its strange, if i drive it around town, it runs great....only after the 1st 20-30 minutes do i get the shudder...and rough idle....

 

Camshaft Pos Sensor is the hardest sensor to get to. Besides, multiple sensor faults is never their fault.

You gotta look elsewhere. First do the DIY tool. It cost $ 2 to build it. Then get a digital voltmeter (about $ 15). Spend another $ 15 and get a Vacuum / Fuel Pressure Gauge.

Next: Go thru the troubleshooting checklist. Get it here.

Does the shudder happen when coasting or accelerating?

 

Miley said it happens when he comes off the gas or when punching it.

@ Miley: A compression test gauge will cost around $15 I think. I know the feeling on getting nickled and dimed on tools but I promise you, they are an investment and a lot cheaper than taking the car to a shop.

 

this is true.....ive been reading a lot in here.....its like other folks issue, a fake rev limiter at 4000rpms, and the rough idle, and the intermittent shutter inbetween on and off the throttle over 55 mph.....if i get back on the gas...its fine, or if i just let off the gas all the way...its fine...but just coasting at any one speed.....it bucks...

most people had the CPS replaced....and fixed it....i just need to get this ****er off!

 

UPDATE:
got the bolt off....changed the senser....rigged the pigtail so it was using the better one, and it worked....no more shudder......

now that thats gone i can diagnose the other issues....clearly.

the car runs great, but i still have the rough idle......but only after ive beeen driving for about 20 or so minutes....the #3 cylinder is still the issue i think...the pigtail on the coil is a bit old....and may be expanding/contracting with the heat....i noticed the connectors do back out when i plug it in....so i pushed them on manually to get them on good....

next job...replacing the bad connection...il update when thats done.

 

its a pain that all these little issues cause such big problems.....this car otherwise is great..... sensitive bastard tho....like a big strong guy that cries during movies....

 

LOL. The sad thing is that these problems were mounting on the PO. Once you knock them out you'll be cruising. I really miss my 960.

 

ok, new lower rad hose, ran codes again....and got these..
P0340
P0303
P0201
P0203
P0123

cleared them, and the CEL went off...and stayed off....until i let it idle long enough to heat up and make sure i had the cooling system full.....

then it started idling rough again...and the CEL came back....

im gonna go have the codes checked again...and see what stayed...

 

ok just went and ran it again....

the only one that came back was the P0303
which is what i thought....thats good, now i just need to sort out why...

wiring, pigtail...i hope...

just in case, what is the usual PSI i should have when i do a compression test?
its at about 110, 000 miles.....

 

whats the general rule on removing the air pump?....i want it out...i live in Florida..I dont need it...and its loud, and dumb.....lol

can i just make a delete plate for the valve cover?...im sure ill need to plug that hole.

 

Is there an easy way to replace the drive shaft center support....the rubber is old and it knocks when leaving a light....the rubber is allowing the shaft to move too freely and it knocks because of the downward motion.....

EASY FIX?....

the bearing seems fine, no wining/whirring and it spins freely...id just like to replace the rubber support....

how-to anyone?

 

If you pull the pump, you will have to live with a CEL.

Not sure what compression should be but the high side would likely be near 175. The low side would be 140ish. Whatever you get on all cylinders, they should be with 10% of each other. You may have numbers like 155, 160, 150, 155, 155, 150. The manual I have states that you should PULL THE SINGLE NEGITIVE WIRE FROM THE IGNITION COIL, ALL SPARK PLUGS REMOVED AND THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN (failure to do so could damage the ecu). Someone also suggested to me to pull the fuel relay so the fuel pump would not pump gas into the motor through the injectors.

 

thank you for the tips!!!!

 

still idles ****ed up.....i replaced the pigtail on the #3 cylinder....and same thing...seems a bit better, but still after 20 or so minutes of driving the idle gets crappy....misfire still...#3....

although as soon as its under load...IE..i leave a light i can feel it all at once pick back up and fire smooth...so while driving i get no misfire....only at idle..low RPM...does this sound like a head gasket??, as i am still getting pressure in my cooling system....

i hope not...

 

still havent done a compression test....getting on that...

 

If the compression test is good I would swap the coil pack and plug with #5 to see if the spark plug is bad. I never checked my compression but mine use to misfire every once in a while, like twice per year while sitting idle. It did that until I changed my plugs.

 

already swapped coils....with #2's.....same issue, same cylinder....maybe ill just get better plugs....i bought cheap ones...didnt think much of it then....now im thinking it was a bad idea....

 

im also wondering about the consistency....never at cold start up...and always after 20 mins...every other time....smooth like butter

 

I would look into 2 more things -- bad injector. Try swapping them.

Second: Idle air control valve -- try cleaning this.

 

ill get on that.....thank you..