sell for two hundred bucks a piece.
We tried to extract the broken bolts from the threads in the cylinder head to no avail.
I'm thinking that I may be able to attach nuts to the cylinder head (JB Weld or similar method) that would allow the fuel rail to stay snug. I can only imagine how much it would cost to get a machinist to pull the bolts. I'd imagine a Volvo mechanic would recommend replacing the cylinder head (no thanks).
Any ideas? Thanks again for your help.
1992-1997 fuel rails were defective, exactly for the problem you have -- rails are attached to head and not well vibration-isolated. The end up leaking at the end-caps.
In 1998 Volvo introduced a redesigned Rail, which does not touch the head, it's kinda suspended.
The fact that the bolts have sheared off has probably saved your Rail. Soak them in PB blaster, and use bolt extractors (about $ 10 - 15). Use heat if you can.
Rather than buy a new Rail (98-newer), which is about $ 130 at Tasca Volvo, take a look at the new rails (at the dealer). Maybe you can improvise something.
In 1998 Volvo introduced a redesigned Rail, which does not touch the head, it's kinda suspended.
The fact that the bolts have sheared off has probably saved your Rail. Soak them in PB blaster, and use bolt extractors (about $ 10 - 15). Use heat if you can.
Rather than buy a new Rail (98-newer), which is about $ 130 at Tasca Volvo, take a look at the new rails (at the dealer). Maybe you can improvise something.
Isn't applying heat dangerous, being that the head and block on the 960 are aluminum?
If the new design rail doesn't attach to the cylinder head, why do I need to extract the sheared off bolts? Does the new design use the bolt holes?
If the new design rail doesn't attach to the cylinder head, why do I need to extract the sheared off bolts? Does the new design use the bolt holes?
Yes.
I found a fuel rail from a 98 S90 for $40, including the FPR and fuel injectors. I think it's a great deal. Volvo 6-cylinder ORANGE injectors, fuel rail, FPR (Item ID: 101584, End Time : N/A) - Performance And Repair Parts For Sale
I see from the picture how the new one mounts. It looks like a much better design.
The cylinder head has three bolt holes, as does the 98 fuel rail. On my 960's cylinder head, the the two end holes have the sheared off bolts and the center hole is unused. How bad would it be to only attach the center bolt? It's got to be better than what I have now, right?
I know that it is best to have all three, but I'm concerned that I may not be able to get the old bolts out.
I see from the picture how the new one mounts. It looks like a much better design.
The cylinder head has three bolt holes, as does the 98 fuel rail. On my 960's cylinder head, the the two end holes have the sheared off bolts and the center hole is unused. How bad would it be to only attach the center bolt? It's got to be better than what I have now, right?
I know that it is best to have all three, but I'm concerned that I may not be able to get the old bolts out.
I found a fuel rail from a 98 S90 for $40, including the FPR and fuel injectors. I think it's a great deal. Volvo 6-cylinder ORANGE injectors, fuel rail, FPR (Item ID: 101584, End Time : N/A) - Performance And Repair Parts For Sale
I see from the picture how the new one mounts. It looks like a much better design.
The cylinder head has three bolt holes, as does the 98 fuel rail. On my 960's cylinder head, the the two end holes have the sheared off bolts and the center hole is unused. How bad would it be to only attach the center bolt? It's got to be better than what I have now, right?
I know that it is best to have all three, but I'm concerned that I may not be able to get the old bolts out.
I see from the picture how the new one mounts. It looks like a much better design.
The cylinder head has three bolt holes, as does the 98 fuel rail. On my 960's cylinder head, the the two end holes have the sheared off bolts and the center hole is unused. How bad would it be to only attach the center bolt? It's got to be better than what I have now, right?
I know that it is best to have all three, but I'm concerned that I may not be able to get the old bolts out.
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boarders123
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Jun 23, 2012 09:16 PM




