Hello folks.

Well, after 21 years it seems as though our 960 t'stat is stuck partway open. Not being one to let moss grow as the days get colder, I went out and spent $23 on a spiffy new custom deluxe popper; complete with the coveted "jiggle-pin" thingy (could've saved 13 bucks right there).

Summing up the practical situation, I also addressed things with days of penetrant (nothing is rusty, but Murphy will have his way) and my trusty mechanical hand impact sporting a T-40 bit. Skilled in the fine art of NOT breaking things, I stopped my irresistibly successful loosening routine before yaking the housing clean off the block. And the people said, "This just ain't right."

In case anybody still needs to hear it, these screws are WAAAAAAY too tight for their dainty Torx head geometry. Seems the buggers at Porsche set this assembly up to bring in some green; as there is no way under the sun these crappy little T-40s could have ever been installed this tight during assembly. Methinks Locktite Red might be at the bottom of all this...

At any rate, a quick spin about has found other hapless souls in this predicament; and stories of locking pliers, hacksaws, Dremel tools, torches, chisels, broken parts, and general mayhem seem to be par for the course. Apart from a simple drilled decapitation of the offending screws, any ideas as to how one might get this moving?

Finally, any idea as to torque specs and are these truly M7-1.0 x 30? Got correct (normal) replacements for them on-hand, if indeed so...

Thanks again!

 

i used my house hold impact drill and slowly just backed them out. :/ worse comes to worse drill out ans retap.

 

Thanks, jands

 

Cubic Curiosity:

Dear God I hope that it's not Locktite red.

The only thing that can break it is heat. I don't remember what the temperature the screw or bolt has to be heated to, but it's fairly high.

I would get one of those butane solder guns (or a creme brulee torches), and heat each bolt up for a few minutes. The tip is quite accurate.

Once each one is heated, I would try backing them out that way.

Heat is your friend!


Dave Riedle

 

Back again.

Unfortunately, I couldn't get hold of a small electric impact for the work. Would've needed to mooch the tool from a neighbor; but this wasn't in the cards as he's an old heavy equipment guy who insists on "helping" whenever he sees the opportunity. Past experiences here have included rambunctious 2# hammering on fully-loaded spring compressors and vise-grip antics with serpentine belt pulleys.

While pulling a Micronox-type torch into play seems enticing, I needed to pass due to my overall yutziness and the likelihood of creating a festive holiday bonfire and weenie roast for the local boys in red. Last car fire was with a spontaneously-exploding 3800 Series II which went up in flames after some plastic intake manifold excitement while I watched from the driver's seat (still have nightmares about that)...

SO, I decided to call in expert reinforcements (the wife) for a wild shot which I reasoned could work (well, it worked here; but YMMV)

Materials:

1. 3/8 drive T-40 bit (new and sharp: the cheap Husky variety was OK)
2. 1/2 > 3/8 adapter
3. 1/2 x 20" extension
4. 1/2" breaker bar
5. 3/4" x 5' EMT conduit
6. one (1) pair high-grip work/garden gloves
7. two (2) scrawny Volvo owners

Procedure:

Assemble hand tools and arrange help per common sense. Place T-40 bit into fastener head pattern; and hold alignment firmly. Have spouse push conduit over breaker bar handle. Finish all necessary bickering; and get everyone on the same page.

While strictly maintaining tool alignment with the T-40 pattern, tighten grip on the extension and apply massive and continuous directed downforce by every possible contortion into the fastener head. THEN have spouse begin to apply continuous CCW torque through the Newtonian masterpiece.

If all goes well:

CRACK - CRACK - loose.


Result:

One crappy T-40 pulled and tossed without excessive drama. Repeat once more for complete relief.

TIP: On reassembly, replace these nasty little screws with some normal Class 8.8 M7-1.0 x 30 bolts and good-fitting SSFWs from the Home Depot or wherever. IIRC, the Home Depot's bolts (562884) are about 50 cents each; and should be on-hand in the specialty hardware drawers.


Inspection of the original bolts revealed a full helping of Locktite Blue on the fastener shank, as evidently applied during initial engine assembly. Combined with the fine pitch of these M7-1.0 thread patterns, this looks to be the cause of so many nightmares and broken parts throughout the ages.

FWIW, the original thermostat looked new when pulled. After two decades, it must've developed a defective motor capsule; as the (identical) replacement has since restored normal cooling system operation.

And that's it. Hope this helps someone else's day...



Cheers --

 

Yup, those bolts need to go and get hex head. Then coat the threads with anti-seize or grease or something to make it easy next time.

 

awesome! happy they came right out! i know i kept my T40 screws cause that seems to be the only thing not rusted in this car lately. lol